Still not running right after rejetting

[RIPRuck]

The shee started out with only T5's and had a rebore .30 when I bought it. Within the last few weeks I installed everything in my sig including a magnum jet kit which included 300 mains and 30 pilots. I could not get it to idle correct and was told my pilots were too big and mains were way to small for my altitude and mods. Was said to go with a 27.5 pilots and 340 mains. Without the choke I have to rev it to keep it running..

 

Today I cleaned out the carbs really good, adjusted the floats and rejetted with 27.5 pilots and 340 mains.. It doesnt want to idle unless I keep the choke out on the first notch. What does that mean? I have the needle set in the middle of the 5 grooves and air screw at 1.5. When it idles better with the choke partially out doesnt it mean its lean? Help me out guys I'm ready to go crazy!!

 

It ran great with just the T5's with 270 mains and 25 pilots.. What could be wrong?

 

Tors is removed btw..

[Michael Jackson]

when u removed the TORS did u remember to unplug the black box under the radiator too? if you dont unplug that.. you will never get yourbike to idle after removing the tors on the tops....

 

im at sea leval and run 300 mains with t5's and delta force 3's and k&n if that helps at all..

[RIPRuck]

Actually I didnt.... I removed the tops of carbs and switch in the thumb throttle, tapped for the idle screws thats it! should I have removed something else? The previous owner had the parking brake disabled so I figured he had the electrical part of the tors removed! I'll check for the box under the radiator in the morning.

Edited April 21, 2007 by RIPRuck

[Michael Jackson]

there an electrical connection for the parking brake that you have to unplug when removing the parking brake assembly also. if that isnt unplugged it wont let your bike rev above like 2k rpms or someting like that, basically, u cannot go anywhere it wont rev..

 

also after you remove the tors off the top of the carbs, you got the tors removal kit right? they ar elike $30, they include new throttle cable and new carb caps. you unplug all the old connections off the top of the carbs, and then there is another connection you will see plugged in to a black box up front under the radiator, mouted on the frame, a small black box, unplug the big plastic connection running to that black box, and remove the box as well, u dont need it, unscrew it from frame

[Michael Jackson]

adjust your brass idle screw evenly, and then look through your air filter ( take it off) into your intake and watch the slides in both carbs, push the throttle in and make sure the slides are moving up and down together, in sync.

also what altitude are u at, and what is your air box set-up? lid on or o ff? holes in lid? aiur filter setup?

[RIPRuck]

I installed the TORS removal kit which included the tops, idle screws, tap and drill. The previous owner removed the parking brake stuff but the box is still there and will remove it today. I'm at 115ft above sea level, temps 55-70 and live in MA. Using K&N pods with no air box.

Edited April 21, 2007 by RIPRuck

[RIPRuck]

TORS must have been removed already cause its not there.. Wires are all still there but box is gone.

 

I did a little more messing around with it today and it still will only stay running if the choke is out on its first notch. Even like that it has terrible bottom end in the 0-1/4 throttle range. Runs like a champ in the mid and up top. Would that mean my pilots are too big? As of today pilots are 27.5, mains 340 and needle set at middle of 5 notches.

[Bansheeman1121]

Id say u need bigger pilots becuase the chokes only givin it more fuel so it makes sense thats it not gettin enough on bottom play with ur idle screws a bit before u change the pilot

[RIPRuck]

Id say u need bigger pilots becuase the chokes only givin it more fuel so it makes sense thats it not gettin enough on bottom play with ur idle screws a bit before u change the pilot

 

Really? I had 30's in there before and it made no difference and was told that they were too big.. Actually fouled the fuck out of my plugs! I would have thought the same since using the choke and it running better to use a bigger pilot but for some reason it doesnt. Should I go back down to the 25?

Edited April 22, 2007 by RIPRuck

[dajogejr]

Dumb question...but here's the basics.

Sorry if you covered this already, don't have time to parse the two threads....

 

Choke tube in place between the two carbs?

I know the TORS are removed, but are the idle screw kits installed?

Did you check to see if the idle screws are actually raising the slides (you have to grind metal off the carb for them to reach the slides)

 

Are the bowls on the right carbs?

 

Lastly, 25 or 27 pilots should work.

25s on .5 to 1.0 turn out, 27's 1.0 to 2.0 turns out....

 

You may have dirt in the pilot circuit...

[RIPRuck]

Dumb question...but here's the basics.

Sorry if you covered this already, don't have time to parse the two threads....

 

Choke tube in place between the two carbs?

I know the TORS are removed, but are the idle screw kits installed?

Did you check to see if the idle screws are actually raising the slides (you have to grind metal off the carb for them to reach the slides)

 

Are the bowls on the right carbs?

 

Lastly, 25 or 27 pilots should work.

25s on .5 to 1.0 turn out, 27's 1.0 to 2.0 turns out....

 

You may have dirt in the pilot circuit...

 

Choke tube is installed

Idle screws installed

Screws work and I grinded down the metal

Bowls are on the right carbs if the clymer is correct the one with the jet goes on the left carb

Completely cleaned carbs

 

Tomorrow I'm gonna check for an air leak and get back to yous...

 

Thanks

[Screaming Yellow Zonker]

did you happen to look through the jets before you installed them? When my bike wouldn't idle I pulled the jets and found a pilot full of crap. Just a thought

 

Good luck.