NOS_350x Posted April 10, 2008 Report Share Posted April 10, 2008 Bored and thought i would thow up some pics. Riding on my pratice track Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NOS_350x Posted April 10, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2008 The bikes 400ex/cr500 The trx450 Before after Banshee My gf racing my shee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r_flagel222 Posted April 10, 2008 Report Share Posted April 10, 2008 which is fastest? on the flattrack i mean... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NOS_350x Posted April 10, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2008 which is fastest? on the flattrack i mean... Dyno numbers 500: 51.50 350: 48.98 450: 44.40 The bigger the track the better the 500 does. 85 mph in 3rd gear lets it absoutly SCREAM when its got the room. On a medium sized track the shee is the best. The 450 just dosent have the speed i like. On the smaller tracks its real close between the 450 and Shee, The shee can put down much faster lap times but is extremely hard to keep consistant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r_flagel222 Posted April 10, 2008 Report Share Posted April 10, 2008 (edited) i feel ya on the consistancy issue....... its def. hard. with the guys i race against everyweek one mistake equals damn near a full straight and 5 or so spots. we run a 1/6 mile bullring. another track is 1/4 mile... more forgiving on the shee cause its so fast up top on in the pipe! ya know? ive also figured out that trying to slide through the corners is slower on the shee.... that hurt me the first season i ran it! i wanted to run the track the way a sprint car did.....no more or that from me! RYAN Edited April 10, 2008 by r_flagel222 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NOS_350x Posted April 10, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2008 i feel ya on the consistancy issue....... its def. hard. with the guys i race against everyweek one mistake equals damn near a full straight and 5 or so spots. we run a 1/6 mile bullring. another track is 1/4 mile... more forgiving on the shee cause its so fast up top on in the pipe! ya know?ive also figured out that trying to slide through the corners is slower on the shee.... that hurt me the first season i ran it! i wanted to run the track the way a sprint car did.....no more or that from me! RYAN Are your tracks cussion tracks or bluegrove? One of the small tracks i run (its about 1/6) I pull a holeshot and tap the brakes in the first turn, get a few bikes to pile up in the first turn and then you get a bit of cussion room for mistakes. On the small track get your gearing down so you dont have to shift, I run 3rd gear all the way around, Its reved like hell at the end of the straight. No shifting leaves room for MUCH less error. 14-41 with 63" hoosiers (the bigger hoosiers launch much better than the 59's) on the shee i hate 59's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r_flagel222 Posted April 11, 2008 Report Share Posted April 11, 2008 Are your tracks cussion tracks or bluegrove? One of the small tracks i run (its about 1/6) I pull a holeshot and tap the brakes in the first turn, get a few bikes to pile up in the first turn and then you get a bit of cussion room for mistakes. On the small track get your gearing down so you dont have to shift, I run 3rd gear all the way around, Its reved like hell at the end of the straight. No shifting leaves room for MUCH less error. 14-41 with 63" hoosiers (the bigger hoosiers launch much better than the 59's) on the shee i hate 59's the tracks i run are bluegroove... they tack up nicely. on tracks that start us from a dead stop i have no problem pulling a holeshot. its the weekly track that runs us from a rolling start.. the bored and stroked 450s pull hard from anywhere in the throttle. i run 15-41 with 59'' hoosiers. the corners are hairpin and the straights are too long for one gear... im in 3rd coming out and have to shift into 4th in mid straight. i shortened a swinger 2'' to get more hook, last year i spun the tires till i shifted into 4th on the straight... anymore setup tips will be helpfull... thanks again! RYAN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NOS_350x Posted April 12, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2008 the tracks i run are bluegroove... they tack up nicely. on tracks that start us from a dead stop i have no problem pulling a holeshot. its the weekly track that runs us from a rolling start.. the bored and stroked 450s pull hard from anywhere in the throttle. i run 15-41 with 59'' hoosiers. the corners are hairpin and the straights are too long for one gear... im in 3rd coming out and have to shift into 4th in mid straight. i shortened a swinger 2'' to get more hook, last year i spun the tires till i shifted into 4th on the straight... anymore setup tips will be helpfull... thanks again! RYAN What kinda weight are you running with the swaybar? Are you adjusting it with the swaybar or shock. If your using your swaybar to adjust the weight try using the shock it will give it diffrent charastics mid turn. Might work out better for ya. Also if your doing a rolling start get a 61 on the outside. Run a staggar. Once your goin around the track dive low in the corner, after the apex start floating up, this way someone gets beside you they run out of room way fast. If you do that you have to be super smooth or people get pissed and say your blocking, i know. When going into the turns Tap your front brakes this will get the weight off the rear tires and give you a ton of grip on the front, allowing you to run much more weight on the inside rear, and you can hook up more. During that time when your taping the brake it also give you an awesom spot to start pitching it sideways before the turn comes and you can use that slide to really slow you down. Theres just a few things to try, I got a few more little mean little tricks ill throw out there soon. Some may work for ya some may not, give it a shot and see what ya got. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r_flagel222 Posted April 12, 2008 Report Share Posted April 12, 2008 yes, my right front is preloaded via swaybar... not sure how much .. got 4 bathroom scales and plan on figureing out how the weight changes on the wheels via the bar just havent had time... stagger wise= i have been swelling a 59 i used last year to try the stagger setup... as far as blocking goes....... too bad for them! find another groove to run! they bitched all last year.... ohh well! racing is racing............... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NOS_350x Posted April 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2008 yes, my right front is preloaded via swaybar... not sure how much .. got 4 bathroom scales and plan on figureing out how the weight changes on the wheels via the bar just havent had time... stagger wise= i have been swelling a 59 i used last year to try the stagger setup... as far as blocking goes....... too bad for them! find another groove to run! they bitched all last year.... ohh well! racing is racing............... You only need 2 scales put them on the 2 rear's. Thats much easyer and simplistic. Easyer to keep track of. I would start at 10lbs inside rear and go from there, If the track is sticky take some off if its slick then add some more. 10 jsut seems to be a good starting point. Streching the tire will work good. They tell me the cussion is there you cant pass in it. WELL, run it the whole race and make it rideable you knwo exactly what im going to do. Here is a good trick to do but you need help by other races, Get 3 or 4 guys to run LOW WAY LOW, like bumping the inner berrior grass tires whatever is there get that low, This will thow marbles up to where everyone elce is running causing them to end up off the track and you groop of guys taking an easy win. This normaly takes a ton of work on setup that will keep you guys fast enoguh to stay competitive. But will lead to an easy win. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r_flagel222 Posted April 14, 2008 Report Share Posted April 14, 2008 nos, buy ten pounds -do u mean ten more then the other side? ok... setup like this- front wheels on ground and rears on scales with bar under no preload... say left rear is 105 pounds and right rear is 106 . you are sayingto add preload to bring eft rear up to 115 lbs correct? im just looking at theory here and numbers are fictatious.... nos have you worked any with rear spacing? it helped me last year during dry slick.... i pulled right rear nut off spindle and put tie and spindle on backwards. hook was great... but bogged too much on a tacky track...im curious if what that will do to the weighting of the rear?... gotta check that one out! i plan on spending some time in the garage figuring all this out... cause i know in helps alot with the shees thanks again..... RYAN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NOS_350x Posted April 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2008 nos, buy ten pounds -do u mean ten more then the other side? ok... setup like this- front wheels on ground and rears on scales with bar under no preload... say left rear is 105 pounds and right rear is 106 . you are sayingto add preload to bring eft rear up to 115 lbs correct? im just looking at theory here and numbers are fictatious.... nos have you worked any with rear spacing? it helped me last year during dry slick.... i pulled right rear nut off spindle and put tie and spindle on backwards. hook was great... but bogged too much on a tacky track...im curious if what that will do to the weighting of the rear?... gotta check that one out! i plan on spending some time in the garage figuring all this out... cause i know in helps alot with the shees thanks again..... RYAN You want it 10 lbs diffrence, SO left rear would have 104 the right rear would be 114. After making an adjustmen on the bar push the front end down, then the back and see where it sets to. I havent tryed sucking the left side in. I know alot of racers do but i would do all my adjusment with the swaybar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r_flagel222 Posted April 14, 2008 Report Share Posted April 14, 2008 (edited) You want it 10 lbs diffrence, SO left rear would have 104 the right rear would be 114. After making an adjustmen on the bar push the front end down, then the back and see where it sets to. I havent tryed sucking the left side in. I know alot of racers do but i would do all my adjusment with the swaybar. Thanks again nos... once i do this i will let you know what i came up with..... RYAN ohh yeah... i cant wait to stick it to them 450's this year! its gonna be great! Edited April 14, 2008 by r_flagel222 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r_flagel222 Posted April 18, 2008 Report Share Posted April 18, 2008 nos............ i got some time in the garage today after work. with the setup i have as of now two full turns of preload on the right front equals an average of 5.26 pounds on the left rear. i was curious if that was close to what your rate of change is? i still havent been able to check the change from fliping hub around, but i will soon...... Again thanks for the help RYAN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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