714banshee380 Posted August 13, 2008 Report Share Posted August 13, 2008 Hey everyone, my names steven and im 16. I get most of my knowledge from this site and I'm really happy it was invented. My mind just clicked about my shee... please take the time to read this. Im confused I'll explain my story as short as possible.. In 2002ish-2oo4ish my family got into glamis (we used to ride all our lives) but got started going to glamis in 02/04. Anyways i got my first shee in 04. Ya i was 12 and everyone said it was to much power and yada yada yada but i grew into it. well my shee seized, and I am not as mechanically inclined as I'd like to but we have this friend who works on banshee's. He says "ya I'll bore it out maybe it just needs a hone and redo the top end." At the time i was 12 and didn't know what that meant. So i found this site and that's where it all started. We'll he ended up fixing my shee had to go one size over stock bore, we put new wiseco pro-lites in them and I think that was it at the time. Well it seized up for the second time. And me and my dad are all wtf. So we take it back to the guy and he says "the crank knocked out of alignment during the first seize." there fore the piston would hit the head at tdc. We had to buy all new pistons,rings, gaskets, circlips, wristpins for the second time and we fixed the problem. But the guy did some more mods. He added a cool head not sure what size domes I never found out, along with a +4timing plate. My shee overheated every trip last season or almost so I went and spent all this cash on a new grill for better air flow, bigger main jets, billet water pump(haven't ran it yet), and engine ice(haven't ran it yet). I currently run a 40/1 fuel oil mixture along with a 50/50 93 pump gas with VP110. I haven't run any of this stuff yet cuz its to hot for glamis and first trips in october. BUT It just clicked in my head due to the +4 timing plate my bike runs hotter and whatever reason I may be running wrong dome sizes. My elevation is sealevel or little below (glamis) So help me out. ANY input on this topic would be great as I would have loved to keep my shee stock piped filtered and had it run 5season strong JUST like my yfz450. Thanks everyone, Steven Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenBB Posted August 13, 2008 Report Share Posted August 13, 2008 Nice looking Banshee :cool: Hopefully someone else will post but...whoever told ya that the crank being out of alignment would allow the piston to hit the head at tdc is either a moron or way more enlightened than I am, because I don't see that being physically possible; the piston's distance from the crank centerline can't change regardless of that side's crank lobe/assembly position relative to the other side. If the crank twists, it doesn't make the rod longer... Anyway, yes I do think if you advanced the timing it would make it run hotter if you didn't rejet to compensate, what did you change the jetting to and what was it before? As far as the dome sizes, there's not really a "wrong" size, just a matter of running the right fuel octane to prevent detonation, so if you're running 93/110 and it doesn't detonate, you're probably good to go there and it shouldn't cause overheating issues. If it was me I'd find out the exact dome size and ask around about what octane matches that dome size, you'll run into issues going way above or below the required octane (I'm no expert there)...I do know it's a give & take thing where the smaller the dome (higher compression) the more power you'll build (especially noticable at lower RPM) but the higher octane you'll need ($$$) to run it safely. From what I've experienced, overheating is usually directly related to jetting, so if I were you I'd learn all you could about proper jetting, it's worth the effort and not only gets you the most power out of your motor but will make it last (scope out the Jetting FAQ for some more info). If it's not jetting, either something in the cooling system is jacked or you're not getting enough airflow over the radiator, by lugging it around too slow or mud caking on the radiator or whatever...they like to get movin' and stay that way. BTW water wetter or engine ice is good stuff, add a little (doesn't take much read the label) and ideally get a temp gauge to let you know just how hot she is, it's worth it. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mopar1rules Posted August 13, 2008 Report Share Posted August 13, 2008 water wetter is to be added to your coolant system. it can be used w/straight h2o or with 50/50 mix of water and anti-freeze. IMO....water wetter is junk. used it in my r1 bike and make no difference. engine ice is coolant all in itself.....meaning its not to be mixed with antifreeze or more water. the engine ice is already mixed properly from the manufacturer, so you just dump it into the empty coolant system and go. yeah, whoever is doing the work on your shee should just be shot. he doesn't know what he's talking about. what mods are all done to your shee? what is your elevation and what is your current jetting? i have quite a few mods done to my shee and it doesn't overheat ever. never has, never will. is your system bled properly? did the guy even put coolant back in it? lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rb0804 Posted August 13, 2008 Report Share Posted August 13, 2008 if your running good gas id check into the size of the dome or the timing, go ahead and install the billet impeller, its cheap insurance. if you dont feel like pulling the motor down to check the domes, put the timing back to stock and see if it helps. do you have a temp gauge on it? if your running the VP you shouldnt have an overheating problem (it is a slower burn than regular gas). keep us updated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
714banshee380 Posted August 13, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2008 Thanks for all the post everyone. To answer everyones question (don't know how to tripple quote so bare with me) BenB: I actually never ride mubd so caking on mud to my rad isn't a problem but I posted my radiator cover a while back in my picture and people said it blocked to much air so i bought a new really revealing one for better air flow. so that's checked out. As far as jetting, I think im pretty dead on Because im running 330's at sealevel or a little bewlow sealevel so you think i should bump them up a little? My spark plugs looked like a nice tanish color so I predicted the jetting would be fine. Mopar1rules: Yes the engine ice i heard would decrease temperature plus it was premixed so that was a plus. Mods done to my shee are... t5's and silencers, K&N air filter pods, 2 bore sizes over stock, +4 timing, coolhead not sure dome sizes, (soon to have billet impellar shaft) and jetting i run 330 mains. FUNNY thing is though when i drained the coolant it was black!!!. Did the coolant burn? Did oil get into the water system? rb0804: I am taking the head off in a couple weeks or when i have all parts together to do it at one time.... (im guessing the dome size says underneath???) and i currently don't have a temp gauge on it. I will probally get one before this season? Anyone know of some good temp gauges? Thanks again everyone for all the posts. really helped out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shanYE west Posted August 13, 2008 Report Share Posted August 13, 2008 how about a compression check? that would give you a idea on what domes are in it without pulling the head. also what clip position is your needle? Black coolant probably isn't good either.. lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
714banshee380 Posted August 13, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2008 how about a compression check? that would give you a idea on what domes are in it without pulling the head. also what clip position is your needle? Black coolant probably isn't good either.. lol Well I was'nt planning on pulling the head to check my dome sizes. I was going to pull me head to see if there is any wear or damage because atleast 2 trips last glamis season it would overheat and smoke out the radiator after running the hill. So do you think there is any damage? Maybe I should put it all together impeller, coolant, oil, because everything is drained right now and start it and do a compression test.... then if my compression is bad then pull the head. one more question by pulling the head how much fluid will i loose?? will i have to replace all my oil and coolant? because if so I will save it since I will be putting in brand new oil, coolant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C&B Posted August 15, 2008 Report Share Posted August 15, 2008 Ive seen this before but im not 100%. Check the impeller out for sure. Buddys brand new motor, same shit, impellar was shot. Billet impellar prob solved. Give it a shot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
714banshee380 Posted August 16, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2008 Ive seen this before but im not 100%. Check the impeller out for sure. Buddys brand new motor, same shit, impellar was shot. Billet impellar prob solved. Give it a shot. I did take out my stock impeller before i replaced it with the billet one and it showed to sign of damage.... It was dried out though but i didn't know what a brand new stock impeller looked like so i had nothing to compare it. It looked fine to me i have pics but i replaced it anyways. I hope this problem helps that's all i can say. Cuz I'm sick of my shee overheating Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rb0804 Posted August 17, 2008 Report Share Posted August 17, 2008 compression check?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
714banshee380 Posted August 17, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2008 compression check?? I went out to go do one yesturday but it ended up that the compression tester kit did'nt have the size of the spark plug. It only has 10mm, 12mm, and 14mm. What do you guys recomennd for a good but cheap tester?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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