racer Posted December 24, 2006 Report Share Posted December 24, 2006 (edited) Mig - messy and not very strong, but quick and easy. Doesn't work well on thick metal. Probably the cheapest machines.Arc - much cleaner than mig, but still some spatter. Can't do really thin stuff (like 1/16" is too thin) or aluminum. Tig - can weld all metals. Very clean and very strong welds - no spatter means you can weld in a suit and tie if you want. Hardest method to master as well as most expensive (usually). Also is VERY VERY slow. i agree with that. another plus to TIG is that you dont have to use a filler metal if you dont want to. none of the base metal burns away like in arc welding, so its possible to start a puddle and sit there and hold it all day and never burn through the metal. its a lilttle easier, for me, to weld up parts with out filler if there is no gap. then i dont have to worry about dipping my rod into the tungsten. Edited December 24, 2006 by gimmeabeer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheefreak Posted December 25, 2006 Report Share Posted December 25, 2006 i agree with that. another plus to TIG is that you dont have to use a filler metal if you dont want to. none of the base metal burns away like in arc welding, so its possible to start a puddle and sit there and hold it all day and never burn through the metal. its a lilttle easier, for me, to weld up parts with out filler if there is no gap. then i dont have to worry about dipping my rod into the tungsten. arc welders work good in the field cus they dont need a gas to burn the metal like a tig welder... tig welder is for indoor use... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wallrat Posted December 25, 2006 Report Share Posted December 25, 2006 Oh and I should add that arc welders work great on banshee frames! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racer Posted December 25, 2006 Report Share Posted December 25, 2006 arc welders work good in the field cus they dont need a gas to burn the metal like a tig welder... tig welder is for indoor use... also very true. thats a neat aspect of FCAW welding, the innershield wire creates its own shielding gas, much like stick. FCAW is the only process i ever use at home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dishman Posted December 28, 2006 Report Share Posted December 28, 2006 i have a mig and tig set up at home and at work I hate stick cause it is the dirtest form of welding(all the slag) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JET 99 Posted December 28, 2006 Report Share Posted December 28, 2006 a small 115v gmaw (mig) welder cannot generate enough energy for penetration of very thick steel. on the other hand 480v 3 phs miller 456 cv pwr supply with wire feed processor can get you into spray transfer.... 3 main catagories short circuit(low volt low wire speed) erratic arc arc occures every time tip of wire touches puddle. small and large globular(med volt setting and ipm) forms ball at end of electrode wire arc jumps puddle erratic. spray transfer .035 er70s-3 27.5 v 420 ipm 85%argon 15%co2 sweet no spatter welds on 2 in. plate 4130-4140 alloys use pre heat and post heat no crack welds great penetration nice apperance. do it on alot of cat and oil field parts we make where i work... tig (gtaw) is a very controlable welding process... mig (gmaw) easy to use but depends on application and material / fast for production type welding stick (fcaw) practical not quite as easy to use as mig, little harder to control arc and puddle (burn through) my .02c Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racer Posted January 2, 2007 Report Share Posted January 2, 2007 on the other hand 480v 3 phs miller 456 cv pwr supply with wire feed processor can get you into spray transfer.... but what hobbyist needs to build something with 2in plate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wallrat Posted January 2, 2007 Report Share Posted January 2, 2007 but what hobbyist needs to build something with 2in plate? Apparently you didn't see the trebuchet I made... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokin 2 stroke Posted January 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2007 ok i have just got confused reading all that didnt relizes to so much to it.. likw wut would be the best all a round welders for500 give or tae Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banshee00 Posted January 3, 2007 Report Share Posted January 3, 2007 http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/sto...amp;rotate=none IMO Something like that would work good for what it sounds like you'd be using it for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JET 99 Posted January 3, 2007 Report Share Posted January 3, 2007 (edited) i have a little millermatic 135 mig with 75 argon 25 co2 a little higher co2 content helps to boost arc energy.. if you prep your metal well light powered gmaw gives you good penetration up to 1/8 in metal 1/4 in starts loosing some penetration.... prep also cuts down on spatter.......... tig is still the most precise and controlable form though.. stick .... if your welding your tractor frame or implement or some structural steel ...... just a little info. my 02 pennies banshee00 is dead on....... i paid 720.00 for mine including the cart and a 60#tank (filled) you can use flux core wire but your welds will be much better in apperance and penetration with shielding gas... you dont need any fancy triple mix gas just 85%argon15%co2 or 75%arg25%co2 Edited January 3, 2007 by JET 99 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racer Posted January 3, 2007 Report Share Posted January 3, 2007 Apparently you didn't see the trebuchet I made... well then i wanna see pics matt, gahh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayzx10r Posted January 27, 2007 Report Share Posted January 27, 2007 (edited) i was wondering wut would be a good welder to start learing how... witch would be the easiest and cheapest Hi. My opinion within your parameters of inexpensive and a good first welder would be for you to pick up an inexpensive stick welder. Even though buzz box welders look the same on the outside, you do get what you pay for. I have a Miller Thunderbolt 225 I picked up at the swap meet for $90.00 that works tremendously better than my neighbors POS Sears Craftsman welder of the same amperage. Mine sounds like bacon frying when I weld (a good thing) and his sputters like a 4 stroke with a bad plug and burned out valve seats!! :yelrotflmao: So you do get what you pay for. I also have a Miller MIG setup...a Miller 200 I've owned since new and I guess you can buy a decent MIG for 10 times what you will pay for a buzz box, but you probably don't need it. With a stick welder, you purchase welding rod in the amount you need and get rod specific to your task. 6011 rod is a great all purpose rod that will burn through grease and paint but takes a bit of finesse to look good + the slag kind of sucks to chip off. 7018 generally has a smoother finish and if done right, the slag peels away on it's own. That will bring out a smile when you do it... NOTE: notice the first 2 numbers of each rod...denotes the strength. 6011= 60,000 Lbs tensile strength, 7018= 70,000 Lbs tensile strength. The last 2 numbers of each are the rod coatings. Here is an exerpt from the Miller website: "Why Stick? Stick, the most basic of welding processes, offers the easiest option for joining steel and other metals. Stick welding power sources deliver inexpensive options for welding versatility, portability and reliability. Stick joins metals when an arc is struck between the electrode and the work piece, creating a weld pool and depositing a consumable metal electrode into the joint. The electrode's protective coating also acts as a shielding gas, protecting the weld and ensuring its purity and strength. Best for windy conditions and adverse environments." In other words...perfect for a garage do-it-yourselfer. Get a Miller (my fave), or a Lincoln. In case you didn't hear... Get a Miller (my fave), or a Lincoln. With the welder should be a ground cable and clamp and a "stinger" (the cable and holder that holds the welding rod). DO NOT buy some China knock off or some other unknown branded welder from Harbor Freight or Billy Bob's Discount Tool Shack and Fishing Supply Store. You get my point... You will also need a 220 volt source, as well as a welding helmet w/shade 11 or 12 lens, and a set of good welding gloves, and some rod. 6011 is absolutely universal. http://www.millerwelds.com/pdf/PrinciplesSMAW.pdf is a file that has everything you will ever need to know as far as technique and metal prep. It is actually pretty EASY and pretty inexpensive to get into. They sell rod at Home Depot!! Hope this helps... Jay in SanD Edited January 27, 2007 by jayzx750 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim C Posted January 27, 2007 Report Share Posted January 27, 2007 I bought a Miller 175 MIG and I love it - It works great, easy to make nice beads and it will weld up to 1/4" thick metal with 1 pass so very seldom would I (or most other hobbiest) ever weld anything thicker then that. All the square tubing for my utility trailer was only 1/8" thick. I never use my stick welder anymore because they are alot slower to weld with and a pain in the ass to use compared to a good MIG. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snopczynski Posted January 28, 2007 Report Share Posted January 28, 2007 I started with a 110 volt marquette, now Im a pro. Miller, lincoln, and marquette all make nice entry level mig machines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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