jsekula

Do you still have the 17 cc domes? Are they for a base 3500 or big bore? What shape are they in? How much?

New Price: $3450.00 [email protected] 727-842-2766

Another Last... If you better pics, email me. Joe

Another

Selling 1987 Banshee. I'm looking to get something a little slower to cruz the trails with the wife. I am the second owner and have a title. I rebuilt the machine two years ago... I am talking complete. Powder coated in gloss black, blue, and yellow. Maier Plastic is new. Works shocks in the front, stock in back. The engine is very different... I am running a Grayton Racing 2 into 1 intake with a 35mm Khein Air Striker Racing Carb and K&N filter. Exhaust is a Dynaport 2 into 1 and sound a lot different than a normal Banshee. Had the cylinders port and polished by a tuner in Arizona, took forever but was worth it (I cannot remember the size he bored them to). Case was split, all seals replaced. Coolhead with 17cc domes yielding about 125 to 130 psi. After I put everything together, had it at Kinetics in New Port Richey to do the finishing tuning, their guess was about 60hp. Here is so of the real trick stuff... I am running a Dyna FS ignition which can be remapped with a laptop. Four different curves are built in and can be changed with external dip switches. Tuning the engine now is a piece of cake. On the handle bars I am running a Digatron Computer system which tracks EGT on both cylinders, RPMs, and MPH. The display gives instant information to you plus everything can be replayed or dumped to a laptop which graphs out everything. This system is used in shifter carts. I am sure I am missing something... I've had this Shee for 12 years but I am 45 and desire something a bit slowerrrr... Prices: $3,750.00; and I have certainly put a lot more than that into it... email me at [email protected] or 727-842-2766 if interested or you want better pics... Will deliver 50 miles from New Port Richey, FL

Yeah, I think your right, except I cannot get 7 to 9 inches from the piston. I check with a noncontact temperature gun and right the Y was the hotest. Ofcourse, the pipe heats up faster there since the exhaust combines. I figure on doing jetting by the plugs of course and then compare it against the exhaust temps; that will be the safest way to go. I scanned the graph after I printed it out... Thanks, Joe By the way, where did you place your speed sensor?

I need some 16 or 17cc domes... Thanks, Joe

When talking to Doug, his Harley does the same; the front is cooler than the back. One cylinder is basically leading. In V-8 engines, outer cylinders run cooler and there is no ill effects. Now sure, if your running two carbs on a Banshee, you could tune this out. I am not worried because the way it runs (great). Another thing I noticed with Banshees when pulling the head, one cylinder does run hotter since there is less carbon build up in the dome.

Banchetta, I hear you but I am not worried. If I had an air leak, I would see a lean condition on one plug, usually the side the leak is on. Another indication would be hard starting since you would be pulling air through the leak and not a charge through the carb. I spoke with Doug from Digatron who advised this is not uncommon. Here is some data out of the engine... Black is RPMs, Red and Green are cylinder temperatures. This was around the yard three times... The max peaks are 8010 rpms, left cylinder @ 706 degs F and the right @ 380 degs F. The only thing I can come up with is the left cylinder engine case is the stator side which is dry and the right is the clutch which is wet because of the oil bath which should cool that side of the case. It is just a wild guess...

Bottom end was split and completely redone. The weird thing is when the engine is cooled down to ambient temp, both probes read exactly the same.

probes are 2" from top of exhaust flange inserted 1" which is 1/4" past center per Digatron.

Compression is 127 on each cylinder and no difference in plug color.

OK, This is interesting... I installed a Digatron unit on my Banshee. I am using two exhaust gas temperature probes. Everything is brand new. The probes are two inches from the end of the exhaust flange. When everything is cold, not running or whatever the air temp is, both probes read exactly the same. BUT, when the engine is running, one runs hotter than the other. About 150-200 degrees difference. Sitting on the bike, the left side cylinder is the hotter one. Any ideas? As for how it runs, very fast. Some other info: I am running a Graydon Proline 2 into 1 intake with one 35mm PWK A/S and a Dynoport 2 into 1 exhaust. Give me your thoughts or expertise... Joe

Graydon Proline intake is easy to install, one nice thing moving the carb further back which seems to help protect the air filter more. 35mm PWK A/S is the only way to go. This setup moves a lot of air... in Florida when I ride, the manifold gets super cold and sweats; cooling the charge into the engine. Also you can run V-force reeds with not problems. You cannot on early model Trinity intakes.

I have one and I am pleased with it...

It has been something I have been looking into... It is hard to jet my Shee around here, no long smooth straightaway to open it up to check jetting... This is where Digatron comes into play... This is what it can do: Engine RPM (Tachometer), Jackshaft RPM, Speed (MPH or KPH) and up to four temperatures. Timing with an infrared or magnetic sensor. All functions record 20 times per second. Times displayed to the 100th of a second. Maximum readings of all functions. Minimum readings of RPM and Speed. Full hour of datalogging and detailed playback. Free P.C. Downloadable software. Features: Custom instrument configuration, charts, graphs and log book. USB and serial computer input. Has anyone here used one? What exhaust temperatures are you shooting for? 1100 to 1250 degrees? It looks like a great way to setup jetting. Give some thoughts and advice if you have one. Thanks, Joe Here is a link to Digatron: http://www.digatronusa.com/products-atvs.shtml

Graydon Proline... Here is a link: http://www.graydonproline.com/ I like it plus there is never a problem with V-Force reeds. They with a 35mm PWK A/S carb.

You know... Your gonna have problems with compression!!!!! Have you checked it with a gauge? I am running Stage 3 port jugs and 22cc domes at sea level; my compression is 105 psi... My guess is your compression is about 100 psi for Michigan, about 500-600 ft above sea level. Your machine is gonna run like crap and foul plugs a lot. I suggest doing this: 1. Get a compression gauge and use it. 2. Change domes to around 19cc which should yield you about 140 psi. 3. Do no go over 160 psi on pump gas. 4. Remember temperature!!! Colder air... the more dense. if you shot for 160 during warmer weather, you'll be way above that when it gets cold. 5. ALWAYS Check your jetting after any changes... We have about the same setup... I am going to 20cc to get me to about 130 psi. (2cc less @ 12 psi per cc) If you know where you at with 22cc domes, you can figure on gaing about 9-10 psi per 1 cc change. Use the chart along with a compression gauge... Joe

Here is a link to a good chart for you on dome sizing... Joe http://www.thebansheezone.com/Bansheezone/CoolheadChart.htm

Piece of cake... hook up a small clear hose on each bleeder fitting. Only open a fitting to release/bleed air when the hose is submerged in brake fluid(use a small bottle). Tightening the bleeder fitting while holding the brake depressed. Go back and forth between the two sides until the fluid is clear with no air bubbles, just make sure you keep the reservior full.

Try adding some gas directly into the carbs. Hold the throttle wind open, use a small hose or straw. Fill it with premixed gas, put your thumb over the othe end and stick it in to the carb and let it drain inside (kinda like sex ) Now try and kickstarting it... If it starts and then dies... you got a fuel problem. If it won't start, it's electrical. Start with the plugs first. My guess would be your carbs... another thing that worked for me if the machine has sat for awhile... Turn off your kill switch and key. Cover the intake with something that will be air tight. Pull the choke and kick the machine over a few times. The carbs should be wet with gas since you are pulling into them under vacuum. Take off whatever you used to cover the intake, turn the switches on and kick the machine now. Should fire right up. Remember, do not hold the trottle wide open when kickstarting. This reduces vaccum and makes it harder to start... Let me know how it goes... Joe

Check you numbers... You should be at 145 @ 3000 w/ 19cc domes. http://www.thebansheezone.com/Bansheezone/CoolheadChart.htm If you don't have one, get a compression gauge to verify your numbers and save some grief... your probablly about 154 @ 1500 Otherwise I agree with Toomey Banshee

I run a Dyna FS on my Shee. It's reliable and a nice fat spark. The different curves are great to experiment with, and usually you will find one of the four your bike likes. If you know what your doing, you can always remap it. One of the best things is no advance key to break, another is retaining your lights and not worrying about charging a battery. It has been worth the cost to me.

What elevation are you atl? About a 1000... What are you running for gas?

Running 22cc domes with a Coolhead, my compression is only 105 psi on both cylinders. My cylinders are Stage 3 ported and this is a freshly rebuilt broken-in engine. Normally 22cc domes yield around 145 psi and 19cc would take you to 181cc at sea level, an increase of 36 psi. Sea Level 1000 2000 3000 4000 5000 Feet 16cc 217 psi 176 psi 170 psi 163 psi 157 psi 151 psi 17cc 205 psi 170 psi 163 psi 157 psi 151 psi 145 psi 18cc 193 psi 163 psi 157 psi 151 psi 145 psi 139 psi 19cc 181 psi 157 psi 151 psi 145 psi 139 psi 133 psi 20cc 169 psi 151 psi 145 psi 139 psi 133 psi 127 psi 21cc 157 psi 145 psi 139 psi 133 psi 127 psi 121 psi 22cc 145 psi 139 psi 133 psi 127 psi 121 psi 115 psi Stock 130 psi 124 psi 118 psi 112 psi 106 psi 100 psi Could one assume that if I went to 19cc compression would go up to 141 psi? How many psi compression can you run on pump gas (92 or 93 octane)? How much compression will a stock crank take?