What to look for when evaluating used banshee?

[kaptaink]

Hi,

I just found this site while doing a little research on an '01 Banshee. I am not a quad rider (YET!) and I am looking locally at a mostly stock machine for around $2k-$2.5k

 

I have no experience with these machines and I am looking for advice on how to do a fairly thorough exam of it's condition before I make an offer. Beyond checking for leaks, obvious drive problems, and a good long test ride, I'm not sure what else I can do to avoid a bad deal. The machine is said to have a fresh rebuild on the engine but I wouldn't know how to tell.

Thanks for any help you can give me! Also, does that price range sound about right for a mostly stock machine in 'good' condition in the midwest? Seems like it could be an okay deal from what I've seen so far.

 

Thanks.

[Fireroad Express]

check compression(should be well over 100psi, the higher the better) check for broken engine case from chain breaking around front sprocket,check for side to side play in swing-arm. check for bent rear axel.(you can feel it on the test ride). look for coolant leaks around the head and cylinders. make sure carbs are cleaned and serviced before you ride if you buy the machine.if its in real good condition $2000 is a fair deal.

Edited February 24, 2008 by the grinch

[IrideA250R]

in addition to above...check axle bearings for play by sticking a box under the rear shock linkage, check front a arm bushing for play, check shock bushings for play, and check front wheel bearings for play. Check cleanliness of air filter (says a lot about maintenance)

[kaptaink]

Thank you very much!

[Lepew]

I also look for indications of abuse or inexperinenced care like bent steering stem stop, bent frame at the grab bar, and screws messed up from using the wrong size or worn out screwdriver on them. I look for indications the cases have been split, if they appear to have it takes value away for me.

[rubberneck]

This is what i do, grab each front tire and shake back and forth/front to back. You are looking for play/clunks. this can indicate bad wheel bearings/ball joints/ tie rod ends or a-arm bushings. wiggle the bars back and forth, front to back checking for play in the steering stem. If you feel any play, try to look and see where its coming from. Inspect the frame looking for any obvious bends/ big dents. Grab the rear grab bar and pick up. if it clunks at the top, you could have worn cradle/link or shock bushings. push back and forth and see if there is any play in the swingarm/frame. Put it up on blocks and turn the rear tires make sure everything is free, no clunks. Inspect the condition of the chain sprockets/rollers guides. Look for damage to the engine cases around the front sprocket indicating a thrown chain at one time.

 

Pull the dipstick and smear some oil on a clean white surface or your fingers. If it is milky, it could indicate water in the oil. If it is gray it probably has a wasted clutch. Metal flakes, could be trans clutch anything. If it is dark and nasty, probably hasnt had the best maintenance. Check for any obvious oil/water leaks. Now go ride it. run it through the gears, make sure it shifts nice. Come to a stop with the clutch pulled in and rev the bike in first gear. If it tries to creep forward, clutch is dragging, could be a grooved up clutch basket.

 

If everything is looking pretty good by this point, shut it down, pull both plugs out and do a compression test. With both plugs out of machine, give it full throttle and kick the living hell out of it untill the compression guage stops rising. At sea level you want to see 120-130 PSI on a fresh top end. You shouldnt see more than a 5 psi diff from cylinder to cylinder either.

 

Keep in mind that any couple of these problems arent' really that big of a deal, and are to be expected on a used bike, just factor the cost of repair in when/if you make an offer. In my area, a 2000-2500 dollar bike is probably going to have a lot of the above problems. A pretty nice stockish bike goes for 3000-3500.