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Posted

TORS are unhooked,

the bike idles perfect,

 

but touch the gas and she will rev up like i have the throttle held wide open.

 

i checked for air leaks. but none.

carbs are cleaned and re-cleaned.

sliders seem to be going up and down smoothly.

and when she is wide open the sliders are down.

 

umm. im pretty sure thats all shes doing.

 

any help fellas?

Posted (edited)
how are your pilots and air screws?

 

 

 

Does any one know the specs on the air screws?..........cause if you knew what they were you could adjust them and try it out.....thats if they have been fooled with...

Edited by wheels
Posted
how are your pilots and air screws?

 

 

pilots have been cleaned and re-cleaned.

aire screws are right i think.. 2 and a half turns for the climate in newfoundland

Posted
pilots have been cleaned and re-cleaned.

aire screws are right i think.. 2 and a half turns for the climate in newfoundland

 

 

Air screw settings will change with the seasons and temps. Sounds like you may have a cable issue. If you still have the TORS carb tops, they can hang up inside. Might try looking into the carbs and hit the throttle with the bike off and see what is going on. You may also be experiencing lean run on from an air leak. Would sound similar to bike running out of fuel. Probably because it is.

 

 

 

Brandon

Posted

sounds like the tors strikes again!

just unhooking the elctrical connections is not enough, you need to totally eliminate the housing on top of the carbs, which are full of throttle cables and over engineered bullshit, theres too much to go wrong, get a tors eliminator kit and go from there

Posted

I think I would find the source of the problem before I throw parts and cash at the problem. TORS get a bad rap because of a lack of understanding of the circuit. Once you can determine the TORS boxes on the carbs need repair, you will find they are rather easy to repair and adjust.

 

 

Brandon

Posted

Take the air filter and air box off and start it up.

Now obviously this will lean it out...but you should be able to start the bike with the seat removed, touch the throttle...

If the slides stick, you'll see it. If the slides go down as normal...then you have a serious air leak.

Posted

thanks for the replys guys but i think ive come across the problem.. i didnt completly unhook the tors system, last night me and my buddy looked over the bike. followed a wire up to the throttle.. hauled off the top case to take a look inside and theres that little button like thing. unhooked that and she ran fine afterwards.

 

cables arent sticking or slides arent sticking.

 

just a simple little thing that i didnt see.

 

so i unhooked everything possible thing that had to do with the tors. electrical wise.

 

as of now she runs good. no WOT anymore. well i hope not.

i tryed it last night and she didnt do it. tryed it tonight and she didnt do it. so im hoping this problem is resolved.

 

ill let you know what happends after a weekend run.

this issue has already ruined 2 runs on me. no i know what you fellas mean when tors SHIT.

im still looking into the removal kit just to be on the safe side of things.

Posted

okay scrap my last post.

bike still goes WOT,

im fuckng sick of this bullshit.

ruins another ride for me.

 

tonight im taking everything off from the reeds back top the air box to check for leaks/cracks.

 

whats a good site to get the eliminator kit?

Posted

found a cracked gasket between the reeds and the carb intake boots

 

also i found that i put the wrong sliders in the wrong carbs.

 

 

could that also make her go WOT?

 

make it run like the choke was on thats for sure. but still ran.

Posted
found a cracked gasket between the reeds and the carb intake boots

 

also i found that i put the wrong sliders in the wrong carbs.

could that also make her go WOT?

 

make it run like the choke was on thats for sure. but still ran.

 

 

I really doubt in the intake gasket just cracked. Probably tore during removal. Carb slides will cause huge running issues but would not cause a WFO condition. I still think you have a frayed cable or something. I do not fully understand what it's doing. You hit full throttle and it does not come down or you barely touch the throttle and it goes WFO on it's own? I really think an experienced tuner could tell you in about 5sec. A bad thottle cable will do this.

 

Are you sure the clutch basket or flywheel are not on basakwards??

 

 

Brandon

Posted
I really doubt in the intake gasket just cracked. Probably tore during removal. Carb slides will cause huge running issues but would not cause a WFO condition. I still think you have a frayed cable or something. I do not fully understand what it's doing. You hit full throttle and it does not come down or you barely touch the throttle and it goes WFO on it's own? I really think an experienced tuner could tell you in about 5sec. A bad thottle cable will do this.

 

Are you sure the clutch basket or flywheel are not on basakwards??

Brandon

 

the fly wheel or clutch basket hasnt been touched. ever.

 

well i give it some gas. maybe half throttle in nuetural(sp) and she will just go WOT.. hit the kill switch. pump the gas a few times and start her up and shes idleing away fine. touch the gas a to about half throttle again and WOT. how is it a frayed cable? when she goes WOT the sliders and back down to where there suppose to be at idle. but im going to try it again today. and if it happens off to yamaha for a new cable i go.

 

Make sure you put the choke tube back between the two carbs!

 

oh trust me it is haha. ive made that mistake before.

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