Yamahammer

Good looking out 370 nice to meet cool people who are not out to hurt someone in a new place..

Sounds good i will roll and pass the word along keep us updated,socal convay i am in. I have never been there either so i will be a newbie keep the roosting to a minimal for us followers.

May hit up glamis next fri or go some where local still up in the air..

The only problem is i rode in a little water the week before and it stuck like twice i thought maybe it didnt.Then i washed the bike at the Quarter car wash on the way home and did not start it or wipe it down then a week later i took it out and it stuck so bad you could not ride it un safe. cleaned them i thought 3 times and it still did it so i put it up.This is what i have found out since then..

i would almost put money on that and drop the bowl to be sure...

he probably got confused and ment stock pilot jet or he misunderstood them when they told him.

tats4 life any info on the lsr dc -4 or is that only for the aftermarket frame How did you like the lobo front end was there any problems due you feel it out performs the standard +2+1 set up. What rear axle did you run to keep it evened up or did you run ofset rims and if so what where they? Thanks for all the info you have answered a ton of questions i had

Has anyone ever tried two right carbs and blocked the choke tube off. mabe it is the left carb causing all the problems

I took the carbs off today and this is what i found I was blowing air in the transfer ports for the choke tube and got moisture out of the L carb the moisture will follow either two paths into the slide tunnel or the intake tract.These ports are located on the front or motor side of the carb in the slide tunnel,the other is on the motor side also but in the exit body of the carb on the left side(or right if you are looking into the carb from the motor side). On the L carb the transfer port goes into the intake tunnel with the choke CLOSED or in the slide body and intake with the choke OPEN BUT with the choke closed air will leak out slightly past the choke needle rod in the slide tunnel.( poss what is causing the problem is that maisture accumilates in the cavity and when heated by riding or by boncing it around it works out these two spots.It appears there is two places for the water to enter.If you look at you're carbs you will see two brass plugs in the carb body to block the holes made for manufacturing i think on some carbs and with heat expantion of two disimilar metals that this is where the water is entering and leaking onto the carb slide causing it to bind and hang.. On the R carb the coke port goes in from the top and only in to the exit of the carb the motor side and is located on the roof. My solution i used JB weld and sealed over the plugs so there is no way water is getting in there now i don: know if this was the problem or a cure but i thought i would share it with you and see what you thought.. I will test it this weekend and see how it goes. I also thought that mabe the hole was cloged to the R carb when i blew air in the choke tube hole it took alot of force then got easier but i could have been imagining things.

Is it possible for moisture to cause the advance to stick so instead of it being at 10 deg it is at 20 or what ever it is.. This would cause an increase in rpms like a sticking throttle?? How does the advance work on these bikes is it at the cdi or on the fly wheel mechanical or electronic.. I am trying something on the carbs will post it in the carbs sticking topic

They may just offer it as a race only and have it not be able to be registerd with the dmv. And sell it as a track only

(tats4life) I am looking into the long travel arms they have the gull wing design to them and use the longer shock I think the 19 inch. What is the length of a stock replacement shock for a standard +2 +1. I would like to see a side by side shot of a long travel and a regular +2 +1 set up to see actually how much more travel is gained and how much lower the ride height can be set.They claim that you dont gain travel but a better damening by the use of the longer shock.This is where i get in the gray at.Why did you sell the loboII what are you running now and what was the lobo +2+2 right how did it work for you and what conditions do you ride in. I called up roll but the guy i got did not know jack and kept running back and forth asking someone else so i gave up. (ledofthezep) I like the quick sand fabs also but he does not not offer the long travel yet as far as i know ( if you do or want a gennie pig let me know) if i dont go long travel i will most likely be getting his arms. What i am trying to find out and see is how much more travel is gained how much lower is the ride height. The more the travel you would think the better but has to be useable i just want to know if it is worth doing a little bit of money in the begining and not having to revisit that part for a while..

I am looking for rider input on them over there standard arms and shock choice.. How hard where they to install and adjust any problems so on.. They look comperable to a roll design but at about half the cost.

Damn are they going to come out and install it for you i would look for a used one so you have a mock up for a shop try an offroad shop that does roll bar fab and pre runner stuff. They should be able to point ya in the right direction. I would buy a good used one or a new one and have it legthened that should not cst that much, Heck you could even do it youre self cut the tubes going back and sleave them with a larger tube and drill it and bolt it together..

i would call up rpm and ask them it they could do it for ya. If not i wouold be cheaper and easier to buy one and then have it extended..

I like these itp bead lock the t9 baja but you would have to get the baja powdercoated i think when i called they said $25 a wheel. I really like the omf's but have not been able to get a price on them yet. check it out itp bead locks already black i am looking for a black wheel also. I looked at the carbon fibers but would hate to beak one so i am going with a aluminum wheel or the omf

Hey pm evil or hopefully he will see this at the top he has the ims tank.. On the top the brackets ae just plate steel 1/2 wide by 1/2 or so guestimation... they should not be hard to make.

i run the 927 or my first choice maxima k2 was told this is the best run it in the jetski and the shee hard to find and pricey

thanks guys and yea i never got into the old post and nowit is gone I hear ya on the throttle sticking at the 1/4 point i will try the choke tube and go from there all cables are free As far as humititiy yea it was on sun and it rained sat and also at a high altitude so i cleaned the bike up today and tomorrow i will tear into it hopefully i can get it worked out... Could it be a bad batch of carbs every so often and the slide bores are out of round? any body mik them

I just had the same problem with my 03 but the slides are not sticking as far as i can tell... But it runs like they are i was checking the throttle while they where stuck and no play at the throttle so i thought slides not stuck but if you hit the kill switch on and off it would idle normally again. I am thinking maybe an air lock or vapor lock senario is causing it. There was a long post on the old forum i am trying to find it but it looks to be lost at the moment.. I was talking this through with EVIL and he said there was never a problem solver that came up on that post and we where both comming up with the same ideas. I checked everything also even swithed needles out for different ones and same thing sticks about 1/4 throttle and everything is clear clean and not binding... 1> I wonder if it makes a differance when you bolt the cable holder on the slide if the hole gets blocked in the slide or open in the slide. 2> I was also thinking that the carbs get hotter than the slide which tigtens up on the slide causing it to stick??? 3>Vapor lock or something of the sort like an increase in fuel pressure like a full tank of gas and the tank not venting forcing the gas into the carb.. 4> Maybe a lean or rich spot on the pilot and it is burning off the excess fuel or leaning out. i know my jeting is right but since i rejetted it started doing this may be a coincidence but who knows bike only has 8 to 10 hrs on it?? 5> I was going to take some emry and scoth brite pads ant try to polish out or remove ane inperfections in the carb slide bores a good idea or not??? Any one have any good tips or somewhere to start looking.....

how much for pegs where are shipping prices

Get rid of the shit it is like advertising and not paying are they donating money to the site. (NO) well then get rid of that shit and ban them this is an atv banshee site not some girly excuse for a popularity contest.....

buemont is off the 60 right before the 10 where they come together park and ride try the south side of the street it is better drop a line if you want to head out there some time later

hash1250r whats wrong with the wicked arms they reviewed good somewhere else and am looking into them ??

thanks for the info this is the best i have read on suspension yet real world knoledge and what it takes to make it work thanks guys (looking back i hope the mouthful comment did not offend it was a compliment on how you explained everything in such detail) thanks for the input on sand i guess the sand absorbs part of the impact and reacts different on the suspension than a hard dirt surface does.(right or wrong) Can the same springs be used for sand and mx just change the comp and rebound and add extra squat to the rear for sand so maybe a 9 inch front and an 8 inch rear frame clearance. What about tire hieght does this affect suspension travel say a 20 rear instead of a 22 so you will have to lower the rear to make up for the tires and get the frame back to the 9 inches of ground clearance same with the front?