sredish

From Gorr, I bought two new Wiseco forged piston kits, had him port my cylinders, and bore the motor to the next size up, all shipped back to my door for $400. Portwork alone will run around 2 bills. I haven't had a lot of opportunity to run it since I've gotten it back together but the little bit that I have has been great. The motor pulls extremely hard from low and builds to an insane midrange. My pipes are midrange pipes not known for top end, so of course, my top end is gonna be a little lacking. The top end is still great, just not what it would be with top end pipes. My motor setup would be ideal for mx. I'm currently racing xc with it. If you look for the Woods port post in this forum, you'll see pics of my cylinders.

I've always wondered about the shorty clutch levers also. I'd love to have a shorty brake lever, and with stainless lines, it'd work great.

Isn't that like the DSP or maybe PowerNow thing... maybe I'm confused. I know what it is, they have it in RMATV for around 30 or 40....

Well, best way for me to define Gorr's woods port for you is this:

Less wear on the motor and myself... It took me exactly two laps on a nearby 10 mile xc course to get used to. The first lap worked my ass from doing what I was used to doing, and the second lap was decent. By the fourth lap, I was riding much faster, more consistent, and didn't feel like I was working near as hard, letting the machine do the work. The last lap was almost effortless with the low end torque and I didn't want to quit. I'm sure with time, it'll only get better. Now, if I can only fill the pinhole leak by the cylinder that keeps shittin on my purty frame....

I have : 1) Stock spindles in perfect condition 2) Chrome Lonestar tie rods (ends included) 3) 10" Rear ITP .190 wheels in great condition 4) Stock front wheels 5) Used CPI silencers (fitment has been changed, connects to a female pipe) not responsible for incorrect fitment. You buy, they're yours. 5) Stock front bumper Make an offer on these things and I'll consider. I'll get pics on here also.

Good question, wish I could compare evenly. I sold my Fatties while the cylinders were being ported, to help pay for some of that. That's a big regret. I wish I still had them to try out with the portwork, I bet they'd have been awesome. I'll say that the low end is crazy. The midrange is even crazier, frigging insane. It pulls really hard from idle and keeps pulling. The powerband is ultra smooth, no hit at all, just perfectly smooth. I'll also say that as it sits, it seems to fall off a little quicker, like there's not as much top end. Maybe just that the low/mid is quite a bit stronger and gives the feeling of it falling off some, dunno. Before, I'd take a corner with the revs up some and let it rev out, and with the setup now, it seems to fall off quick and I have to shift out of the corner that way. So, now I've gotten a little more accustomed to taking corners with the rpms somewhat lower and letting the low/mid pull me out and it works really well. Kind of like 4 stroke torque I guess. I went from a 15/41 with the stock cylinders and Fatties, to a 15/38 with the portwork and PTs. After the portwork and pipes, the 15/41 gearing felt like a 13 front tooth. I'd still like to tinker with the jetting and gearing a little more, and I'll be making a dyno day real real soon. I might go ahead and get another set of Fatties to play with also. Later.

I don't imagine the solid line part of your brake lines will flex too much, so I'm gonna say 2" might be a tad much for the stock lines. But, there is no reason to buy the extended lines w/o knowing first. Remove your bar from the clamps and raise it up 2" or so and see how much flex there is. On the other hand, you could take advantage of the situation and get stainless lines anyway, and have much much better braking. Once I went to stainless lines, I'd NEVER ride w/o them now. And I doubt you'd need +2 lines, because they're not solid lines so they flex, you could probably get away with stock, or go with +1 to be safe. I have +2 arms and +2 extended lines, and there is plenty.

I'm keeping my LSR a-arms and Elka shocks out of this one......

I currently use a Denton style and it works pretty good. Only thing I don't like is the mounting, a total PITA for me to mount, tho others don't seem to have the same trouble. It works pretty well like I said, and the adjustability is good. I just finished rebuilding my banshee and I actually haven't put it back on yet and I rode the other weekend pretty hard, and really missed it. My arms were really feeling all the extra jerking around. I'm actually interested in upgrading to a GPR bar mounted, but they don't make it for the aftmkt stem I have. They're coming out with a new style pretty soon and I might get that one, it has a remote adjuster on the bars by your clutch hand for ont the fly adjustments without moving your hand. But, if I get my Denton mounted back on, then I might just keep using it seeing as I'm too lazy to take it back off. Conclusion: I'd never be without a steering dampener, period.

Let me add that in the really really tight stuff, I'd run a 15/42. I'd just switch out the rear and be flyin again. That'd gear it a tad lower, just enough that I could hold 3rd gear in the tighter stuff. I like the 15 front and just swap out rears to gear it the way I need. Although, I need to take a link out to get the chain tightened just right for the 15/38, chain's a tad loose right now, so I might go back to a 15/39. Gearing is all personal preference and trial 'n error. Put on the 15/41 and it may be perfect, or maybe a tad too high for what you want, just try it and then see. Later

Boonman will also, or used to, mill heads. Holyman is also an Amsoil dealer and at one time, there were quite a few getting Amsoil through him. (Quick note: don't pm him, just send him an email)

Well, I've been running them in the woods pretty hard for a few months and haven't had any trouble yet. For the price, you can't beat em in my opinion, garbage or not, they're A LOT stronger than stock tie rod ends and tie rods, so you guys do what you must. We'll see how they work out in the longer run, but for now they're working fine for me.

Personally, I think that'll be a PITA in the woods, being too low. You'll be shifting a lot. I'd try 14/40 to 15/41 and see if one of those works best for you. In my experience in the woods, stretching the gears makes it easier and me faster rather than a lower gear that causes me to shift a lot. With my portwork, I'm at a 15/38 and it works great that way ( a 15/38 is equal to a 16/41). Before with my stock motor and FMF pipes, I ran a a15/41 and it worked great for me. You'll probably using a gear lower than you did before, but you should be able to pull it longer. My opinion.

they do not, they seem to be extremely tough tires. Bill Ballance has been running for the last year, so they've got to be pretty tough...

Nice, goes to show you that faster is better..... stay on the shee....

Just contact ITP directly to see if they make the Baja wheel with that offset, if they do, they'll either sell it to you or direct you where to go. If they don't, they'll eliminate you searching all over hell for it, and they may do it as a custom deal. That's what I'd do. Good luck.

RockyMountain.

I'm sure Dave's a lot like me... self employed. Sure, we can rake in the big bucks, but if shit hits the fan, there ain't no one to watch over us. And christmas bonus..... what's that? My christmas bonus is not getting work done over the holidays. Don't get me wrong, I love Christmas and wouldn't trade the holidays for anything. Merry Christmas.

How's this for a pic from the kitchen window? That's where mine is. Its hanging because it was plugged in, but it's usually tucked up in that gap.

Try looking under the bumper in the center area. There's a little gap area in the center between the bumper and the lower plastic dam, and its usually stuff in there on the 6.0's. I actually keep mine zip tied in that gap area. I'd take a pic, but it's too f'in cold outside....

definitely sounds like that side isn't firing. i'd run a compression check first thing and then do a spark check on the bad side to see if your getting spark, be sure to use new plugs for this. If you are getting spark, then I'd investigate a possible plug fouling issue. What does the spark plug look like when you take it out, all nasty and oily? I think you are experiencing a fouled plug, but I'd check the spark first.

yep, those ASR tie rods are exactly what I'm using. I've heard some negative comments about that company, but so far I've had good dealings. He says they have a lifetime warranty on breakage, haven't tested that yet, and I've beat the hell out of them so far, did some tree hitting with the front tires, rock pounding, stump smashing.... Coming into a new race season, we'll see how tough they really are. I used them a little bit last season, not much tho, my stock tie rod end (on the LSR rod) busted towards the end of last season. Overall, I like them. Only thing is the stud bolt is a little long, but doesn't hit anything, altough really close to the wheel on the spindle side. Once I got them set, I just cut the bolt off, no biggie. Here's another view of them. This is exactly what I have. I've looked and can't really find a decent picture of them on. Only this one.... click the link. Stupid Link!

I'd run at least 10 pounds in it, but if 76179 is running them that way, then i guess it works....

Did you rejet your carbs when you put the pipes on? Have you pulled the plugs to see what they look like? Is it only at idle, or does it seem to run this way all the time and is it low on power? It could be several different things, but we need to know stuff before we can really get you info.