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Chariot performance? Any good?


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I received my billet timing plate from Chariot today and it installed flawlessly, much better than stripping out screws on the cast Ricky Stator one!

 

 

Ricky stator now uses Grade 8 allenhead bolts to hold the stator to the plate, stripping issues were the china philips bolts not the plate afaik...Unless your talking about mounting the plate to the bike itself which uses the stock screws?

Edited by Justintoxicated
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I have a friend who has had 5, yes 5 different Ricky Stator stators and timing plates. Each time a ride of his was ruined by the screws breaking, stripping, or falling out. The last one had the grade 8 bolts, he applied loctite and torqued them to spec, and they still stripped and fell out.

 

Since RS started getting their stuff from China and not rewinding them themselves, they have totally gone in the gutter quality wise. It's really too bad because I used to really push RS products 4-5 years ago.

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I have a friend who has had 5, yes 5 different Ricky Stator stators and timing plates. Each time a ride of his was ruined by the screws breaking, stripping, or falling out. The last one had the grade 8 bolts, he applied loctite and torqued them to spec, and they still stripped and fell out.

 

Since RS started getting their stuff from China and not rewinding them themselves, they have totally gone in the gutter quality wise. It's really too bad because I used to really push RS products 4-5 years ago.

 

how the shit do you strip a grade 8 allenhead bolt? I have been through a few stators too over the last 8 years and he is still warrantying my origional stator, I now have a spare 200 watt though.... problem is no one else is making high output banshee stators.... I can see by the crappy china philips bolts why they were stripping but how the hell do you strip a grade 8 bolt when the part your threading into is softer? I mean grade 8 should be completely overkill for holding the stator... They also have locking washers, thats ridiculous they they could still back out with locktight and lockwashers, and stripping out a grade 8 bolt going into softer cast steel is just crazy....

 

Are you saying the timing plate itself was stripped or the bolt cause i don't think you can go much farther beyond grade 8? I have a feeling most bolts are made in china no matter who you get the parts from....If it's the plate itself that is stripping, then good luck going to a softer metal like aluminum.

 

I suppose the next step then is to drill out the stator and timing plate and re-thread them with a tap and go to a longer wider bolt + add locknut to the back? Know any companies selling anything like that? Please let me know.

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the plate stripped, not the bolt. Then the bolt fell off inside and ruined another flywheel and stator. They were always real nice and warrantied the stators, but enough is enough. There are other companies out there winding stators like Ricky Stator used to back in the day.

 

This is totally off topic, but I'm considering winding my own stator when I decide to go high output. It shouldn't be too hard.

Edited by IrideA250R
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I haven't had any problems with my RS timing plate per say, I'm on my second stator from them..and I keep an OEM spare handy at all times...

 

I love the look of my Chariot Head, and I can tell you the chrome version is well worth the few extra bucks.

 

I've always liked the look of the Cheetah Cylinder heads...flat, but the middle rises up, these remind me of them.

Here's some pics...(it's COLD here...sorry for the finger prints...etc. Hard to wipe the chrome down when it's 15 degrees out...)

 

pict0005no0.jpg

pict0006cj4.jpg

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I don't want to hijack this thread but want to clear up the misconception that two-piece heads are prone to leaking.

 

A properly manufactured and installed two piece head is no more likely to leak. When sealing washers and flanged acorn nuts are used, the 'stud' orings aren't even necessary. I include them because some people still want to use them.

 

Both the one-piece and two-piece heads rely on the washers and acorn nuts to prevent coolant from leaking up through the studs.

 

-David

I'll back Dave up on this point. I agree 100%.

 

THe only reason I even tried to run a Chariot head was to see one in person. :geek:

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THe only reason I even tried to run a Chariot head was to see one in person. :geek:

 

I'd still like to know which dealer you purchased that head from. This is the only head I've heard of with that dome fitting problem. Triple plate chrome is very difficult to use on high tolerance parts but is working great-we have a great chromer. You may have had one of the first three made which would have a tight fit on the domes. I am still offering to make up for the trouble you had. How can I do this?

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I'd still like to know which dealer you purchased that head from. This is the only head I've heard of with that dome fitting problem. Triple plate chrome is very difficult to use on high tolerance parts but is working great-we have a great chromer. You may have had one of the first three made which would have a tight fit on the domes. I am still offering to make up for the trouble you had. How can I do this?

The dealer was the, seemingly only one, that sells on eBay. I'll have to get you the eBay user name when I get home from this business trip that I am stuck on. :thumbsup:

 

Don't worry about making it up to me. I wound up being even financially at the end of the day and I have several of my old heads laying around, so I don't lose any time on the engine. I am not really upset about any of this deal, it just sounds like I got stuck with a head from the early stages of production. :geek:

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  • 4 weeks later...
Don't know if you're going to have the same problem or not. The front studs as you know are longer than the other 8. I had acorn nuts I was already using for my stocker. The front two would not thread down, ran out of thread... I used two of mine on the front.

 

We have had a to replace a couple acorn nuts because of the threads not going deep enough. We just had some custom nuts made that are true quality chrome plated steel acorn nuts 3/16" taller and beefier in diameter. These are the nicest nuts out there. All our heads going out will have these at no extra charge. These nuts and washer sets will be listed on Ebay for $18.00. If you have one of our heads and can produce a reciept we will send you a set for free.

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when did you make this change? I just got one of your heads a couple weeks ago and noticed a couple of the nuts were difficult to put on (but went on and did torque down just fine)

Just got the nuts in a couple days ago. The problem with the previous nuts was that the second batch purchased wasn't to spec on thread depth and wasn't obvious till some heads came back with that problem. We went ahead and made sure not to have a problem like this buy having custom AMERICAN MADE nuts with the chrome and stronger for the big motors. It is bad when even fasteners aren't good from china.

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What dealer did you purchase your head from? The first three heads from the chromer would have tight dome areas and we milled the other heads slightly larger to accomodate the chrome and addressed the chrome specs. Your's is the only head I've heard about having a problem with dome fitment. We would be glad to make it right. What can we do for you?

 

 

I thought i would add here.

I like the look's of the head but it would not work with my K&T domesno matter what i would do.

 

The K&T dome's are actually dome's and are not stepped down like the pro design ones and that was the problem i am guess because of clearance issue's.

 

But i ended up selling it to my freind and he put it on his bike with some Pd domes and worked like a charm.

Edited by BBIII
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