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clutch question


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right now as i type im changing the clutch in my shee i was wondering how 2 adjust the clutch so i wont have 2 take the side cover off again

 

 

 

turn the adjustment screw in the middle of the clutch just so it starts to thightin up then lock it down wit the nut??

 

 

thanks for the help

 

 

Glenn

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right now as i type im changing the clutch in my shee i was wondering how 2 adjust the clutch so i wont have 2 take the side cover off again

turn the adjustment screw in the middle of the clutch just so it starts to thightin up then lock it down wit the nut??

thanks for the help

Glenn

 

 

 

 

what i did was lossened up the center screw then aligned teh clutch arm on teh top of teh case.. align so pointer on clutch arm matches up wit case marker then tighten the screw till u feel it tighten and start to put pressure on the clutch arm at this point stop and back off a little then tighten nut... i then put teh rear end up in teh air and checked to amke sur cltuch was engaging adn disengaging properly then put cover on... its important you do this right it will save u alot of time.. first time i did a clutch i got it all back together had to drain coolant oil adn pull foot peg adn kick start off again to readjust.. major pain in the ass get it right the first time!!!

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this is my clutch adjustment procedure, copied from my previous posts

 

once you pull the cover off, or before, whichever, unhook your cable at the perch, since the adjustment there is way off. with the cover off, you'll see a nut on a stud w/ a phillips head in the center of the pressure plate on your clutch assembly. loosen this nut, holding the stud still if possible. with it loosened up, push on the push lever assembly (where your cable hooks at the motor) until it stops. you'll feel the freeplay and then tension where you almost can't push it anymore. hold it there, and use a phillips screwdriver to turn the stud, you should feel the lever moving as you turn it. there is an arrow on top of the motor near the push lever assembly. when the arrow on the push lever assembly lines up with this arrow, while holding it at the tension point, your clutch is adjusted properly. when you let go of the push lever, it should return beyond the arrow on the motor, towards the gearshift side. tighten up the nut to keep this adjustment correct. now hook up your cable again. you should be able to adjust it at the perch to where your lever has about 1/2" of freeplay, measuring from the tip of the lever to the handlebar. if you can achieve this without maxing out your perch adjuster, you are on the right track. if not, your cable may be stretched and need to be replaced. put it all back together and try it out. you may need to adjust the perch to your own liking afterwards. if after this adjustment the clutch is slipping, dragging or whatever, then you may need to replace the clutch kit or components.

IF you feel like it while your in there the first time, pull the pressure plate off and inspect the basket, and all the plates for wear. if the basket fingers (where the fiber plates ride) has a lot of deep grooves in it, it should be replaced. or if any of the steel plates appear burnt (darkened) or warped when put on a flat surface, they need replaced. if the fiber plates are cracked, broken or smoothed out, they should be replaced. inside the shaft where the adjustment rod came out of, should be a rod about 6" long, and a ball bearing. use a magnet to pull them out, or maybe tip the bike on the side and hope they fall out. they should not show any signs of overheating (bluing) and should definitely not be stuck together. be carefull when putting this all back together because the steel plates need to start at a certain location, and the steels need the bump in them to alternate around the pressure plate at certain locations, or your clutch will not work properly.

Edited by MILO
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