Rex789 Posted December 11, 2007 Report Posted December 11, 2007 (edited) hey i got a new 42 tooth rear sproket on the way (stock chain and stock front sproket) and a new rear brake rotor with new brake pads... i have the service manual all printed out but i wanted to get some advice from all you guys before i start takin shit apart n fuckin it all up. so how should i go about doin this? as well as puttin it all back together? Or should I take it to the stealership or shop n have them do it? Edited December 11, 2007 by Rex789 Quote
samc Posted December 11, 2007 Report Posted December 11, 2007 all you do it the flat pieces that holds the bolt in place, bend that back and take out the bolts, then when you finish putting the new sprocket on, bend them tabs back Quote
BenBB Posted December 11, 2007 Report Posted December 11, 2007 Or should I take it to the stealership or shop n have them do it? Blasphemy!! It ain't that hard, quick rundown: soak the rotor bolts and sprocket bolts overnight with lizard piss (penetrating oil), find the right size allen wrench for the rotor bolts (I like the 3/8" socket drives, dunno the size offhand but it's like 6mm or something) and break them loose, use a punch/screwdriver to bend the lock tabs off the sprocket nuts, loosen the nuts, prop up the rearend and pull the wheels (pretty sure both the rotor and sprocket will clear the hubs so no need pulling them), loosen and back off the chain adjuster 10mm nuts and 12mm bolts, remove sprocket bolts and replace sprocket, tighten bolts and bend the tabs back on the nuts, remove brake caliper 12mm bolts, replace rotor (at LEAST blue loctite on those allen-head bolts, if not red), remove cap on rear brake reservoir and push the caliper piston in, unbend the tabs on the caliper pin bolts and remove them, swap out the pads, replace pin bolts (add disc brake grease if desired), re-bend the lock tabs on the bolts, stick the caliper back in place, top off fluid if necessary, replace brake ressy cap, replace wheels/tires, adjust chain (ugh), don't forget to tighten the chain adjustment bolts/nuts (I use blue loctite), and ride. There is at least one potential snag in the game plan; the stock 104(?) link chain might not wanna reach with the bigger rear sprocket, if it's got some wear you're probably ok but if it's real new you might not be able to get it on there...nothing a little hogging out the adjustment slots on the swinger with a dremel won't fix but ya didn't hear that from me haha! Better than running a half link though...although I've allegedly done that as well... Quote
Rex789 Posted December 12, 2007 Author Report Posted December 12, 2007 haha nice thanx for the very detailed explanation... hopefully ill be able to comprehend it all and not fuck anything up. sounds like its kinda hard (maybe just cuz im confused) but hopefully i dont fuck anything up... and i have the stock chain on, its a 2003 so its got wear. hopefully (i think) the chain will fit around the new sproket. do i really have to soak the bolts with penetrating oil the night before? what will that do? loctite on the rotor bolts only? not loctite the sproket bolts too? and what do you mean about adjusting the chain and useing loctite on the bolts? and i need to bend the sproket lock tabs off the sproket nuts by using a screwdriver? Quote
BenBB Posted December 12, 2007 Report Posted December 12, 2007 haha nice thanx for the very detailed explanation... hopefully ill be able to comprehend it all and not fuck anything up. sounds like its kinda hard (maybe just cuz im confused) but hopefully i dont fuck anything up... and i have the stock chain on, its a 2003 so its got wear. hopefully (i think) the chain will fit around the new sproket. do i really have to soak the bolts with penetrating oil the night before? what will that do? loctite on the rotor bolts only? not loctite the sproket bolts too? and what do you mean about adjusting the chain and useing loctite on the bolts? and i need to bend the sproket lock tabs off the sproket nuts by using a screwdriver? No it's cake just take your time. Every time I've tried to take the rotor bolts off they are a bitch, there's some kind of factory loctite on 'em and the penetrating oil will help loosen it. Plus stripping allen bolts is a bitch and a half. Yes loctite the rotor bolts. No loctite isn't necessary on the sprocket bolts since they have a mechanical lock (the tabs that you bend against the nut to keep it from backing out); yes use a screwdriver or punch to bend them back against the flat side of the nut (look at them before you take 'em off to see what I'm talkin' about, they have two different tabs you can bend up depending on where the flat spot is on the nut when it's tightened up, just pick one and hammer it tight up against the flat on the nut). I use blue loctite on the chain adjustment jam nut: ya know how you have the two longish bolts that use a 12mm wrench sticking straight back on the axle carrier, run them in or out to adjust the chain (oops I kinda left out the part where you have to loosen the two big carrier bolts), get it where you want it and tighten both carrier bolts (I use loctite on those two nuts even though they are locknuts), then run that little nuts all the way down with a 10mm wrench and loctite that little bastard too. Quote
Rex789 Posted December 12, 2007 Author Report Posted December 12, 2007 nice thanx for all the help man i appreciate it, im going to my shee next week and thats when im going to be doing all this, along with a coolhead installment. so im gonna be pretty busy with my baby haha, but ill let you know how everything goes and if i fuck something up and need some more advice. thanx again Quote
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