sredish

blow-up is a vague term. NO quad should blow-up, unless something's wrong. now, the 450's are every bit as reliable as a 400 and vice versa. some of the newer 4 strokes are using 2-ring pistons which will require more maintenance and less time between top ends. the 04/05 450r's are using 3 rings stock which will last longer and wear less than a 2 ringer, but the 06 450r's are using 2 rings, like the crf motor. the yfz's and ltr's are using 2 ringers as well. These 2-ring pistons will require more maintenance and more top end rebuilds than an old-school 400ex, ltz400 3-ring piston, but you gain more horsepower. Basically goes as this, anytime you add horsepower, your going to sacrifice a little reliability and add a little maintenance. Just the way it works. Doesn't mean the new 450's aren't reliable, because they're extremely reliable as long as they're taken care of.

a good modded, big-bore ex can run with a piped 450, not too hard there. however, start getting a little work done on the 450 and it's over.

forget old school, I need to go back to school.....

awesome. the hulkster is a def. a good one... pretty good soldier as well.

that's cool, yea, now that I think about it, I remember seeing some "freak" on a banshee keep staring at us..... all good. i recognize BBIII's YFZ for sure. If the swinger was longer than 2" over, then chances are, I didn't have a shot, I'm still stock-bore, so A fun weekend, but damn the wind today.

how BiG of a hotrod's crank? oh yea, and she beat my ass tooo... pretty good.

Here's my black ride and then my bud's. Surely, some of you all saw me and my bud out at the drags. EDIT: Mike, I didn't. [email protected]

I was out at the drags quite a bit. I'm sure a bunch of you had to see me, my prob is I didn't know what most of you were riding and couldn't pick you out. Also, I wasn't at camp much at all, mostly out riding. I'd rather sit and watch the drags than sit at the trailer. I was lining up with a lot of the thumpers and some Shee's, but I wasn't sticking my neck out there with the big boys.... that's just plain foolish. I wasn't as social as I should've been, I guess, but the wife's expecting and was getting tired easy so I was making sure she was hangin in there. BigBoy, didn't get to meet ya. Got to talk to Blue some, and Loco took a piss in my camp... haven't seen Blue in maybe 2 years.... Had a good trip, my ass is sore and my bike hung in there ran good. Here's a pic for those of you who may have seen me but didn't know who it was. Edit: I'll post it in a sec.

Well, then you need to check this out. There's two different ones, but this one's the most expensive, of course. The 3Sixty.2 from RF. It's controlled by a Bluetooth Palm Pilot from the driver's seat. It's friggin crazy and I almost got one, but I know I'd be driving down the highway at 90 trying to retune a couple channels.... - 6-channel high-level input - 6-channel RCA level inputs (FR/FL/RR/RL/Center/Sub) - Two 31-band equalizers - Three 27-band equalizers - 10-band subwoofer equalizer - 6-channel HP/LP/BP/AP adjustable crossover - Time alignment and level control - 31-band AUX adjustable equalizer - Auto equalization with auto sum capability - Auxiliary RCA inputs - Digital Signal Processor with OEM integration capabilities (patent pending) - Remote programmable master volume/aux volume control - Wireless Bluetooth And a link... RF 3Sixty.2

Demon, what's up. This thread is bringing them all out of the woodworks... Alright, I guess I should add something positive to this thread..... Suspension IS Good.

plain and simply without going into all the technical crap... it's ANYTHING that causes a change in steering direction other than rider input. the arc of the suspension travel will cause bump steer and hitting a rock with wide-offset front tire will also cause bump steer. For optimum conditions, a narrow offset (4-1) wheel and properly designed front control arm suspension will minimize this. Ideally, you want the the center of the wheel/tire assembly direcly over the center of the ball-joint. Most of the suspension problems, we can't deal with. Unless you buy an LSR 250r geometry frame, you have what you have, so just do the best you can with it.

get a flywheel puller before you F it up. They're only like 10 bux. Just get one and then put the impact on that with light bumping pressure and it should pop it loose, but to keep hammering on the flywheel alone, not sure I'd keep doing that.

do it, why the hell not. unless you just don't like power.....

the Noss Head should come with domes, but I think you can specify which ones. I'd say 20's, maybe 19's will work, but no lower. I'm at 650 and 19cc domes put me at 160.

yours should just say.... Boner.

it may be a time for pistons, but maybe only rings, if the pistons and cylinders aren't worn much.

I'm not going to tell you what you need because I haven't seen the plugs, ridden the bike or nothing. What I can say is, I've seen time and time again, a person come on here have problems with their bike, problems with jetting and it falling back to the mfg's recommendations. The recommendations are hardly ever where they need to be. Honestly, I have a hard time believing a piped banshee at 500' needs a 260 or even a 270. I ran 310 mains in my FMF piped stock banshee at 620'. I'm not saying you need to do this or that, I'm just saying be sure your checking your plugs properly before you start leaning your bike out beyond the norm.

if you think your still a tad rich, why go 2 sizes. why not work it slow and go to 270 and recheck. BTW, what's your elevation?

I kind of agree. First off, the compression plus advanced timing might be close, but I don't see the lean / predet on the piston so much. I say, can the head. Instead of repeatingly spending money on the top end, this time, hit up Dave Noss at Noss Machine and get a head from him with the proper domes to be sure the head is right. Also, how are you breaking these top-ends in? Regarding this static and dynamic crap, this isn't a 4-stroke. We don't have cams affecting compression. That's basically what that is. You can have a "x-compression piston" but you can lose actual combustion compression with one cam and gain it with a second, hence the static AND dynamic, so you can decipher what's going on in the engine. This 2-stroke motor has, simply compression. Sure, porting can affect the compression some, but when it's said and done, your compression is what you have. I've ran these twin motors up to 210 pounds with +7 degrees advanced, no problems. I have a buddy on an .080 top end running 205 pounds with a coolhead, squish is right on, close but still good and his motor is one hell of a runner, not "built to blow".

whatup! i'm surprised they haven't banned me yet tho, since I'm rid of the 2-strokes.....

those really aren't that bad for $100 at all. a little steel wool and those can be looking pretty damned good if you ask me. I've cleaned up pipes that look way worse than that.

yes, you just take off the tops and then slide the whole dealie out the ttop. no need to pull the carbs.

My wife thought my Banshee was loud. Well, we were at the track the other day. My buddies Banshee, you could hear it go by, but when it would drop off the back side, you COULD NOT hear it. My Honda, he said you could hear it around the entire 1+ mile track and even hear exactly where I was in the throttle, decel and all. Who said 2-strokes are loud?

jet to clog.... dirt in the fuel tank or fuel system can do this. as the fuel passes through, the piece of dirt will also and clog the jet as it passes... think kidney stone.... also, if it sat for a long while, it could gel up some and clog that way as well. if it sits for long periods, mix some fuel stabilizer in there as well. I would quit periodically starting it up, just get the stabilizer and leave it. starting it up is hardest on wear because the oil has drained down and the first few turns the motor takes is the hardest on wear. go to the local shop and pick up an inline fuel filter, and be sure to keep the fuel going in clean and keep it sealed in the tank good. then mix some stabilizer in and leave it alone until your ready to ride next time. you can drain the float bowls as well when you put it up with the little drain covers at the bottom.

CPI In Frame and Toomey T5's are both loud. Hell, pull the silencer packing out of the CPIs and GODDAMN