DjLeOo Posted February 1, 2008 Report Posted February 1, 2008 Guys havent been on here in a while !! Hello to all the Banshee owners out there !!!! Im having an issue with my rear back brake ... maybe someone can answer this !! havent run the banshee in like 3 months ( it was working b4)!! now that is dry put new break pads in.. when i went to bleed the brakes pump pump pump and the shifter doesnt get hard ... also noticed the caliper wasnt moving !! took everything apart opened the caliper seals are good caliper moves up and down fine .. put it back together and nothing... any opinions ?? is it the master cylinder is there a way to chk if the master cyl is bad ?? Thanks Quote
dajogejr Posted February 1, 2008 Report Posted February 1, 2008 Those parts generally don't wear out... if you cleaned all the holes and took apart the master assembly, that should be good. Honestly....a mitivac kit from the auto parts store does WONDERS trying to bleed your brakes. Especially if you have a real long rear brake line for a long swinger.... I gave up trying to bleed mine on my 14 over arm, bought a 25 dollar mitivac kit, SOOO Much easier.... Quote
MILO Posted February 2, 2008 Report Posted February 2, 2008 are you sure you're bleeding them right? don't be offended but i've seen guys misunderstand how to bleed the brakes right. if it worked fine b4 the pad change and that's all you did there shouldn't be any issues. i was just wondering why you decided to bleed the line after changing pads anyway? it's not necessary with just a pad change. i'm assuming that ... 1. you have the res cap off 2. the res is full so that when fluid draws in it doesn't draw air also 3. open the bleeder 4. compress the pedal 5 close the bleeder 6. return the pedal to normal position 7 check res level and fill if needed 8. repeat, repeat, repeat, repeat, repeat............................ if the res cap is back on, the caliper and master are clean and ok, and there's no leaks anywhere, and there is still no pressure to the pedal or no braking happening, then :shrug: it just sounds to me like there is still air in the line. bleed it again. Quote
Bansh-eman Posted February 2, 2008 Report Posted February 2, 2008 you dont need to get a mityvac for the rear, fill your resy and cup your hands over the top and get a good seal and blow into the resy. make sure when you do this the bleeder valve is open. this will help force fluid into the hose. once you start getting fluid to come out the bleeder close it off and bleed like normal Quote
FireHead Posted February 2, 2008 Report Posted February 2, 2008 are you sure you're bleeding them right? don't be offended but i've seen guys misunderstand how to bleed the brakes right. if it worked fine b4 the pad change and that's all you did there shouldn't be any issues. i was just wondering why you decided to bleed the line after changing pads anyway? it's not necessary with just a pad change. i'm assuming that ... 1. you have the res cap off 2. the res is full so that when fluid draws in it doesn't draw air also 3. open the bleeder 4. compress the pedal 5 close the bleeder 6. return the pedal to normal position 7 check res level and fill if needed 8. repeat, repeat, repeat, repeat, repeat............................ if the res cap is back on, the caliper and master are clean and ok, and there's no leaks anywhere, and there is still no pressure to the pedal or no braking happening, then :shrug: it just sounds to me like there is still air in the line. bleed it again. Good Post! Quote
FireHead Posted February 2, 2008 Report Posted February 2, 2008 you dont need to get a mityvac for the rear, fill your resy and cup your hands over the top and get a good seal and blow into the resy. make sure when you do this the bleeder valve is open. this will help force fluid into the hose. once you start getting fluid to come out the bleeder close it off and bleed like normal If you are willing to elevate and/or move your bike and/or brake parts around, you don't need a MIghtyVac for an OEM brake system. However, if you have fooled around with line routing or have manufactured your own brake parts, then you may need to vaccum bleed the thing. I have designed several brake parts and brake systems that can't be bled without vacuum, but those are long stories............... Quote
Bansh-eman Posted February 2, 2008 Report Posted February 2, 2008 your talking about those air brake systems you made to stop all our pirate hookers from running away right? Quote
FireHead Posted February 2, 2008 Report Posted February 2, 2008 your talking about those air brake systems you made to stop all our pirate hookers from running away right? ............do you mean my Swedish Penis Englarger pump? :ninja: Quote
DjLeOo Posted February 4, 2008 Author Report Posted February 4, 2008 ............do you mean my Swedish Penis Englarger pump? :ninja: Thanks for the Replies and tips !! Im gonna try it out again this weekend !!! Ill let you guys know how it goes !! Thanks Again !! Quote
Eric6272 Posted February 9, 2008 Report Posted February 9, 2008 Im not tryin to hijack your thread at all...but on my rear brake i cant get the piston all the way back in so i can get the new pads to fit on....any tricks to doing this? Thanks guys Quote
FireHead Posted February 9, 2008 Report Posted February 9, 2008 Im not tryin to hijack your thread at all...but on my rear brake i cant get the piston all the way back in so i can get the new pads to fit on....any tricks to doing this? Thanks guys Have you tried using a c-clamp to compress the piston? :geek: Quote
Eric6272 Posted February 9, 2008 Report Posted February 9, 2008 Have you tried using a c-clamp to compress the piston? :geek: Ya that was what i was thinkin of next...just didnt wanna fuck anything up. ive done that on my truck just wanst sure if you can do it on 4wheelers too. Have you had this problem b4? Quote
FireHead Posted February 9, 2008 Report Posted February 9, 2008 Ya that was what i was thinkin of next...just didnt wanna fuck anything up. ive done that on my truck just wanst sure if you can do it on 4wheelers too. Have you had this problem b4? Most ATV calipers have that problem (it's nmot really a problem). Just open up the bleeder and compress the piston. :thumbsup: Quote
MILO Posted February 10, 2008 Report Posted February 10, 2008 i usually take off the res cap and press it in. if you can't do it by hand a lg pair of channel locks or a small c-clamp will do the trick. the problem i have more often is getting the mounting plate to press back in far enough to be able to get it back over the rotor without it rubbing the rotor. but the same tricks usually work just as well for that. Quote
[email protected] Posted February 10, 2008 Report Posted February 10, 2008 sounds like a rig but i do this , connect a small tube from the bleeder valve and put it into a bowl of break fluid , fill resivoir and pump until system is primed...... then do as normal. it works 4 me whaever Quote
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