Clutch Problem, Maybe push rod? HELP!

[Banshee350TX]

I took my banshee out for a little ride, probably about 10 minutes or so. I got up to fourth gear and decided to slow down pretty quick to turn around(riding in a neighborhood setting). I was holding in the clutch shifting down(riding the clutch), at the same time braking to slow down and make the turn and all of a sudden the clutch just released itself when I was slowing down, going about 20-25mph. I thought it was the clutch cable but you can still see the cable pulling down by the engine. The clutch lever now has no resistance and pull back and forth freely. A good buddy of mine, a local, pretty smart car mechanic, told me that it could be the push rod. I also took it to the yamaha shop and they were saying that it could be the same thing. Has anybody else had a problem like this? If not, what are the common problems that happen inside the banshee clutch box? In the meantime, I haven't split the cases because I am waiting on the manual to come in and would like to see if I could get some insight from you guys. Please help me out. Thanks in advance, JR!

[tgbanshee]

The piece that attaches to your clutch cable that goes down into the case and rotates when you pull the clutch is called the shift actuator. There could be a problem with that internally, maybe it snapped or the rod wore through it, although both of those are probably unlikely. I found a nice grove worn into mine when I rebuilt my motor:

 

 

Could also be the piece that the other end of the clutch rod pushes against, it's hard to say. Check the actuator, it should pull right out of the top of the case after you remove the holding bracket. If it is not that, pull the clutch cover and poke around in there. You probably won't have to split the cases unless something really went south.

[Banshee350TX]

Thanks for the help!

[4stroker]

on a banshee, the clutch actuator (above pic) pushes on the push rod, which pushes on a ball bearing, which pushes on the pressure plate to dis engage the clutch.

 

the rod can weld to the ball some times if you coast along with the clutch in at high speed for too long. in worst case scenarios the rod can weld to the actuator and the ball.

 

first thing to do is remove the actuator out of the case. if it comes out clean you are lucky, so just remove the side case, remove the 6 clutch spring bolts and take off the pressure plate. you will then be able to see if the ball is welded to the rods either side of it.

 

if the actuator doesnt want to come out you will have to split the cases to fix it!

 

hope the actuator comes out!

 

mark.

[ClimbAnyHill]

I say pull the clutch cover off and inspect it all! This would be a good time to order that pancake bearing. Bearing welding can happen if going high speed and pulling that lever in long enough. How fast were you going?

Edited July 7, 2008 by ClimbAnyHill

[Banshee350TX]

Will I have to split the cases if the push rod is welded to just the ball?

I was in fourth gear on a pretty much stock banshee(only has fmf pipes/silencers). I'm not sure exactly how fast I was going, maybe 50-60, but it happen when I was slowed down to about 15-25mph. It always seems like its going faster than it truly is but I am sure that I was in fourth. I have already ordered a new push rod, bearing, and clutch gasket cover. If I have to split the cases then I will probably just buy a brand new fast clutch and redo the whole thing but hopefully its just something small! Thanks for all of the help guys and please keep the tips coming!

Edited July 7, 2008 by Banshee350TX

[dajogejr]

You welded the ball bearing to the pushrod.

You may get lucky and not have to split the cases, but...worst case, you'll have to split them to get 'em out. It happens...no biggie.

The exact reason a pancake bearing was made.