davidj5491

Ok biffdenman, you need to go back to BlasterHQ. You've done nothing for either side of this argument. You just decide to register here so you can come on here and insult people's intelligence, just to back up your friend? If you had tried to show any valid information, that'd be one thing, but all you've done is thump your chest, talk about being a big time college student, and try to insult our intelligence. Fact of the matter is this: Blasters are good bikes for beginners and women (someone of college age should be able to handle a bit more...... ). They offer a nice entry level power range. And with a few mods, there is a little room to grow. But Banshees are what we big boys grow into. You'll understand that one day, probably right about the time your balls decide to drop. And just to prove that I'm not just trying to start shit here, here's my 2 cents on the matter. There are many builders in this country that claim to make HP. There are a lot less that actually stand out, and really do make the HP they claim. Examples of some of these are A&S Racing, K&T, and Packard Enterprises. They make awesome power with anything they build. When is the last time you saw any of these guys polish intakes? Or rifle carbs? They don't, and the reason they don't do it is because it doesn't work, and doesn't provide customers with the ride they want/need. Now maybe this is just me, but I think I'll stick with what comes from these guys, and not listen to some marketing scam from some upstart guy running around bragging about himself to a bunch of kids........ Now blasterboy, I'm sure you'll come back with another outstanding post, and then tell us how you have to hit your books again, but let me put this idea in your head. Why don't you browse around on here a bit, and maybe try to learn something from the guys that are a level above you?

Yep, I remember all those guys. Been awhile since they've posted. In all honesty though, most people on here don't really know me, I'm mostly a lurker......

Mark up another vote for 40mm Lectrons.

I've got a trued and welded stocker at my house that belongs to a friend of mine. He wants $150 for it, plus shipping. Let me know if you are interested.

I take that back. Stay away from Alba on the NX kit. They want too damn much $$$ for it. Go over to www.atvdra.com and talk to hendersonracing. He'll get you a much better price.

Yeah, definitely check out the setup from Alba. If I'm remembering right, they use the Nitrous Express wet kit. A wet kit is by far the best way to go for consistency. A friend of mine used the NX wet kit all last year with no problems. Whatever you do though, make sure your motor is ready for it. Forged pistons and a welded crank are a must.

Ok, the reply was a bit confusing. The Cheetah and T-Rex topends are two completely different units made by different companies. The only similarities are that they are both monoblocks, they both are available with powervalves, and they both allow for bigger bores. Other than that, they are different animals. And Trinity doesn't actually make the Cheetah cylinder, they get the from Calvin Pollett. There are a lot of other builders out there that use these cyls with a lot better results. To answer the original question though, to get ahold of a set of T-Rex cyls, you can contact http://www.teamracersedge.com/ . And if that doesn't work, you can try some of the other builders, such as K&T, and try that way. Best of luck to you.

If you still need one, I've got a trued and welded stocker, in good shape. Make me a reasonable offer.

I've got a set of front plastic that has been cut. It's white. Good shape. Make me an offer.

I've got both front calipers off of an 87. If you still need one, make me an offer.....

Man, no offense, but you're going to have to be more specific. Are you wanting to still be able to ride this thing, or is it going to be strictly drag? That's the main thing you gotta decide. I can't say enough about chassis setup though. All the motor in the world isn't going to matter if your chassis doesn't work. Let us know in better detail exactly what you're wanting to do, then we'll be able to give more detailed advice. P.S. Be prepared to spend a lot, cause this stuff is addicting, and you'll always want to spend more and go faster.......

Launching is all in the gearing and tires. Make sure you've got a good set of tires that are gonna hook HARD on the surface that you are racing on. Once you get your tire combo right, then work on gearing. Gear it as high as you can without the risk of bogging off the line.

Ok dude, what's your deal? First you claim a "stock" banshee, and then later on you say you have 73hp without nitrous, and 90-something with....... Are you on crack? Looking at you sig: 1999 banshee, Boondockers nitrous, Cool Head 22cc Domes, FMF Fattys, Bored 20 over high dome Forged Vetos pistons, Veto's Degree key, Wight Bro boost bottle, V-Force Delta 2 Reeds, K&N Air Filter, 340 FMF Jet Kit, +4 swingarm, +4 lonestar axle, Holeshot Tires, FMF Sticker Kit, 909 Handle Bars. There is absolutely no way that you are making 73hp with that setup. You MIGHT make 73hp with nitrous, but that's going to have to be with a 30hp shot. Decide what your story is, get it straight, and then come back and talk to us. Then we might consider listening to you. If you decide to keep bullshitting us, we're gonna keep giving you a hard time.

Do you still have it? I'm interested, and I'm near Louisville, so shipping wouldn't be a factor. Let me know.....

I personally wouldn't use anything but CPI pipes.

"Unless you just want to waste 30 bucks then go for it but its not gonna do anything but hurt you. " I totally disagree with this statement. How is running a better fuel through your engine going to hurt you? Sure it may hit the wallet a bit harder than pump gas. But how hard does it hit the wallet when your top end lets loose? The fact is that race fuel burns much, much cleaner. It has additives to help in lubrication, which helps with engine longevity. It burns a little cooler, and we all know that additional heat is not something you need. And the comment about it burning slower, while that may be true, do you really think you can notice a difference in how fast gas ignites in that small combustion chamber? Here's another way for everyone to look at this. We spend all this money on our Banshees, buying them, modding them, general upkeep....... After all the money spent, do you really want to skimp on the fuel that you use?? Something that could keep your motor up and running for a longer period of time? For me, I'll give $4.00 a gallon, compared to $1.50 a gallon to help keep my motor in tip-top shape.

I know i'm not the fastest out there, but my 370lr on gas has gone high 4.5's at about 68mph in 300ft. Not too shabby for a little gas motor......

Sneeky - I'll take $400 + shipping for the pipes. Let me know what you think.

I still have the clutch lockup and cover.... Actually I haven't sold anything off of the bike yet. Anybody still interested in anything?

Josh A - Ignore my PM, the guy that wanted the rear shock can't get it now, so it's yours if you want it. Mr Mooney - I do have a pingle. No alky carbs though, mine are still on gas. The reeds are yours if you want. I'd have a hard time taking less than what I listed for the PVL, as it cost me $525, but since you're interested in some of the other things, PM me and maybe we can work something out. Sneeky - Up at the top, I have it listed as to what pipes, and rims and tires I have. Then a little further down are my prices on them. As far as the complete engine goes, I'd ask $2000 for it. It's complete, has a PD Coolhead, drag porting, LR Crank, Hinson basket, 2-5 auto tranny that was just done back in April. The top case has been matched to the cylinders. For that price I'll even include the reeds and some pro design billet intakes. It's a damn good motor, that was well built. On gas, it went low 4.6's and would have dipped into the 4.5's with a minor gear change. And that was with my 215lb ass on it too....

Yep, I have the Marvin Shaw shock also. I'll let those go for $250. Let me know. Thanks again, David

Josh A. - The front end comes with everything needed. A arms, J arms, all the heim joints, custom spindles, and tie rods. All of which has been chromed. It's a real good looking setup, the best I've seen for a J arm bike. Lefty - The shifter is a pro design piece, and the brake pedal is Hinson. I don't have pics, but can get some. Thanks again for looking guys. Let me know what you think.

Wow, I wasn't expecting this many replies so quick.... I don't have any pics with me right this second, but I'll try to get some up as soon as possible. The only pic I do have is an action shot. you can go to http://www.littlesandy.com/images/MVC-468F.JPG and see it. Now for the pricing: Front end - paid $1300 total, asking $600 Stator cover - asking $150 PVL - $425 brake pedal and shifter - $75 Pro-Wedges on rims - $125 VForce reeds - $100 Front rims and tires - $75 Lockup and polished cover - $275 All chrome motor mounts - $50 Throttle assembly - $75 I'll try to get some better pics up this afternoon for you guys to see. Thanks again for looking.

Check out my post in the General Discussion forum for a good deal on a drag bike, or parts.

Hey guys, I think I've decided to sell/part out my drag banshee. I'd rather sell it as a complete bike, but will part out if I have to. I'm starting a new project, and need to get rid of one toy before building another. My bike is an 87 frame, it's been powdercoated black with silver sparkle in the clearcoat. It's got a HSCustoms lightweight drag racing front end (A and J arms, tie rods, spindles) that has been show chromed. It's got a HSCustoms +4 round housing aerotube swingarm that has been show chromed. I had a lot of the stock pieces chromed as well, such as the throttle assembly, the front and lower motor mounts, and the rear master cylinder. It's got CPI out of frames, PVL ignition, Direct drive lockup and polished cover. The motor is a 370lr, with ProDesign cool head, a 2-5 auto tranny, Hinson outer basket. It breathes through VForce reeds, 35PWK carbs, and clamp-on K&N's. Some billet stuff also included are the stator cover, water pump cover, shifter, brake pedal, and foot pegs. The front wheels and tires are Douglas 10x4 with scooter tires. I have 2 sets of rear wheels and tires. A set of studded Ohtsu radials, and a set of Pro-Wedges. I'm sure there are some things that I didn't write in, but that's a pretty good rundown of the parts on this bike. As I said before, I'd rather sell it complete, but will part out if I have to. If anyone is interested, please contact me here on this forum, by PM, or email me at [email protected]. Thanks in advance.