95blazer

This is a clean 1992 Yamaha Banshee. It was completely rebuilt in the summer of 2004. The list of goodies consists of: Pro-circuit pipes and stainless silencers, flywheel lightened and head milled by Duncan Racing, V-Force reeds, Ricky Stator 200 watt stator with adjustable timing plate, urethane intakes, Pro-flow kit with K&N filter, twist throttle, Alba Pro-Comp front suspension with Elka Dune Edition Dual-Rate shocks, Denton steering stabilizer, Works Suspension rear shock with remote reservoir, ITP sand stars in the rear and razors up front, aluminum wheels, Lazer Star lights with handlebar clamp, clear Radflo coolant lines, sandblasted cylinders and head, orange and black plastics, Gun Metal Gray Frame, billet grille, aluminum AC front bumper and 6-pack rack, Nerf Bars, and LED tail lights and LED accent light on motor. This bike will make someone very happy. I have personally owned it for 12 years and have been very meticulous with the maintanence of this machine. If you add up the cost of the modifications alone you are almost at my asking price, this is a sreaming deal on a screaming bike. If you have any questions feel free to email or PM me. Derek

I agree the pricing must change depending on what region you are in. If you look at the cycle trader here, the price I am asking is right in line.

I didn't ask what you thought it was worth did I???

This is a clean 1992 Yamaha Banshee. It was completely rebuilt in the summer of 2004. The list of goodies consists of: Pro-circuit pipes and stainless silencers, flywheel lightened and head milled by Duncan Racing, V-Force reeds, urethane intakes, Pro-flow kit with K&N filter, twist throttle, Alba Pro-Comp front suspension with Elka Dune Edition Dual-Rate shocks, Denton steering stabilizer, Works Suspension rear shock with remote reservoir, ITP sand stars in the rear and razors up front, aluminum wheels, Lazer Star lights with handlebar clamp, clear Radflo coolant lines, sandblasted cylinders and head, Maier orange plastics, billet grille, aluminum AC front bumper and 6-pack rack, and LED tail lights. This bike is my baby and I am only selling it in order to build a buggy. The bike is located in San Diego, I am asking $4800 obo. Pictures If you want some more pictures or details feel free to PM me.

Will you take $160 shipped for the stator cover? Thanks, Derek

I had a problem during my last trip to the dunes, actually it is a problem I have been trying to diagnose during the last 3 trips to the dunes. After a 20-30 minute ride my bike would start to miss like crazy from about 1/2 to full throttle. I would then throw new plugs in and it would run fine for about 20 minutes and then do the same thing. Normally if I let it cool down it would start up and run fine until it got hot again. I had replaced the coil, stator, reeds, messed with jetting endlessly all in hopes of solving this problem. I finally got fed up and took it to get it dynoed and jetted correctly once and for all. I picked it up from the dyno, took it to Glamis and what does it do after 20-30 minutes, you guessed it. After messing with the main jets, and needles some more without any results, a buddy in my group said I should reduce the plug gap. So I pulled the plugs that were missing like crazy and reduced the gap from .028" to .023", I fired it up and it ran perfectly for the rest of the weekend. This was a problem they had encountered before, hence the suggestion. It turned out that my combination of 160psi+ compression, combined with Slower burning VP C-12, +4 advanced timing, and the banshee's notoriously weak ignition, was allowing the spark to be extinguished before it would ignite. Just somethng to think about, it sure as hell made my weekend!!! Derek

Well I just completed my mods and decided to let Alba dial it in for me. When I took it there I knew it was jetted way rich just to be safe. My mods are as follows: Pro circuit pipes, pro-flow kit w/ K&N, airbox lid removed, V-force delta 2 reeds, head milled for race gas, timing advanced 4 degrees, lightened flywheel, running VP C-12 race fuel. I am very happy with the results and will test it out on Thursday at Glamis!!! Let me know what you think of these numbers #1- 370 mains, stk needle 4th clip, 30 pilot, air screw 2 turns out---This gave me a max of 46.27 hp at 8200rpms. This also gave me 39,45hp at 9300 rpms. #2 300 mains, Alba needle 4th clip, 30 pilot, air screw 1 turn out---This gave me a max of 49.29 hp at 9300 rpms Derek

I just purchased and installed some delta 2 v-force reeds, and now I am going to get rid of my K&N clamp-ons. I am going to reinstall an airbox and get a pro flow kit w/ a K&N. My question is will I need to change my jetting, or do both systems provide about the same amount of airflow? Thanks, Derek

Thanks for the responses. When I assembled the motor I used Yamabond 4 between the intake and reed cage, I think it is working fine. I will just use a gasket when I replace the reeds. I don't think it is an air leak because both plugs look identical. Sometimes it will run great but at others it will sort of miss during acceleration, I think it may be starving for fuel. I am going to run richer jets and see if it affects the plugs and solves my acceleration problem. I will probably get the V-force reeds, since it seems to be a unanimous opinion that they are the best. What differences can I expect from them? Also what is the best and easiest to find tool to measure the float height? Finally, I would love to have only one carb to deal with. How would the trinity 2 into 1 kit work in the sand? Would I want the 33 or 35 keihin carb? How does this kit work in conjunction with v-force reeds? BY the way if anyone has this setup for sale please let me know!!! Thanks, Derek

I have come up with a few questions as I've been trying to dial my bike in. 1. I have the UPP intakes, and was wondering how I should be sealing them to the reed cage? I know a gasket goes between the reed cage and cylinder mating surface, and that on a stock intake there is a rubber seal which eliminates the need for a gasket between the intake and reed cage. But on the UPP intake there is no such rubber seal. What is everyone else doing with these, are you just using another gasket? 2.What is everyone's opinion on the best reed for use with the stock cage? Or should I just get the V-Forces, for an extra $100 or so. I have not ported my motor, am using stock carbs, running about 160psi compression, and running race gas. 3. Is reading plugs any different for a motor running VP C-12, than a motor running pump gas. For example does the desired color range differ at all. 4. Currently I am running a 350 main and am using the 4th clip on the stock needle, pro circuit pipes, 160psi compression, k&n clamp-ons, race gas, +4 timing advance, and boyesen reeds. I always ride at Glamis which is at sea level and in about 70 degree temps. The plug makes me think the bike is running lean, but 350 seems to me to be a pretty big main for my mods. Is it possible that I would need to run 370's or 380's? Let me know what you guys are running at Glamis or with similar mods. Sorry for all of the questions. Thanks, Derek

Yeah mine was only doing it after a 20-30 minute ride but it was around 90-95 degrees out. I hope the coil is the problem, it would be an easy fix. Derek

Okay I tested the coil. I got .4 ohms resistance between the primarys, when I tried to check the secondary resistance nothing registered. I also trimmed the ends of the secondary leads and tested again once again there was nothing. Am I correct in assuming that this means the coil is toast? My question how did my bike run at all when there is absolutely no secondary resistance? Thanks, Derek

The carbs are clean, and there is plenty of fuel in the float bowls when this happens. I do run a fuel filter which is brand new, however I have run an Identical one for years without a problem. I am hoping it is the coil, I plan to test it within the next few days. It also could very well be the stator, which has not been replaced, I will check it also. Thanks

Come on guys somebody must know if a bad coil will do this!!! Also will a CDI ever act intermittently like this? Finally it seems to only do it when it gets hot, so how do I test the electrical components for this condition. Thanks, Derek

The fuel should be good, it is 2 week old VP C-12. It runs great most of the time, therefore I doubt it is a fuel problem. After doing some searching I found posts stating that the coil may start to act up after getting hot. This problem did only occur when the bike was hot, so I think this may be the problem. Has anyone else experienced this, if so what happened? Could this be the CDI acting up, or do these either work or not work? Thanks, Derek

It is removed and has been for years.

Okay I finally got my shee out to Glamis and it ran great except for this weird problem. It would be running fine in the middle of a dune ride and then all of a sudden start cutting out and I would really have to work the throttle to keep it running and moving through the dunes. I shut it off once right after this happened and it wouldn't start, then after kicking for a while it started and ran great for the rest of the day. And then today we went for another ride we made it to Oldsmobile hill it was probably a 25 minute ride, it ran great all the way there. On the way back to camp it started to cut out again for about 2-3 minutes, once again I kept it running and all of a sudden it was fine. And then less than a mile from camp it started to do it again it was worse this time I could hardly even move, but again fixed itself and ran great by the time I made it back. I have no idea what could cause this, but to me it seems like it maybe an electrical issue. I say this because it feels like I am turning the kill switch on and off when this happens. The last time I stopped completely and it was still doing it so it has nothing to do with moving. Any guesses??? Here are my mods: .070 over pro-x pistons, head milled for race gas, K&N clamp-ons, pro circuit pipes, boost bottle, lightened flywheel, stock carbs with 350 mains, 30 pilots, and 3rd clip on needle, twist throttle with idle kit, UPP intakes, boyesen reeds, running VP C-12 mixed 36:1. Thanks, Derek

I have MMF nerf bars on my shee and I need to get some black nets for them. I can't find anything on these bars, has MMF gone out of business. It seems like I am stuck with nerfs that I can't get parts for. If anyone knows anything about MMF please let me know. Thanks, Derek

I found a set of like new 20x11x10 sand sharks mounted on 10x10 douglas wheels for real cheap. How would these work on my shee with pipes, intake, milled head, and lightened flywheel? Right now I have a set of sand skate II's on 8x8 wheels but they have seen better days. Let me know what you think. Thanks

Just as I suspected the pilot jet was clogged. Man it s running so sweet now, what a beautiful sound. Now I just need to install my new fenders, suspension, grab bar, and lights and I will be ready for the Glamis season!!! Thanks for all of your advice, I am so glad it is running perfect now. Thanks, Derek

Well I got it started today after finding a huge air leak at my boost bottle. It seems the UPP intakes don't seal very well to the boost bottle with the stock clamps. So I got some hose clamps and problem solved, the motor lost less than half a pound of pressure in 6 minutes during the leakdown test. It was also flooded from all of the kicking yesterday, so I dried everything out and it now starts 1st kick. Now the right cylinder is not firing at low rpms and kicks in at the high rpms, where it also backfires and misses. The left cylinder is running perfect. Both carbs are jetted identical with the airscrews 1.5 turns out, they are also synched. I am going to check the pilot jet and replace the reeds tommorow, hopefully that does the trick!!! Thanks, Derek

I have this same problem right now. Wouldn't swapping the plug wires mess up the timing? Derek

Thanks for the offer!!! I might take you up on it, but first I want to give it a serious go myself. It has to be something simple, I mean it seems like I have checked everything. Hopefully when I get back at it tomorrow, it fires right up. There is a chance that when I had the carb slides installed backwards, it got flooded and just needs some time to dry out. I guess I will find out tomorrow.... Thanks, Derek

The tors has been disconnected for years including the black box. The plugs are wet, but not as wet as I would have thought. I really don't want to pull start it, because it is a fresh topend and the rings have not had time to seat or had any premix lube the cylinder walls. I did however oil the cylinders and piston at install, so don' think kicking it will do any damage. Thanks, Derek

Okay here we go it has been a frustrating day I am almost done with a full rebuild of my shee, today was the day it was supposed to start, but it was a no go. I just rebuilt the top end with .0070 over pro-x pistons, cylinders bored by duncan, head milled for race gas by duncan. I purchased some used carbs because mine had stripped threads at the caps. I also had the flywheel lightened by duncan. I disassembled and cleaned the carbs with carb cleaner and rejetted them as follows 30 pilots, 340 mains, needle on 3rd clip, air screws 2 turns out. I assembled everything very carefully, making sure all mating surfaces were clean and sealed perfectly. I have new UPP intakes also. Today I went and got some VP c-12 and mixed it 36:1 with Maxima K2. The choke tube is installed, the tors is removed and disconnected, I have spark at both plugs. I removed the degree key and installed the stock key to eliminate that potential problem. Still have blue spark, and there is fuel in both float bowls but motor will not fire. I also realized that I had the carb slides reversed so I switched those so the cutout is facing the air filters, but it still won't start. There are also new plugs, and brand new K&N clamp-ons installed. I have kicked this thing so many times my foot hurts and will probably be bruised tomorrow!!! It seems like a fuel problem to me, but the carbs are getting fuel to the float bowl. Does anyone have any other guesses or advice as to what I should look at? Please let me know what you think, it would make my day to solve this. Thanks in advance, Derek