OnlyA2Stroke Posted October 13, 2006 Report Posted October 13, 2006 I followed the full directions to remove the TORS. Everything was cleaned, deburred, etc. After it is warmed up it doesn't want to idle, it just chugs like it is gonna die and sometimes does. i adjusted the idle screw all the way in and even tried threadin them out some. Still nothin. I guess I need to adjust the screw on top more? Also, which idle screw goes on which carb? One of them that came with the kit is fully threaded to the base where you use a flat head and the other is threaded 3/4 of the way. Quote
dajogejr Posted October 13, 2006 Report Posted October 13, 2006 I followed the full directions to remove the TORS. Everything was cleaned, deburred, etc. After it is warmed up it doesn't want to idle, it just chugs like it is gonna die and sometimes does. i adjusted the idle screw all the way in and even tried threadin them out some. Still nothin. I guess I need to adjust the screw on top more? Also, which idle screw goes on which carb? One of them that came with the kit is fully threaded to the base where you use a flat head and the other is threaded 3/4 of the way. Both screws should be identical. Before you tapped the holes, did you file down that boss? It has to be filed down so the nut locks against it flush...and often times you have to take a bit more off so the thread has enough reach. Remove the idle screws, remove the air filter(s)...and look in the back of the carbs.... You should see the slides moving up once the bullet nose and slide make contact. See if it is even raising them. The adjusters on top are ONLY to syncronize the slides going up and down at the same time. The adjuster on the cable at the throttle housing is used to remove slack, (you should have a tad of slack for turning the bars lock to lock)... I'd bet if you file down the bosses on the carbs, you'll get the adjustment you need out of the idle screws.... Quote
odaen Posted October 13, 2006 Report Posted October 13, 2006 Both screws should be identical. Before you tapped the holes, did you file down that boss? It has to be filed down so the nut locks against it flush...and often times you have to take a bit more off so the thread has enough reach. Remove the idle screws, remove the air filter(s)...and look in the back of the carbs.... You should see the slides moving up once the bullet nose and slide make contact. See if it is even raising them. The adjusters on top are ONLY to syncronize the slides going up and down at the same time. The adjuster on the cable at the throttle housing is used to remove slack, (you should have a tad of slack for turning the bars lock to lock)... I'd bet if you file down the bosses on the carbs, you'll get the adjustment you need out of the idle screws.... Exactly. Those screws gotta be damn near all the way in before the round nose even comes close to making contact with the slide. Quote
2003LimitedBanshee Posted October 16, 2006 Report Posted October 16, 2006 Before you tapped the holes, did you file down that boss? It has to be filed down so the nut locks against it flush...and often times you have to take a bit more off so the thread has enough reach. I'd bet if you file down the bosses on the carbs, you'll get the adjustment you need out of the idle screws.... Exactly my thoughts. You often have to take some additional beyond just squaring up the bosses. I take mine down to where the locking surface of the boss is just shy of where the threads that you tapped start. This will ensure that you get the most adjustability. Quote
[email protected] Posted October 16, 2006 Report Posted October 16, 2006 follow the link in my sig , if you did all that right then , look elsewhere for the problem ... Quote
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