BradleyGZ Posted December 8, 2005 Report Posted December 8, 2005 Stock 2004 Banshee with air lid removed and a K&N powerlid and a dynojet jet kit. Has 230 mains, the dynojet needles are in clip position #2, and elevation is 400' above sea level. The bike will crank up (cold) fine and warm up good. Once warmed the bike idles really good. Has good throttle response when reving. There is a bog before the powerband kicks in. As long as i build up speed it is ok, but if i goose it and the rpms are not high enough for the powerband to kick in then it will bog and then pick back up. It will do this in every gear. But once the rpms are high enough for that powerband to be engaged it hauls ass. Good strong power all the way to redline and still strong when shifting gears(as long as powerband is kicked in) all the way through the gears. It runs awsome except for that bog before the powerband. What adjustment do I need to make to fix that. Thanks. Brad. Quote
Banshee~ Posted December 9, 2005 Report Posted December 9, 2005 Stock 2004 Banshee with air lid removed and a K&N powerlid and a dynojet jet kit. Has 230 mains, the dynojet needles are in clip position #2, and elevation is 400' above sea level. The bike will crank up (cold) fine and warm up good. Once warmed the bike idles really good. Has good throttle response when reving. There is a bog before the powerband kicks in. As long as i build up speed it is ok, but if i goose it and the rpms are not high enough for the powerband to kick in then it will bog and then pick back up. It will do this in every gear. But once the rpms are high enough for that powerband to be engaged it hauls ass. Good strong power all the way to redline and still strong when shifting gears(as long as powerband is kicked in) all the way through the gears. It runs awsome except for that bog before the powerband. What adjustment do I need to make to fix that. Thanks. Brad. 446497[/snapback] Read the instructions, and put the needle clip on #4 groove. If that doesnt clear it up you might have to go down to 220 main jets. note: I have a stage 3 jet kit and it might say a different needle setting, so read your instructions and they should get you right on track. Quote
BradleyGZ Posted December 9, 2005 Author Report Posted December 9, 2005 Read the instructions, and put the needle clip on #4 groove. If that doesnt clear it up you might have to go down to 220 main jets. note: I have a stage 3 jet kit and it might say a different needle setting, so read your instructions and they should get you right on track. 446511[/snapback] Alright. I put clip on #4 position and it did fix that bog before the powerband. But now it almost seems like it is tacking out faster than it used to and when it is right there at the redline in all the gears it starts to cut out and slows down just a little then picks back up untill the redline again then cuts again. it does this in all the gears. Maybe to rich right there at the redline?? I am gonna try and put it on the #3 spot and maybe even use that 1/2 step washer with it and see what that does. Quote
itsshemp Posted December 9, 2005 Report Posted December 9, 2005 220 is stock jetting, yes? at 400 feet, that is basically sew level. I have never ran anything less than a 270 main. I dont run airbox lids, but that shouldnt make a huge difference. The needle position sounds about right now. I would go up to a 270 with a modified lid, and a 280-290 if ya run with it off. Im ride mine at about 500 feet. Your "reving out" might be a lean condition. Be careful. Quote
BradleyGZ Posted December 9, 2005 Author Report Posted December 9, 2005 (edited) 220 is stock jetting, yes? at 400 feet, that is basically sew level. I have never ran anything less than a 270 main. I dont run airbox lids, but that shouldnt make a huge difference. The needle position sounds about right now. I would go up to a 270 with a modified lid, and a 280-290 if ya run with it off. Im ride mine at about 500 feet. Your "reving out" might be a lean condition. Be careful. 446633[/snapback] 200 is the stock position. I first tried 350 mains which is what K&N said to do but that was way to big, it fouled out the plugs in 10 seconds. I am at 230 mains now and the last time I done the spark plug check it was just a little darker than golden brown, and I had also messed with the choke a little so that might be why to. I am gonna goto #3 clip spot, try that and if it runs right then I am gonna do another plug chop. If anybody else has any info please say it. I have been messing with this thing for over a week now tryin to get this thing fixed. I got me two good days off work this weekend to fix this and then I am gonna ride sunday. Thanks. I just moved to the #3 clip spot and it had a bog before the powerband and would cut off at top end. When I was in sixth gear with full throttle I pulled the choke halfway out like you said banshee~ and it took off even faster like I hit another gear. So that means I need bigger jets right? Should I try the 270's or just step up one size to 240's. I dont have an exausht system yet so I am thinking 270's will be a little to big but then again thats why I dont work on carburators for a living I done a plug read with the clip in the #3 spot and the left plug looked good (chocolate brown) and the right plug look alot lighter than the left. Why would that be. I checked compression and both cylinders are at 115 lbs/psi. I cant find any carb sticks to make sure the carbs are sync but it idles fine, dont skip or anything. Any info on why that would be? Edited December 9, 2005 by BradleyGZ Quote
Hilarious Posted December 10, 2005 Report Posted December 10, 2005 (edited) What kind of air filter do you have, other than the overpriced k&n powerlid? The only thing I know about the dynojet kits is they are way overpriced. This is just me but, I'd throw that dynojet crap away and put ur stock needles back in on the 3rd clip, put in some 240 or 250 mains, set ur air screws at 2 turns out and go from there. And dont get in a hurry and forget to put the choke tube back between ur carbs. You can check your carb sync by takin your air filter off and lookin down the carb throats. Push the throttle in and make sure both sildes move up and down at the same time and adjust them as you see fit. Edited December 10, 2005 by Hilarious Quote
BradleyGZ Posted December 10, 2005 Author Report Posted December 10, 2005 What kind of air filter do you have, other than the overpriced k&n powerlid?The only thing I know about the dynojet kits is they are way overpriced. This is just me but, I'd throw that dynojet crap away and put ur stock needles back in on the 3rd clip, put in some 240 or 250 mains, set ur air screws at 2 turns out and go from there. And dont get in a hurry and forget to put the choke tube back between ur carbs. You can check your carb sync by takin your air filter off and lookin down the carb throats. Push the throttle in and make sure both sildes move up and down at the same time and adjust them as you see fit. 446933[/snapback] Right now I just have the stock air filter until I can buy that expensive ass adaptor and a K&N filter. As for the dynojet needles, I like the difference they made. I went and bought some 250 mains (he didnt have any 240's except for plastic ones) and I have them in now, with #3 clip position and it is alot better but still just a little sluggish, gonna move to #4 position and try that. I belive I am getting really close on this damn jetting thing, atleast it is riding better. Thanks everyone for the help. Oh and does anyone know why 1 plug was white while the other was choclate brown? Thanks again. Quote
BradleyGZ Posted December 10, 2005 Author Report Posted December 10, 2005 ok. I have 250 mains in with clip on #4 spot. It runs great. No bog while shifting or before powerband. Still just little hesitation at the very very top end right on red line but I cant shift just before it and it still pulls. It rides good. The dude at the dealership said that when they do plug reads they dont cut them, they look at the metal arm and go by the color of that. Same colors to, if white to lean, if black or wet to rich. Well I done that plug read and I guess it looks good. I probally could go just 1 step higher to 260's (which I probally will but they are closed now). Anyways here are some pics if anyone wants to give some input about, please? Thanks. sorry for blurry pics but maybe they are good enough to see. Quote
Hilarious Posted December 10, 2005 Report Posted December 10, 2005 Good to hear you got it haulin arse. Just my .02 on the plug reading. The way I read em is by cuttin away a section of the threads so you can see the porcelin bettter. For a reading on your mains, you look at the base of the porcelin and there should be a nice brown smoke ring about 2mm thick. If its non existant, go up on the mains. If its really dark, go down on the mains. Quote
Banchetta Posted December 11, 2005 Report Posted December 11, 2005 Sounds like your getting close and doing a good job learning how to jet your shee.. The needles won't control it at wot..so if your pinned, then your pulling off the mains only...if the needles are pulling the best at the 4th clip, then I'd go to the 5th clip and try that....never know you could gain some more pull before the powerband....now that your bottom end is stronger. you can gear it up a tooth on the front sprocket. Let it pull...as for your plugs being a different color, that is not good...make sure you have no air leaks around the carb boots, running one leaner then the other is most likely your problem and needs to be fixed...you could melt one piston...if you can't find the air leak, then you'll have to do a leakdown test where you block the exhaust and intake and pressurize the motor to see if you have a leak... Quote
wesw Posted December 11, 2005 Report Posted December 11, 2005 4th or 5th clip and some 260-280 mains should be close at sea level with out pipes, being stock i take it Quote
Banshee~ Posted December 11, 2005 Report Posted December 11, 2005 The only thing I know about the dynojet kits is they are way overpriced.This is just me but, I'd throw that dynojet crap away and put ur stock needles back in on the 3rd clip, put in some 240 or 250 mains, set ur air screws at 2 turns out and go from there. 446933[/snapback] No offence, buy you dont know what your talking about. Dynojet needles are tons better than stock. I was suprised when I put them in on how much that made a difference. There was a "flat" spot in the midrange that I couldent get rid of until I put in the dynojet needles. Just curious, have you tried their needles in your banshee? 270 main is to big, but you might try a 260. If it craps out at WOT go back to the 250's. Quote
BradleyGZ Posted December 12, 2005 Author Report Posted December 12, 2005 No offence, buy you dont know what your talking about. Dynojet needles are tons better than stock. I was suprised when I put them in on how much that made a difference. There was a "flat" spot in the midrange that I couldent get rid of until I put in the dynojet needles. Just curious, have you tried their needles in your banshee?270 main is to big, but you might try a 260. If it craps out at WOT go back to the 250's. 447538[/snapback] Thanks everyone for there input. I took it to a new track today and I must say it ran very good, didnt get hot at all, hella pull, especially out of turns and sounded a hell of alot better, when I would open it up full throttle, it sounded like it would just open up and had a nice deep throtty sound coming from the airbox there. I could tell a difference when i rode my friends completly stock banshee. So I am happy. I havent checked the plugs yet but I never had a single problem with it all day long! And as for the dynojet needles I could tell a difference when I put them in too. For now I will leave it like it is, I belive it is close enough not to hurt it. And as for the plugs being to different colors, I just aint sure about that. It aint doing it anymore, which I also tried to sync the carbs the best I could like you said Hilarious. Although after I done that, I couldnt get it to idle, unless I was touching(not pressing) the throttle, come to find out, it was that damn tors shit. There is a sensor switch inside that throttle housing. So I unpluged all the tors crap and it idled just fine. Well i want to say thanks again to everyone. Quote
Hilarious Posted December 12, 2005 Report Posted December 12, 2005 (edited) No offence, buy you dont know what your talking about. Dynojet needles are tons better than stock. I was suprised when I put them in on how much that made a difference. There was a "flat" spot in the midrange that I couldent get rid of until I put in the dynojet needles. Just curious, have you tried their needles in your banshee? No offence taken but, I do know a little bit about what I'm talkin about. Not much but a little. I may have to try some of them needles if I can talk myself into shellin out the money for em. I'ts just that i've gotten some dynojet kits for a couple of other bikes that I have had and have not had that much luck in em. But ya never know, everyone's bike is different. Edited December 12, 2005 by Hilarious Quote
Banshee~ Posted December 17, 2005 Report Posted December 17, 2005 No offence taken but, I do know a little bit about what I'm talkin about. Not much but a little. I may have to try some of them needles if I can talk myself into shellin out the money for em. I'ts just that i've gotten some dynojet kits for a couple of other bikes that I have had and have not had that much luck in em. But ya never know, everyone's bike is different. 447881[/snapback] Go for it try emailing them and tell them that you bent your dynojet needles trying to install them and maybe they will sell you just the needles. BTW you have to run the stock pilot jets. Quote
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