Jdawg82

It changes with the rpms. It isnt too loud but definetly noticeable. I hit a jump and when I landed it started. I am also hoping it just the impeller however I already replaced it with a pro design metal one. I am running yamalube mixed 32:1 and bel rays gearsaver for the tranny. I have a bran new top end bored .80 with wiesco pistons. After putting it together I had 130 psi of compression. I will check again now after the knocking has occured. I lost no power whatsoever.

I have a knocking noise coming from what appears to be my clutch cover or right side cylinder. At first I thought it could be detonation but I was running straight 110 octane with +4 timing. I set the timing back to stock and it was still there. So then I drained the tank and threw in some 93 octane still there. I am just wondering where to start to look for the problem or what it could be. Should I pull the clutch cover first or the jugs?

I just need the silencers for the t5s would you do 120 shipped for them if willing to seperate?

How much do you charge for a -2 swingarm?

No its cool I know exactly what you mean. The fact that you were even willing to split them up I appreciate. Let me know if you find anyone to buy just the head pipes.

I would not even bother with an extended swingarm with just pipes and a filter. You would also have to get a new shock to accomodate the longer swingarm.

Ill pass on the silencers, I have fmf silencers on my t5 head pipes its a wierd combo. I did notice that you have a milled head that I am interested in. How much would you want for that?

Pictures did not come up. Would you accept 125 shipped? I can paypal you immediately.

I guess it would really depend on your pipe but the banshee is definetly lacking in the low end. I would advance the timing and gain some low end power. The loss in top end is not even noticeable with +4 timing. I just dremeled out the holes 4.5mm on the stator plate to get +4 timing, best free mod I've ever done. While I was at it I also ported the reed cages.

Lol yea I work at radioshack I will check tommorrow when I go in.

Would you be willing to sell just the silencers and stingers? I already have the toomey head pipes.

With the milled head would I have to run race gas?

Makes perfect sense and something probaly can be rigged up for a few dollars and a trip to radio shack for an led. What does a banshee run off 12v or 6v? So the light is going to be negatively trigged when the shift drum comes into contact with the screw on the cover.

It ended up being a filthy air cleaner. It was caked in mud and starving my motor for air. Cleaned it up and all is well. I moved the needle to the second clip from the blunt end. Can running too lean of a needle damage your engine the same way running too lean on the main can? I have ported cylinders, weisco pistons, toomey t5s, +4 timing plate mod, boysen reeds, stock box with no lid and a uni filter. I know that the only way to really tell is to do a plug chop however I just want to see what you guys think about my current carb settings.

What jets and needle postion are you running? I have pretty much the same mods and am running 340 mains with the needle on the second clip at 1,000 feet above sea level.

Is there a way we can rig up a light for neutral? I have a hard time finding it and I already installed a modified shift star. Usually I have to just slowly let out the clutch and give it some gas to check if it is in neutral. It would be nice to know that it is in neutral via the light.

My banshee spits and sputters when it is cold from 1/8 throttle all the way to 3/4 but after that it clears up. When it is fully warmed up it runs awesome anywhere on the powerband or throttle postion. Do I have to adjust my air screws and pilot or is there something else I need to take into consideration? I have toomey t5s with fmf silencers, a woods port job, +4 advanced timing, and weisco prolite pistons. My compression is damn near perfect at 130 psi with the stock head at 1,000 feet.

Taken directly from toomey.com: "Please start by screwing in the cable adjuster on the handlebar clutch lever all the way so there is the maximum slop in the cable. Next, loosen the lock-nut for the adjusting screw in the center of the clutch pressure plate. Now, as you look down at the top of the engine, you must find the clutch actuating arm, under the left carb. (Where the clutch cable attaches) You will notice there is a little pointer at the end of this arm. Also, there is a mark cast into the top engine case. These are the alignment marks, and you line them up by turning the adjuster screw in the middle of the clutch pressure plate with a Phillips screwdriver, while at the same time lightly pushing the arm with your fingers counter clockwise until a slight resistance is felt. This takes up all the slack in the push-rod system. When you have the marks lined up properly, tighten the adjuster lock-nut securely (0.9 kgm or 5.8 ft lbs.). Now, adjust the cable free play at the lever so that there is about 3/8 to 1/2 inch of play at the end of the lever, and secure the adjuster with the lock ring. Pull the clutch lever a few times to insure everything works right and check the alignment marks once more just to be sure. Now, before you re-install the cover, check the condition of the water-pump drive gear (and oil pump gear, on the RZ. There is no oil pump on the Banshee,- it's pre-mix). You are checking for cracks or broken teeth, and insuring that the circlip that retains the plastic gears is still on the shaft. If you have any doubts regarding the condition of any of these parts, replace them. The only way you will find out they have failed, is when your engine suddenly seizes due to no coolant flow (over heating) or no oil flow on the RZ. Now, re-install the clutch cover with a new gasket, and a little grease on the coolant pipe o-ring, and kick shaft. Just before the cover goes on all the way, be sure to mesh the water pump gears with the gears on the end of the crank by just wiggling the cover up and down, or if need be, turning the engine over a little with the kick-starter lever. Do not force anything. Properly aligned parts assemble smoothly. Next, start all of the case screws a couple of turns, all the while insuring the gasket is in place, then tighten the two longer ones that go through the dowel pins first, then the rest in a crisscross pattern until snug. Then, torque to 1.0 kgm (7.2 ft.lbs.) evenly. Now you can put on the Kick-starter lever."

Any where before the point where the two arrows meet there should be no resistance. Anywhere after that point there should be resistance as the clutch disengages. A clunking when the bike is cold is normal. If it does it when the bike is warm you should worry. As long as you can hold the clutch in when the bike is in gear and it doesnt stall your clutch should be alright.

I bought ported cylinders off ebay and they have .20 overbore blaster pistons in them. This equates to .100 over that my current banshee cylinders are at. I just ordered .100 over weisco banshee pistons. The bike ran crappy with the blaster pistons in them I hope these new pistons fix the problem. After .100 over do I have to get them resleeved? If I do get them resleeved do I have to have the intake ported again?

That just what vitos told me so I dont know either. I didnt notice any unusual wear marks on the head or on the tops of the pistons so I should be fine. As long as there are no gouges or imperfections on the inside of my cylinder walls I should be good to go with new pistons correct? I am obviously going to hone them first and I checked to make sure they were within tolerances. What pistons would you reccomend for a ported morted, with toomey t5s and no airbox lid bored .100 over?

So if it is .100 over what modifications have to made to the head in order for the pistons to work right?

I bought some pistons and cylinders off ebay for my banshee and the bike didnt run right. I tore the bike down and measured the pistons and they measured 66.5 mm. I was told that the bike wasn't running right because the head had to be rechambered to accept the bigger size piston. Also if the pistons are 66.5mm is the bore size of the cylinder .100 over? What size pistons should I order?

Thanks a lot. I have heard that art makes pro-x pistons. So if I order piston rings for a pro-x piston it should fit right?