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stock cub vs Port Job


ONTHAPIPE

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Would a cheetah cub with no porting or cleanup at all, at stock stroke, beat the hell out of a $400-$500 port job on brand new stock cylinders? Also is there that much of a power difference between the stock cheetah size and the 68 mil? One more......Can you run the stck head on the stock size cheetah? Does a cool head really keep the motor that much cooler?

 

Oh yea.....right now it's a 2006 all stock with T-5's alba needles with 300 mains, and an intake kit with a cone K&N.

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i cant answer the cheetah question but i can help with the head question.

 

ive got a pro design cool head and a digital infrared tempature gun. to be honest with you i think the cool head dropped my head temps about 5-10 degrees. this was measured over a variety of conditions, from rain riding to 100 degrees in the sun, trail riding to spinning donuts in dust bowls and some mild hill shooting.

 

a friend of mine has a banshee and reciently got a noss head, ive shot his engine plenty of times with my heat gun before the head swap. afterwards he got about the same results i did, 5-10 degree drop.

 

they dont seem to cool much better than stock.

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Would a cheetah cub with no porting or cleanup at all, at stock stroke, beat the hell out of a $400-$500 port job on brand new stock cylinders?

 

Yes. Stock cubs have drag port timing out of the box. There are few builders than can get as much out of a stock cylinder as a cub out of the box. By the time you pay for that port job...you could've had a cub. And because of the larger water jackets, you will NEVER get a stock cylinder to cool as well as a cub.

 

Also is there that much of a power difference between the stock cheetah size and the 68 mil?

 

Not much. stock banshee bore is 64mm. You will get a bit more torque...and a few extra ponies.

 

One more......Can you run the stck head on the stock size cheetah?

 

That's two more questions...and yes, you can run the stock head on any motor...just about.

It'd be wise to have it rechambered for better cooling, and...cut for an O Ring to seal better.

If you run a longer stroke/rod and/or a bigger piston (big bore) you'll have to get the head cut accordingly.

 

 

Does a cool head really keep the motor that much cooler?

 

Yes...and well worth it. Custom look, easier to maintain and better sealing Orings, and you can find the some size that works best for your setup....

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Would a cheetah cub with no porting or cleanup at all, at stock stroke, beat the hell out of a $400-$500 port job on brand new stock cylinders? Also is there that much of a power difference between the stock cheetah size and the 68 mil? One more......Can you run the stck head on the stock size cheetah? Does a cool head really keep the motor that much cooler?

 

 

stock cylinders with a good port job are quite capable of beating cubs.even with the 68mm bore and 58mm stroke cub setup, a set of stockers with good drag port and 4 mil crank is still capable of beating the cub.to many people under estimate just how well stockers can run.however price wise the cubs are a much better way to go.i do believe the noss head helps with cooling more than a pro design head and stock head.

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I agree with blueshee...standing by my point of you'd pay more for a good builder to get the same or similar amount of power out of stock cylinders than a bolt on cub.

 

And...I think he'll agree...a cub will absolutely cool better.

 

Plus...a cub has nikasil coating. While some hate it...it is harder than a steel sleeve...and often just needs to be honed to put a fresh piston/rings set in...instead of bore and oversize pistons....

 

they dont seem to cool much better than stock.

 

5 to 10 degrees isn't much better than stock???

 

Were you expecting 30 to 40 degrees or some other miracle??

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I think he'll agree...a cub will absolutely cool better.

 

Plus...a cub has nikasil coating. While some hate it...it is harder than a steel sleeve...and often just needs to be honed to put a fresh piston/rings set in...instead of bore and oversize pistons....

5 to 10 degrees isn't much better than stock???

 

Were you expecting 30 to 40 degrees or some other miracle??

 

yeh i do agree that the cub will cool better due to the fact that they don't have the steel sleeve to hold the heat.however i myself prefer the sleeve over the nikasil.the nikasil does hold up fantastic in most cases ,however get a coolant leak into the cylinder and chances are very good that the nikasil could start peeling.

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yeh i do agree that the cub will cool better due to the fact that they don't have the steel sleeve to hold the heat.however i myself prefer the sleeve over the nikasil.the nikasil does hold up fantastic in most cases ,however get a coolant leak into the cylinder and chances are very good that the nikasil could start peeling.

 

Nikasil is a heat treatment (nickle silicon carbide), it penetrates aluminum sleeves, iron sleeves can also be niasil'd, I belive the cheetahs are still iron sleeve. I've never heard of the coating comming off with coolent??

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When comparing how well different heads cool with an infrared gun, check the temperature of different areas on the cylinders to see how evenly they are being cooled.

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however get a coolant leak into the cylinder and chances are very good that the nikasil could start peeling.

That's totally untrue.... There was a bad batch of coatings from Millenium...has nothing to do with the coolant in the cylinders. Guys on PS report popping quite a few O Rings and Head Gaskets...never to have it flake.

 

 

Can you eventually sleeve a cub if you ended up scoring the nikasil bad?

 

You can do a few things. You can get one unplated and have a sleeve put in. YOu can have the cylinders re-coated in Nikasil....

 

 

I am pretty sure that cheetah cubs are coated.....maybe someone can back me up in that.

 

YOu can get them either way...although from just about any reseller they come coated. You'd have to tell your builder/reseller you want to order one from CP without coating...

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