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re-sleeving


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hey guys

 

ive got some banshee barrels that have a killer port job, but they are on their last bore

 

there isnt much meat left in the the transfer runners, ie, alot of the aluminium that is in contact with the iron sleeve is gone, the outside of the sleeve has even been made thinner and re-shaped where it drops down into the crank case.

 

070725005.jpg

 

070725009.jpg

 

has anyone ever re-sleeved a barrel like this b4? do you think it can be done with all that material missing?

 

thanks, mark

Edited by 4stroker
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why, coz it aint all pretty and smooth?

 

they actually run really hard

 

so back to the actual topic at hand: do the people out there who know what they are talking about, think these can be re-sleeved?

 

thanks, mark

 

 

No because as you said there is alot missing. Maybe its the angle Im seeing it makes it look worse than it is. Are you looking for peoples opinion or just what you want to hear? Hey man theyll be fine to resleeve. Id go for it. That feel better?

 

 

 

In all seriousness. Good luck with them. Let us know how it turns out. It really is a good question.

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Im no engine porter but Id say those are junk.

 

sorry i thought you were commenting on the port job itself, rather than the question of them being sleevable or not

 

they arent junk at the moment, they are on 66.0mm bore, and have run hard and been reliable. but i want to go to a 4mm crank with 5mm rods, and because of the high port timings already i cannot use a spacer plate, so have to use 795 series pistons. correct me if im wrong but i believe the biggest 795 piston you can get is a 66.0mm...

 

can you get a wiseco hot rods stroker crank with stock length rods? if not and i make one, will the pistons hit the crank wheels at BDC?

 

i know you can get bigger bore sizes with blaster pistons, which would work with the +5mm rods, but im having domes made now for the 795 piston set up, and the blasters piston crown profile is different, and id need new domes for blaster pistons then. which probably wouldnt be so bad, but yeah....

 

anyway guess i just answered my own question lol: if it cant be sleeved ill just use blaster pistons and get new domes made!

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sorry i thought you were commenting on the port job itself, rather than the question of them being sleevable or not

 

they arent junk at the moment, they are on 66.0mm bore, and have run hard and been reliable. but i want to go to a 4mm crank with 5mm rods, and because of the high port timings already i cannot use a spacer plate, so have to use 795 series pistons. correct me if im wrong but i believe the biggest 795 piston you can get is a 66.0mm...

 

can you get a wiseco hot rods stroker crank with stock length rods? if not and i make one, will the pistons hit the crank wheels at BDC?

 

i know you can get bigger bore sizes with blaster pistons, which would work with the +5mm rods, but im having domes made now for the 795 piston set up, and the blasters piston crown profile is different, and id need new domes for blaster pistons then. which probably wouldnt be so bad, but yeah....

 

anyway guess i just answered my own question lol: if it cant be sleeved ill just use blaster pistons and get new domes made!

 

I dont now if they can be resleeved. Send a pic to a couple resleeving comanys. Like LA Sleeve or Northwestern or Northern Sleeve Company ( cant remeber the exact name). Resleeving isnt an economical choice, but I did it. Bought a set of Patriot Racing 4mill Drag Ported cylinders that needed resleeved due to a cracked sleeve. I sent them back to Dan at Patriot Racing and had Big Bore sleeves installed. Fist bore is 66mm and last bore is 68mm.

 

If your going to get them resleeved why not do a big bore sleeve and run just blaster pistons. Start out a 66mm. If you go any bigger than 66mm you need big bore domes for you cool head any way.

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are those RZ cylinders?? In the second pic it looks to be where the powervalve would go...

 

About your question, since on the oem banshee cylinder the aluminum is cast around the sleeve, so therefore they actually bore the cylinder until there is no sleeve left then press in the new one...my opinion on this is i think it would be risky, seems like there is not going to be much support left after the stock sleeve is bored out, look like the actual cylinder itself might just break when pressin in the new sleeve.

 

But your best bet is just going to take them somewhere and see what they say like jbooker82 already said.

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are those RZ cylinders?? In the second pic it looks to be where the powervalve would go...

 

About your question, since on the oem banshee cylinder the aluminum is cast around the sleeve, so therefore they actually bore the cylinder until there is no sleeve left then press in the new one...my opinion on this is i think it would be risky, seems like there is not going to be much support left after the stock sleeve is bored out, look like the actual cylinder itself might just break when pressin in the new sleeve.

 

But your best bet is just going to take them somewhere and see what they say like jbooker82 already said.

 

LA sleeve just did mine but it cost more because they have to be port matched. i was in the same boat about a month ago. get ready to pay some money!

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LA sleeve just did mine but it cost more because they have to be port matched. i was in the same boat about a month ago. get ready to pay some money!

 

When resleeving a banshee you bore the stock sleeve out to the od of the new sleeve (-.002-.003 in) and drop in the new one, some of the old sleeve remains. If the old sleeve gets too thin it will buldge out as the cutter passes by, which is probably ok since it will actually leave more material. If it gets really thin the old sleve will rip out in that area. Offer to buy the shop a new cutter or make sure the one they are using is very sharp and they take light cuts. Even if some of the old sleve were to be damaged the new sleeve should be able to hold up, maybe do not take the new sleeve to 66 and stop at 65.5.

 

I do not think matching the new sleeve to the port job would be killer hard, It gives them a "template" to work with. They should record the current timings and make sure they match that though.

 

Good luck

B

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like everyone else said, being mechanical and having a sold understanding in tooling equipment and fixing things/how it works. if you brought those to me, i wouldnt want to bore them and press a new cylinder in. bore them you might get that far but the pressure a new sleeve is putting on the aluminum as it is pressein is crazy, with alot of fluid film, they might, go in.

 

like was suggested by yourself. if you can fix them without a resleeve, thats your best bet because otherwise they could end up total junk sitting on NYUK's display motor.

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like everyone else said, being mechanical and having a sold understanding in tooling equipment and fixing things/how it works. if you brought those to me, i wouldnt want to bore them and press a new cylinder in. bore them you might get that far but the pressure a new sleeve is putting on the aluminum as it is pressein is crazy, with alot of fluid film, they might, go in.

 

like was suggested by yourself. if you can fix them without a resleeve, thats your best bet because otherwise they could end up total junk sitting on NYUK's display motor.

 

 

Uhhhh...... :huh:

Read TDRs (sleeve manufacture) Comments on DROPPING in (not Pressing) a sleeve.

 

Quoted from their site

CYLINDER SLEEVE INSTALLATION PROCEDURE

Step 1. The cylinder must be stripped of all removable parts: studs, nuts, bolts, manifolds, etc.

Step 2. The cylinder is bored out to accept the sleeve. When the sleeve is installed into an all

aluminum cylinder, the interference fit is .004. When the sleeve is being installed into a

cast iron cylinder bore, the interference fit is .002 to .003.

The interference fit is determined by measuring the outside diameter of the sleeve, then

boring the cylinder diameter smaller than the sleeve.

The interference fit is a critical aspect of sleeve installation because this step insures

that the sleeve does not move when in the cylinder. Also, proper interference fit is

important for cylinder cooling purposes.

Step 3. The cylinder is then heated in an oven between 400o, up to 450o for an hour or more.

Do not use a torch or hot plate for this procedure. It is important that the cylinder heats

uniformly.

Step 4. The cylinder is then removed from the oven and the sleeve will drop easily into the cylinder.

Turning the sleeve by hand to line up the ports is a common practice, or you can use a

needle nose type device to align the ports.

You will have between five and ten seconds before the sleeve and cylinder lock up.

Step 5. The cylinder must then be put under a hydraulic press to keep the sleeve from rising while

the cylinder is cooling.

Step 6. The ports of the sleeve must then be blended with the cylinder by using an assortment of

hand grinding porting tools. Mismatched ports will cause some power loss to the engine.

Step 7. After the ports have been matched, the cylinder (sleeve) must be bored out and honed to

insure proper piston clearance.

Measure your piston at the skirt to properly bore the sleeved cylinder to the correct

bore size. Chamfer the edges of all the ports to prevent the rings from catching on a sharp

edge.

Next, hone your cylinder to the correct piston clearance.

Properly sleeved cylinders can use the O.E.M. recommended piston clearance. If you

have a doubt, add a half thousandth (.0005) to the clearance.

Step 8. As an added finishing touch, surface decking the top of the cylinder is recommended in

order to make sure that the head gasket will sit flat on the cylinder to create a good sealing

surface.

Make sure you only take the minimum cut off the top of the cylinder.

 

 

http://www.bansheedepot.com/products.asp?cat=45

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thats a great post!

 

thanks for all the replies guys.

 

i will take them into my local machine shop when i get a chance, have been working out of town lately so its a PITA.

 

will let you all know what they say

 

thanks again, mark

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Uhhhh...... :huh:

Read TDRs (sleeve manufacture) Comments on DROPPING in (not Pressing) a sleeve.

 

 

Inthemail,

My appologies, I did not intend to sound so cocky when responding, I guess that is what happens when I am in the middle of a meeting at work while typing a responce.

B

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