BaddestBanshee

Use the stock lighting wires from the RZ350, technically none of this should be happening with the way its hooked up. Its like there is something we are losing in translation that is not wired right.

Use to have one. read the post in tips and tricks about the 2 into 1 pipe.

most bikes dont usually need more than 4-7 degrees of advance. You will just have to see how yours runs.

on the "stock" curve the dyna will have the same advance as stock until it gets to 3000 rpms or so... and the it slowly ramps to where it is advanced 4 degrees more than stock at 10000 rpms... hope this clears it up alittle 4 u... L8r d34 Buy the adjustable so you can tune it to work the best with your motor setup.

rz350 wire harness on a Banshee? Need more info pal!

power pro mx pipes with hush silencers, or dynoport 2 into 1 pipe.

Dude those are old fmf torque pipes. I am 100% sure, I had a set. They are old school because they were the first series of pipes they ever made for a banshee. They didn't start making banshee pipes until the 1990's.

Those were made before the fatties or rev or gnarly even came out. Those were called their "Torque Pipes" or nicknamed the mx pipes. They are FMF pipes though. It was also pretty much the only pipe that came black and wasn't labeled. Oh and by the way that dent will absolutely affect the performance of the pipe. There is a reason why they are made without dents.

There is no pipe on the market that can match the torque of a 2 into 1 pipe or low end gains of a 2 into 1 pipe up to 8000rpm. These pipes rock for mx, and technical riding. You have to decide what your riding style is before you get a pipe. I have run the 2 into 1 pipe on a recreation ported shee in the dunes. It was fast up the hill and wheelied like mad with a +4 on it. As for custom pipes, www.thepowerpros.com is the hook up there. Power Pros made me a set of mached cpi pipes that were improved upon for more mid range gains. They work pretty awesome and they db'ed at 92db's.

Usually the degree keys only shear off when you dont correctly install them. You may as well get a plate because thenyou can tune in your timing.

Here is the pics of the tires on my bike 21x12x8 10 paddle haulers on 8" wide .125 douglas rims. These are aired up to 5 lbs of psi.

Those are the ones in the picture. I am now running a 21x12x8 with a 9" wide rim. It flattens the tire out a little more and gives it more traction. Running the 8" wide rims makes it so you have to run about 2-3 pds of air for the tires to hook up. You can ask as much as you want, I can take a different pic tomorrow.

I got tires and wheels from rocky mountain atv for $196. I just bought new wider rims and I am getting ready to swnd those off for cnc. I dont have a rear pic, what is it exactly you want to see?

This is what cnced rims look like with 21x12x8 8" wides.

I think JJA does it for about $140 a set. Jeff Graves of Gravesmotosports has mine done for me, it cost about $15 a wheel. You cant buy them from the manufacturers that way. They are selling designer wheels now, but they still weigh quite a bit. JJA is the company who builds drag axles for mp racing.

The ultra lites do leak, so you will need rec. tires too. I would run a 21x12x8 on a 9 inch wide rim. with 10 paddles. Very tall and balloon tire. The wider than standard rim help widen them out and hook up better. I run a standard hauler because I play ride too. You can tear ultra lites and they leak like a siv if you play ride on em. The biggest thing to do if you go with a standard hauler is to get your rims cnced and magged out to make up for the weight. We compared my 21x12x8 10 paddle hauler on a 8x9 .125 rim with them magged out, to a 21x12x8 10 paddle ultra lite on a 8x8 rim. The ultra lite only weighed .75 pds less. Be prepared to drop that gearing with a big tire though.

I'm not going big bore, mine is plenty fast as a 350. If I ever build a full blown drag bike I might use this. I also run a 350 long rod kit right now.

I dont have any messages. A block of Aluminum. I dont know what strength.

what the heck, where are all the guys who doubted this thing.

Nikasil can take a lot more abuse than a standard cylinder. The downfall is getting it remachined and recoated. Usually in the snowmobiles we end up just buying new cylinders.

I can try, I had pictures with the flash on and off. These are the best ones I got. I guess I can take them with a regular camera and scan them.

That doesn't sound right. I had mine made through my motor guy for $375, they sell the mx and in-frame drag pipes for $460 with chrome. If you called and said you wanted the drag pipe with 1/2" added to the header, the chamber 1/2" smaller than the cpi and the pipe shortened 1.5" I bet he would build it for $460.

I finally got pictures of Dyno Daves Mono Block. This thing has huge cooling passages. Sorry it took so long!

Well, the in-frame drag pipes did the same thing on my bike. They make nothing but topend power. I didn't want the mx pipes because I do drag sometimes. Thats why I had the cpi pipes copied and added too for midrange power.