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Posted
You have to kick it until it stops going up...often 15 to 20 kicks or more.

 

As said, swap coil leads....see if it follows that lead.

no it stays with the right cynlinder...and i did kick it until it stopped i even kept going after it stopped to makes sure...im just realy frustraded...im having a riding party in 2 weeks and dont t=have the shee running

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Posted

it doesnt sound like an electrical problem to me... althought that doesnt rule out spark.

 

how old are your plugs? are the contacts clean? have you fouled the plugs? are the nipples screwed on tight? is the gap set right?

Posted

If the problem doesn't switch cylinders when you swap plug wires, it's not the coil.

Flywheel or Stator more than likely...

 

Are you sure it's not sparking...or is it possible it's not getting any fuel until you open the throttle some more?

Like a plugged pilot jet in the carb, which...makes starting damn near impossible. Bike should still start with 105 PSI without being pulled around...but, it's gonna take some kicks.

 

If the tester was accurate at all...it's time for a rebuild...

Posted
it doesnt sound like an electrical problem to me... althought that doesnt rule out spark.

 

how old are your plugs? are the contacts clean? have you fouled the plugs? are the nipples screwed on tight? is the gap set right?

the plugs are brand new maybe 20 mins on them and i had a huge problem beofre i smoked the crank with fouling pluigs but thats because i had a slide in backwards on the left cynlinder....so now when it does start up and i work the throttle alittle to get them both firing...it idles and fires fine which it didnt beofre i blew out the crank

Posted
it doesnt sound like an electrical problem to me... althought that doesnt rule out spark.

 

how old are your plugs? are the contacts clean? have you fouled the plugs? are the nipples screwed on tight? is the gap set right?

the plugs are brand new maybe 20 mins on them and i had a huge problem beofre i smoked the crank with fouling pluigs but thats because i had a slide in backwards on the left cynlinder....so now when it does start up and i work the throttle alittle to get them both firing...it idles and fires fine which it didnt beofre i blew out the crank

Posted
it doesnt sound like an electrical problem to me... althought that doesnt rule out spark.

 

how old are your plugs? are the contacts clean? have you fouled the plugs? are the nipples screwed on tight? is the gap set right?

the plugs are brand new maybe 20 mins on them and i had a huge problem beofre i smoked the crank with fouling pluigs but thats because i had a slide in backwards on the left cynlinder....so now when it does start up and i work the throttle alittle to get them both firing...it idles and fires fine which it didnt beofre i blew out the crank

Posted

well if your getting spark, start checking your carbs like Dave said. jets clogged? carbs synced? i just dont think its electrical. but either way your due for a new topend once you get this other problem worked out

Posted
the plugs are brand new maybe 20 mins on them and i had a huge problem beofre i smoked the crank with fouling pluigs but thats because i had a slide in backwards on the left cynlinder....so now when it does start up and i work the throttle alittle to get them both firing...it idles and fires fine which it didnt beofre i blew out the crank

 

We're still missing something...

I think your crank messed up a flywheel or stator...

 

If you have to work the throttle to get them both firing, it is not idling and firing fine....

Posted
We're still missing something...

I think your crank messed up a flywheel or stator...

 

If you have to work the throttle to get them both firing, it is not idling and firing fine....

your rights its not how do i check to see if its the flywheel or stator

Posted

im gonna up the pilot jet this week and the secondary...im running 280 with airbox lid and when i helf choke it it goes to where it should be so im gonna go 290 300 area....and 32.5 in the pilot...thats wha im ging wit first cause it will only costme 10 bucks then fuck with the stator and fywhel how do i check them

Posted

I'm 100% certain you do not need 32.5 pilots. That's three sizes larger than stock.

You MAY need 27.5...up one, but doubt it.

 

Pull the flywheel off with the correct, thread in style puller. They're 10 to 15 bucks from a dealer or ebay.

You use a mulimeter to check the ohms on the stator...

 

YOu really should get a clymers manual, the specs for this kind of thing are in there...

 

If you choke it and it runs better...the carbs are dirty...period....bigger jets won't help, cleaning the crap from teh carbs will.

Posted
I'm 100% certain you do not need 32.5 pilots. That's three sizes larger than stock.

You MAY need 27.5...up one, but doubt it.

 

Pull the flywheel off with the correct, thread in style puller. They're 10 to 15 bucks from a dealer or ebay.

You use a mulimeter to check the ohms on the stator...

 

YOu really should get a clymers manual, the specs for this kind of thing are in there...

 

If you choke it and it runs better...the carbs are dirty...period....bigger jets won't help, cleaning the crap from teh carbs will.

thanks bro i think youve actually helped me on everything2stroke...a few weeks back lol

Posted

your jets should be in the ballpark of 320 mains 27.5 pilots needle 4th clip. 2 turns on the air screw

 

32.5 is way to big... your probly not going to need to run a main as big as 320 becasue you said your runnig the air box right?

 

also check those plugs like i said in a prior post

Posted

I haven't seen where anyone has asked about the choke cross-over tube being properly connected. I have worked on more than one Banshee now that had all the symptons described above & the cross-over tube was missing!!!

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