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I Wanna Learn


quikshee

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I'm really interested in learning how to mod the stock timing plate to get +4, i've done my own porting on stock reed cages. I found that to be rather easy with the right tools on hand. Can anyone give me some how to advice and what tools I will be needing to do the job right or point me in the right direction of someone who does?.

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I'm really interested in learning how to mod the stock timing plate to get +4, i've done my own porting on stock reed cages. I found that to be rather easy with the right tools on hand. Can anyone give me some how to advice and what tools I will be needing to do the job right or point me in the right direction of someone who does?.

 

You can do it with any tool used to remove metal. A rat tail file, a die grinder with a small bit, a die grinder with a cut off wheel, or an end mill. All your doing is slotting the the through holes that mount the timing plate to the case halves. 1 mm of adjustment is 1 degree of timing. Not sure if you can get a full 4mm of adjustment from the stock plate but you should be able to get close. Clockwise rotation advances the timing.

 

SP

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The whole point of this thread is so I can LEARN how to do this, not go out and buy one. I did some research on modded plates and people have been able to get +4 and +5 with the stocker, which is what most people seem to be running.

 

How do I measure the mm that i have to take off the plate???

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For the second and last time, I WANT TO LEARN HOW TO MOD THE STOCK PLATE NOT BUY ONE!!! I know it's so much easier to drop the 35 bones on an adjustable plate, if I wanted to buy one and not gain any knowledge I would have done that already. Now, for those who are willing to lend a hand please feel free.

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Look man, Its not hard to comprehend... You must move the pickup to change the timing. Use a right angle die grinder and elongate the three holes on the stator plate keeping in mind that you need to stay on a circular axis so the plate can rotate. (clockwise) be sure not to make your reaming any larger in diameter than the original holes so your stator still maintains to proper distance from the flywheel. Like said up there somewhere, 1 mm equals 1 degree so mark you case where stock position is and mark one mm notches in your stator plate. you will also have to flatten (with the die grinder) the area around the newly elongated holes in order to have the 10 mills sit flush when tightening it back down.

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