banshee67

they hook up about anywhere. loose mx to even playin around on the flat track. came with my bike and i love them. they even have some decent bite and sand and wash pits. and you can still break em loose with the simple pull and drop of the clutch. best tires ever made haha. i must admit though, i dont like the look of the fronts. i only have rear HDs and run stock fronts, but i love the look of the original holeshots. the HD is definitely wider than most other tires which help with the bite. you cant go wrong with a set of ITP HOLESHOT HDS.

agreed! they hook up about anywhere. loose mx to even playin around on the flat track. came with my bike and i love them. they even have some decent bite and sand and wash pits. and you can still break em loose with the simple pull and drop of the clutch. best tires ever made haha. i must admit though, i dont like the look of the fronts. i only have rear HDs and run stock fronts, but i love the look of the original holeshots. the HD is definitely wider than most other tires which help with the bite. you cant go wrong with a set of ITP HOLESHOT HDS.

cannot tell you what your compresion or jetting should be without your elevation. your gas / oil should be about 32/1 per gallon. you have about all the bolt ons and should be around 50-60 horsepower more or less. for more power i would open up your airbox and upgrade your carbs. i would say 28mms or 30mms D slides. after that, i about the only other thing you would want now would be some porting. and then shit gets pricey and complex. and so many other options become available after that. i think that if you decide to to the airbox and carb upgrade, you should be happy for awhile. but need your elv. to tell your jettint. bad jetting will blow up your pretty new engine.

ya that is very similar. i think if i can remember the company name was something like diamondback? but i was just wanting more information on it. sounds like something i would want to do. if anything i have a trx 250r that i could do something with. needs new shocks anyway. but i have searched diamondback v-link setups, and they seem to be focusing on mountain bikes. i just want to try something new and if it works and works well, who knows what could happen.

ya that is very similar. i think if i can remember the company name was something like diamondback? but i was just wanting more information on it. sounds like something i would want to do. if anything i have a trx 250r that i could do something with. needs new shocks anyway. but i have searched diamondback v-link setups, and they seem to be focusing on mountain bikes. i just want to try something new and if it works and works well, who knows what could happen.

i have searched the internet for the last hour and have found no results other then having to order a subscription myself and order that issue through there newest which i dont want to spend the money. the best i can describe it is this. the shocks were on the inside of the frame instead of being on the outside on a-arms. there were linkages that attach the shocks to the frame along with long push rod type things that were running straight up and down off of these other things that acted like a-arms. as the arms where pushed up, the rods would push on a pivot as they were pushed up and would in turn push down on the shock. this seems kind of odd to me but looks cool. and from the reviews of what was briefly said, it sounds like an awesome design as well as looks unique.

our 87 has the crank it came with when it rolled of the factory. same with our 94. so idk. in our 87 we tookk it out too glamis where it had a melt down due to deto. compression was around 180 psi. didnt know we were running too low of octane until it went kaboom.

they are fairly cheap compared to the other pipes but should be able to compete with them. have you done any research on them yet? like power band range or anything?

i liked the toomeys the top end is just as beneficial in flat track at top end. with the top end pipe it allows you to rev out higher than the guy next to you so that you dont have to down shift going into the corner. as for porting, you can port for the t6s just as you could for the t5s. the t6s also have decent bottom end and come on strong in the mid range. i think that they would be a great setup for a flat track bike. make sure you get the jet kit that comes with the needle. it makes a noticeable difference in throttle responce. i would also advise in an intake setup and an aftermarket head such as milling your stocker and reshaping it ( have heard good things from Mull Engineering) to increase compression.

alright, so i was reading one of the Dirt Wheels issues and they were talking about one of their past issues (from something like 1991 or so) and it was refering back to the prototype v link front end suspension. know from what they said, they got the idea from the formula one race cars. it looked very strange but they said that it turned very easily and was soft in the smaller whoops/ bumps and stiffened up with the second spring rate for larger jumps. now i was wondering about two things. if the idea performed so well, why didnt the racing company's take this idea and refine it. secondly, it reminded me of the sundahl banshee. only kinda reversed, so how would one fabricate one of these if one could?

GET RID OF THAT K&N!!!!! get a good foam filter, and an outerwear for that as well seeing as you are in a dessert and sand area. the banshee will not have the same low end torque that your 4 stroke buddies will have. your pro circuits already have some of the best bottom end you can get. either get your head cut and reshaped or get a cool head. there is no real evidence about cooling effect with the cool heads compared to a stoker but they do offer flexibility with changing domes to different elv. to try to avoid running race fuel. advance your timing with an adjustable timing plate and you can advance or retard your timing of when the spark plug fires to adjust for bottom and top end. and lastly, invest in some carbon fiber reeds and a ported reed cage. these are about all you can do with it besides some serious porting and stroking. and for your heating issues, run a richer coolant along with keeping your rpms low when you dont need to be rapped out. as long as you are getting airflow through the radiator, it will keep fairly cool.

do it if you think its what you want. i have heard that their customer service is hit and miss, but they do have decent products if you can install them correctly and with proper care. but take steps and try to talk with their builders and compare them to some other builders. there will be people who are biased towards other builders and against others.

we have a bills pipe on our 250r and it is a decent pipe. awesome low end and i found them on a duncan racing website. i am thinking that they are a good pipe for mx. i like it on the 250r but havent seen them on a shee so i would assume that the power range would be the same.

thats what i said. all of the toomey pipes will fit the toomey silencers, but the stingers might not be a different story with the head pipes being shaped different.

ok that makes a little sense to me. so why would you run them though rather than regular banshee pistons for a 4mill?