slow=banshee Posted February 3, 2007 Report Posted February 3, 2007 i have cool head with 22 cc domes... boost bottle.... v-force 2's... reed spacer..... pro cerciut pipes...and a k and n air filter......does any body else have mods simailar to theses? iss soo what numbers are you running on you main and pilot ? Quote
BansheeDan Posted February 3, 2007 Report Posted February 3, 2007 i have cool head with 22 cc domes... boost bottle.... v-force 2's... reed spacer..... pro cerciut pipes...and a k and n air filter......does any body else have mods simailar to theses? iss soo what numbers are you running on you main and pilot ? we need a lil more info.....like elevation....and location the pilot will prolly stay stock with your mods... Quote
slow=banshee Posted February 4, 2007 Author Report Posted February 4, 2007 i live in philadelphia ....well the set up right now is main = 260 and piolt = 35 stock says 200 and 25 ...... the problem with the quad now is starting difficultys... and when i finaaly do get it started in dont want to idol and bogs out on bottom end but the thing still rips ass at top end... i checked for all air leaks and came up with nothing? any body help me with this? Quote
slow=banshee Posted February 4, 2007 Author Report Posted February 4, 2007 ok i cant get this outta my head... its really bothering me... i am thinking reeds now... i had them out and if you hold them up to a light u can see a gap inbetween them so i flipped them but u can still see a small gap ... should there be absoultly no gap between the reeds and the cage? ps... i have already replace the intake gasket and got new intake boots and a new coil....... Quote
differentstrokes Posted February 4, 2007 Report Posted February 4, 2007 i live in philadelphia ....well the set up right now is main = 260 and piolt = 35 stock says 200 and 25 ...... the problem with the quad now is starting difficultys... and when i finaaly do get it started in dont want to idol and bogs out on bottom end but the thing still rips ass at top end... i checked for all air leaks and came up with nothing? any body help me with this? Your pilot is way rich, I would think a 25 would be ideal or maybe a 27.5 if you didn't have your airbox. A 35 is really big IMO. Quote
fastrthnu Posted February 4, 2007 Report Posted February 4, 2007 Your pilot is way rich, I would think a 25 would be ideal or maybe a 27.5 if you didn't have your airbox. A 35 is really big IMO. yea!!! what he said!!!^^^ Quote
slow=banshee Posted February 4, 2007 Author Report Posted February 4, 2007 ok thats what i was thinking i will order a 25 then and see what happens.... does anybody have any thing to say about the reeds though.... if there should be no gap at all inbetween the petals and the cage? thanks alot guys Quote
dajogejr Posted February 4, 2007 Report Posted February 4, 2007 A little gap is fine. A LARGE gap is not. Ditch the reed spacers and the boost bottle, neither is doing you any good. If you have an airbox with a lid, I'd say you're close on the mains. 35 is WAY too big as noted. Since it's cold there in philly as in detroit, 250 to 280 mains is probably gonna be where you end up. Quote
Banchetta Posted February 5, 2007 Report Posted February 5, 2007 Your mains should be around a 270 at 60 degrees...At our temps, you should be around a 300. Your pilots should be either a 27.5 or 30....It should start up great w/ 40 degree temps and a 35 pilot, but will run shitty and start hard once its warmed up....Make sure you slides aren't switched from one carb to the other making them backwards. Cutaway should face the air box. You might be able to drop your needles tempararily until you get your new pilots. It won't help the starting problem, but will help come into the powerband better. A 25 pilot will be too small for those pipe especially your temperature right now. You will have a very hard time starting it.. Also make sure the carb w/ the choke has the right bowl...One carb bowl (choke side) has a brass tube in it. The other carb bowl doesn't. The choke carb needs the brass tube to work properly for the choke. Quote
slow=banshee Posted February 5, 2007 Author Report Posted February 5, 2007 (edited) so today tha banshee didnt want to start at all for me so i got frustrated and thought the the base gasket might have blown.. so i pulled the top end off and found out that she is hurting..... the piston ring end gap is .70 and it should be at .18 so im ording weisco pistons tonight .20 over and thanks i am going to check the float bowls and the throttle slides tomrow... im hoping that the ploblem is that the motor is just hurting... one other question does any body know who sells the gasket that goes inbetween the intake boot and the V-force reeds ive looked at many diffrent sites and could not fine just the replacment gasket also i check the needle and the guy had it set at the 2nd slot from the bottom so i put it at the 3rd slot from the bottom Edited February 5, 2007 by slow=banshee Quote
Banchetta Posted February 5, 2007 Report Posted February 5, 2007 so today tha banshee didnt want to start at all for me so i got frustrated and thought the the base gasket might have blown.. so i pulled the top end off and found out that she is hurting..... the piston ring end gap is .70 and it should be at .18 so im ording weisco pistons tonight .20 over and thanks i am going to check the float bowls and the throttle slides tomrow... im hoping that the ploblem is that the motor is just hurting... one other question does any body know who sells the gasket that goes inbetween the intake boot and the V-force reeds ive looked at many diffrent sites and could not fine just the replacment gasket also i check the needle and the guy had it set at the 2nd slot from the bottom so i put it at the 3rd slot from the bottom You really should get a compression guage. They cost around 30-50 bucks at the auto parts stores. If your compression is lower than 120psi w/ a stock head, then you will need a rebuild. Once you have one, you'll use it quite often..While your at it, check to make sure the equalizer tube between the 2 carbs is still there. A lot of people work on carbs and lose it w/o realizing it.. Its about 1/4"x2"long and goes between the carbs. W/o it, it'll start hard and run like shit. Quote
dajogejr Posted February 5, 2007 Report Posted February 5, 2007 You really should get a compression guage. They cost around 30-50 bucks at the auto parts stores. If your compression is lower than 120psi w/ a stock head, then you will need a rebuild. Sorry Banchetta...while I respect your views and knowledge, under 120 PSI with a quality tester doesn't require a rebuild IMO. They only come with 123 to 129 PSI Stock.... Talking sea level here...BTW. I'd say under 105PSI or if the cylinders are more than 10PSI or 10% of each other difference. Under 120PSI IMO still has a lot of life left on that top end.... Quote
Banchetta Posted February 5, 2007 Report Posted February 5, 2007 I'm not one to see how much life I can get on a set of rings. I ran my shee 5 years before I did a rebuild. I had 165 psi to start and had 162 psi when I rebuilt.....Could I have gone 5 more years before another rebuild. Absolutely. But its cheaper to change rings for a merely 30-50 bucks ( as long as the cylinder isn't egg-shaped) then to wait for a ring to break because it wore too thin, and then you'll be spending 200-300 bucks to buy pistons, rings, boring, etc. thats as long as you don't hurt the crank in the process....Most broken rings will scar a cylinder to the point where it needs .020 taken out instead of .010 to clean up the scars. So instead of getting 10 bores out of a set of sleeves, you only get 5...In the long run, your better off to stay on top of the game and it'll save you money as well as not ruin a day of riding. He is at sea level, so he should see 128 psi w/ a stock head...Below 120psi and he is over 8 psi down. To me, that means that motor hasn't been rebuilt or overhauled in a LONG time...either that, the jetting is off, or someone thinks 80:1 oil ratio is plenty of oil,(not to cause a pissing match), or someone likes to rev a cold motor w/ forged pistons. But why not replace the rings and get another 10psi? Most people on here spend 200 bucks on a set of heads to gain 30 psi... But, you are right, he doen't NEED it, but I wouldn't think twice, I'd pull it apart...It only takes 4 hours, less than 50 bucks, and he will see a difference in performance w/ just the seat of the pants feel. That is just w/ 10 psi, now if he is down to 110psi. The difference will be unbelievable. My first shee had 105psi in one cylinder and 98psi in the other. I couldn't take a 250R on pavement in 500' w/ fatty pipes....Rebuilt it, and pulled the 250R by 5 bike lengths. Compression is key to a banshee. (And most motors) Not to mention, it'll start up so much better. Quote
dajogejr Posted February 5, 2007 Report Posted February 5, 2007 or someone thinks 80:1 oil ratio is plenty of oil, AMEN to that!!! I got my 96 shee in 05 with 115PSI and it started and ran great. Ripped. Beat on it all year... end of the year, they were at 110, took 5 to 8 kicks to start, warmed it up correctly...and still ran pretty good. I see your point though... Why chance it. I just think at 120PSI and sea level, someone that rides alot will be doing a LOT of re rings... I always try to err on the side of caution (especially jetting)...I just don't go that far, personally... :thumbsup: Quote
slow=banshee Posted February 6, 2007 Author Report Posted February 6, 2007 yes i agree staying on top of is key... but i just bought this quad a month a go with all the mods already done i had no idea is it was rebuilt or not....... it acctully has never been rebuilt befor.... and i do have a compression tester it checked out at 95 each cylnder at wot and 5 kicks each side.... i run 50:1 with golden spectro that also what i ran in every one of my bikes and never had any problems...i cant wait so see how its is after i finsih the rebuild... thanks Quote
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