sredish

No no no, not at all man. It's all cool. I never read the posts fully. Half the time, I'll say, "whats your mods, elevation, blah blah", and it's all right there. Didn't put the porting together with the CPIs, but when I saw $800 porting, I thought somebody a little off. We gotta cover each other.

If your buying the NGK Br8es/B8es, then they're ready out of the box.

Just another example of his stupidity Snowmobiles have zero effect on yellowstone, because there's no terrain to tear up, your on snow, and there's a trail system laid out very well. he's an idiot.

I had the 35 on and switched to the 38 off my 250r, it has a little less on the bottom, but I gained 5 mph on top. It definitly pulls harder. I have only bolt on parts no porting.

Fresh top end and porting.

Yeah, I wouldn't worry about the axle, the break more from jumping and obstacles and such, not straightline horsepower.

Minkia has a set in the FOR SALE section pretty cheap, they have a very small chrome blemish, but you can't beat the deal.

Now, Oilsmoke, you see why I went for the general "explanation" of pipe picking. Because, from his comment, I felt that the prev. owner was full of bullshit and was trying to sound... well... smart. But you're right, I didn't look deep enough into the comments on the portwork. It is right that if it's ported for Top End then you'll want some sort of a top end pipe. I'd say get a set of Toomeys, they'll give you some nice top end power that will work with just about any mid to top porting and still have great trailability compared to some drag pipes, in my opinion. Rocket pipes are supposed to be great drag pipes with a surprising amount of mid. Plus, the silencers have been changed. Hit up Minkia for a pic of the new style of silencers. They're really trick looking.

The single carb DOES increase top end over stock carbs, not as much as a pair of 30's, but the single will give you much more low/mid than a pair of 30's. So, you'll get better overall power with the single carb. I would've suggested it at first, but you mentioned top end, and not low/mid. It's what I run, and it'll take a lot of work to get me to change back to duals.

yeah, loco does run one, but i was tryin to get away from having to do more cutting and welding. that will probably be the way to go though.

I see these RAD carriers and there are some others, are they designed, or are there some designed to mount to the stock carrier? I'm gonna shorten a stock swinger and would like to buy a chrome roundhouse carrier and mount it up and these always say "Yamaha Banshee, ready to install", and I wanted to run this by you all.

What makes the FMFs a pos? Are they old and rusted out, or does he just not like them, why do they need to be replaced? The type of pipes to buy will depend 100% on your riding style. If you want low/mid, I'd say get some FMF Gnarlies or Paul Turner Midrange, depending on budget, but if your gonna dune and high speed trail, get some Toomey T5s, and if your gonna mainly drag, then get some CPIs.

What about in a XC environment where you have longer straights where the speeds might get a little faster or hold higher speeds a little longer? You guys think a -1 might work better in that environment or a -2 will still be stable and fine for that? I've really had a hard time working this one out in my head, and anyone that knows me knows I can't make a decision for shit when it involves my banshee, I weigh it over until I go nuts. I've got one txblueshee let me "borrow" to cut down and try out. Part of my wants to go ahead and cut it then and another part wants me to hit ol Gary up for a nice -1.

all he has to do is picture his girlfriend.

Man, if you don't have pipes, then forget it. You can start out in 2nd, it will get you downfield faster and help fight tirespin, but without pipes, you don't have the power, unless they're bone stock as well, then it will be close. He'll hook up better than you so it will be close.

Yes, there is a need for the crossover tube. I'm not much for explaining the whole deal behind it, but without a doubt, if I ever go back to dual carbs, I'll be using the Pro Design Intake and it has the spots for a crossover tube. I've seen dynos with just a change from stock to PD Intake and there's a nice increase in performance. I've heard the Boss intakes are good as well, tho I've never seen dynos showing the added power. I wish I had the money to experiment with carb sizes also. I'm sure Trinity did some testing before they offered the kit to the public. If I hadn't sent my cylinders off for porting, I'd consider trying a 33mm. I think with the stock setup, the 33mm will work better. More velocity would mean more vacuum for the fuel and I think it would give better response, and make it easier to jet. I don't necessarily think the power will be a whole lot different with the 33, I just think the air velocity has a lot to do with how a carb performs and a 35mm carb is a big carb. With porting, it'll be flowing more air so there's the increase in velocity. Some people say why not just use a 38mm or something for a stroker, but at mid throttle or low rpms, there's less need for airflow and with a 38mm or bigger, there won't be much velocity at all and I think the power will suffer. I might try it one day. I'd still like to experiment with a 33 as well, and I just might!! Good luck on your carb decision.

Absolutely it will be a good mod. It will rev a lot quicker, come off rev quicker and the throttle response is instant. Definitely a good mod. As boonman will tell you, you might not see much of a power gain on the dyno, but seat of the pants and throttle response and the way it revs is way worth it. Send boonie a pm.

I'd say keep your stockers, throw a TORS removal kit on them and get them bored to 28mm and your good to go.

If I remember correctly, the PT silencers have a male end on them and the pipes are female, so they wouldn't fit without some cutting and welding. You won't get as much for your Bill's if you try to sell them pipes only, so my opinion is just to belly up and get the Fatboy silencers, then sell your Bills outright. You'll get more money that way and your fitment will be perfecto!! BTW, to everyone, I just replaced my shittily modified CPI silencers that were supposed to fit my PT's with some Fatboys that are made for them, AND they came with PINK Fatboy2 stickers. WTF!! All that dough, and the f'in stickers are pink? f*ck that. Them stickers are already rolled up in the dumpster where they belong, what happened to the blue sticker?

Never heard of any of those, except GWC is a race shop and I don't believe they make their own, usually they use Gibson, but someone can shed some light on that.

Depending on your mods, you might be able to gear up a gear higher and that might help. But it will hurt you if you don't have the power.

The T5s are supposed to respond to mods extremely well. FMFs generally do to, but the Fatties are known to respond the best in the FMF family. If you really can't tell the difference, sell the T5s, they're worth a little more dough I imagine, but then, the SST's are probably not around as much, so that might be some extra cash. Shit, just sell one and keep the other, the choice is yours, then buy yourself a Coolhead or some porting or something. Also, did you just switch em or did you rejet each time? A properly jetted pipe will perform better than a pipe that's a little off. So, while they were the same, if the T5s weren't jetted just right, like if they were just thrown on, there might be more power to be had with some proper jetting. Just a thought. Scott

If you like what you have but wanna change, then I'd go to PT mids. But, if you really like what you have and want something that looks better, spend a quarter of the dough and ceramic coat your current pipes. They'll look brand new, be way more resistant to rust and you'll have the same power that your used to and like. I've honestly heard that Bill's piipes are really good low/mid pipes, somewhat comparable to PT Mids, although the PT Mids are the strongest mid pipes out. I've just swapped over to some PTs but they're being ceramic coated at this minute, only tried them out for about fifteen minutes, and definitely stronger than my Fatties in teh mid area.

Like Mike said, they all have their issues to some extent. I run a Durablue cause that's what I was able to get the fastest when I was getting one. I don't have any experience with RPM. Just buy what you can get the easiest and/or the best deal on and you'll be fine! And as far as the Durabend issue, they say that the Durablues break and the LSR's bend so whatever. Haven't been around either that have had problems.