Ricky Stator

[bodge]

Can any help me test my rs set up?

I have a 200w rs stator flywheel and regulator wired to run dc volts.

Using a pc310 odyssey battery.

Now its been fine for 2 months but the other night i went out and the lights where very dim, the next day i charged the battery and it seems ok. Left the lights on for 25 mins and the battery stayed at 11.45 volts is this ok ?

so im not sure if i have drained the battery i.e. left something on.

At idle with the lights on it charges at only 10.45 volts and fast idle up to 12.30 volts

Im using standard lights and bulbs.

with the lights off it charges between 12volts and 14volts depending on rpm.

 

I have maild RS stators but not had a reply yet with any help.

[RATBIKE0130]

How many watts of light are you putting out? You must be drawing a lot of power off the battery if you can't provide at least 14.5 volts output with the motor at roughly half the normal operating rpms. In reality anything over 55-60 watts is not worth the extra draw on the battery. If you still need more light output start shopping for some HID's.

[bodge]

How many watts of light are you putting out? You must be drawing a lot of power off the battery if you can't provide at least 14.5 volts output with the motor at roughly half the normal operating rpms. In reality anything over 55-60 watts is not worth the extra draw on the battery. If you still need more light output start shopping for some HID's.

 

 

Its on the stock lights front and rear. ?

[RATBIKE0130]

You definitely have something hooked up wrong. Take your stator back off and use a meter to check the wires. If you have two single bullet connectors you should have little resistance between the two wires... basically a direct connection. If you have three single wires the two yellow wires plug into the two yellow wires from the rectifier regulator. The third wire should be black and that will connect to the black ground wire in your system. The three other wires should be red to positive battery, black to battery negative, and blue not connected. You should connect the wiring harness blue wire to the battery positive and ground the negative battery to the frame. Something isn't correct with your wiring.

[Justintoxicated]

You definitely have something hooked up wrong. Take your stator back off and use a meter to check the wires. If you have two single bullet connectors you should have little resistance between the two wires... basically a direct connection. If you have three single wires the two yellow wires plug into the two yellow wires from the rectifier regulator. The third wire should be black and that will connect to the black ground wire in your system. The three other wires should be red to positive battery, black to battery negative, and blue not connected. You should connect the wiring harness blue wire to the battery positive and ground the negative battery to the frame. Something isn't correct with your wiring.

 

 

The blue wire from the trailtech rectifier can be left not hooked up (not sure if ricky stator rectifier is the same), or you can hook it up to the battery to prevent over charge... But if your using a large battery like you have it probably isn't necessary. Nice battery BTW I want one

 

A high output flywheel will help provide more juice at idle as well. But jeez that battery should be able to provide plenty of juice expecialy with the bike idleing.

Edited August 24, 2006 by Justintoxicated

[bodge]

This is how i have wired it.

 

http://www.dunereview.com/electricalupgrade-1.htm

 

could it be my battery thats at fault?

[bodge]

checked all my wires and can not see anything wrong.

can i check the voltage coming from the stator with it running before it goes into the reg/rec ?

[bodge]

Is there no one that can help me out? someone must know there way around electrics?

I have had another look today and i have noticed that the regulator and the wires to the stator are getting mad hot.

what i need to know is how to test the stator disconected from the regulator?

 

 

Bodge

[bodge]

Ok i removed the voltage regulator and put the flooting wire back on the stator ground and conected my stock regulator back up so it all runs ac volts.

All lights work fine so thats the stator that is ok.

I still need to know how to test the regulater/rec is it just a bunch of diodes inside?

Also do these fail a lot? just its only been on for 2 months .

 

Gary

[bodge]

You definitely have something hooked up wrong. Take your stator back off and use a meter to check the wires. If you have two single bullet connectors you should have little resistance between the two wires... basically a direct connection. If you have three single wires the two yellow wires plug into the two yellow wires from the rectifier regulator. The third wire should be black and that will connect to the black ground wire in your system. The three other wires should be red to positive battery, black to battery negative, and blue not connected. You should connect the wiring harness blue wire to the battery positive and ground the negative battery to the frame. Something isn't correct with your wiring.

 

 

Hi i think i know where i have gone wrong!

I just found this info on trailtech.net.

I put all my earts to the frame :baseball_bat:

 

http://www.trailtech.net/ac-dc%20key%20concepts.pdf

 

STEP 4: FLOAT THE GROUND

Many AC systems have one lead going from the stator to the lights, and another going from the lights to frame ground. For a DC system,

the ground must be floated. DC systems require a continuous circuit and must not be frame grounded. The stator must be rewired to float

the ground. You can get a qualified technician to perform the task. It involves unsoldering several leads, possibly winding extra coils (for

extra wattage) and soldering it back together.

 

STEP 7: GROUNDING

DC systems require a continuous circuit and must not be frame grounded. Proper grounding requires the ground wires connected to the

negative terminal on the battery. If the battery is frame grounded it will cause extra voltage fluctuation, prevent the battery from charging,

and a larger load will be put on the regulator making it considerably hotter. Light bulbs may flicker or act erratically and most black boxes

will simply fail to function at all.

Edited September 1, 2006 by bodge