camatv Posted February 4, 2006 Report Posted February 4, 2006 i will take them if he dosent want to mess with them i will pay the shipping! stock parts you can do great things with. jet it right change your oil mix. go out and teach yourself how to ride it. try different shift points dont drop your gearing it may "feel" faster but you will shift a LOT the more you shift the more time it takes tooo shhhiifffttt.. boyesen reeds in modded cages work nice. you can get +5 out of the stock plate. i jsut did a bike ported it myself, fmf's and all the other stuff that was mentioned. it picked up 8 lengths. i 'd like to sell it now. ?? Quote
Fasttoy Posted February 7, 2006 Report Posted February 7, 2006 (edited) stay with stock gearing,,boysen tork reads work good and there cheap..open up your air box,,,drill holes in the lid if you have to,1/2in ,,and lots of them...your stock air filter will work fine,but keep it clean and oiled.shave the head .020 th,its cheap to have done.....if you can get in to the timeing your self and make it adjustable,move the timeing plate about3/8s of a in. to the left..if you can do that,you might want to venture in to the motor to port match the case to the clyinders,,and open up the intake ,,polish up the exhaust ports,,if you do that to it,,,you will have a really strong midrange power,,you will feel a big differance...i had one done like that with a fifteen tooth sprocket,front,,and was beating banshees with pipes...its a blast... Edited February 7, 2006 by Fasttoy Quote
2003LimitedBanshee Posted February 7, 2006 Report Posted February 7, 2006 dont drop your gearing it may "feel" faster but you will shift a LOT the more you shift the more time it takes tooo shhhiifffttt. 468616[/snapback] Actually, it will be quicker out of the hole. The shorter gearing gives you quicker acceleration, but it will sacrifice some top end speed. Learning how to shift quickly should be a point to consider. When I'm dragging in the sand I ALWAYS speed shift. If done properly, you won't lose any measureable ground or time. And technically ssanddemon is correct, you could cut the "center" out of the lid and not have to run a Pro Flow, but to truly, and fully, remove the airbox lid as I was describing, you must run a Pro Flow. I would consider the other a modification to the airlid not a removal. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.