BradleyGZ

This is just my 2 cents. Since you have seemed to checked everything else. You say you checked the plugs, did you just look at them or did you actually replace them with new plugs. Both times my bike started poping, it was one or both of my plugs starting to go bad. Try replaceing them with new ones and try that. If that dont work, sorry I cant help. Well, good luck.

just my .02 but check the cable adjustment. See if there is slack in the cable and tighten it. Could be that with slack it aint fully disengaging the clutch.

Thanks everyone for there input. I took it to a new track today and I must say it ran very good, didnt get hot at all, hella pull, especially out of turns and sounded a hell of alot better, when I would open it up full throttle, it sounded like it would just open up and had a nice deep throtty sound coming from the airbox there. I could tell a difference when i rode my friends completly stock banshee. So I am happy. I havent checked the plugs yet but I never had a single problem with it all day long! And as for the dynojet needles I could tell a difference when I put them in too. For now I will leave it like it is, I belive it is close enough not to hurt it. And as for the plugs being to different colors, I just aint sure about that. It aint doing it anymore, which I also tried to sync the carbs the best I could like you said Hilarious. Although after I done that, I couldnt get it to idle, unless I was touching(not pressing) the throttle, come to find out, it was that damn tors shit. There is a sensor switch inside that throttle housing. So I unpluged all the tors crap and it idled just fine. Well i want to say thanks again to everyone.

You said pads are not new right. I would check them and make sure there is still pads left and that its not grinding metal. That could be making it hot if your brakes are so worn.

ok. I have 250 mains in with clip on #4 spot. It runs great. No bog while shifting or before powerband. Still just little hesitation at the very very top end right on red line but I cant shift just before it and it still pulls. It rides good. The dude at the dealership said that when they do plug reads they dont cut them, they look at the metal arm and go by the color of that. Same colors to, if white to lean, if black or wet to rich. Well I done that plug read and I guess it looks good. I probally could go just 1 step higher to 260's (which I probally will but they are closed now). Anyways here are some pics if anyone wants to give some input about, please? Thanks. sorry for blurry pics but maybe they are good enough to see.

Right now I just have the stock air filter until I can buy that expensive ass adaptor and a K&N filter. As for the dynojet needles, I like the difference they made. I went and bought some 250 mains (he didnt have any 240's except for plastic ones) and I have them in now, with #3 clip position and it is alot better but still just a little sluggish, gonna move to #4 position and try that. I belive I am getting really close on this damn jetting thing, atleast it is riding better. Thanks everyone for the help. Oh and does anyone know why 1 plug was white while the other was choclate brown? Thanks again.

200 is the stock position. I first tried 350 mains which is what K&N said to do but that was way to big, it fouled out the plugs in 10 seconds. I am at 230 mains now and the last time I done the spark plug check it was just a little darker than golden brown, and I had also messed with the choke a little so that might be why to. I am gonna goto #3 clip spot, try that and if it runs right then I am gonna do another plug chop. If anybody else has any info please say it. I have been messing with this thing for over a week now tryin to get this thing fixed. I got me two good days off work this weekend to fix this and then I am gonna ride sunday. Thanks. I just moved to the #3 clip spot and it had a bog before the powerband and would cut off at top end. When I was in sixth gear with full throttle I pulled the choke halfway out like you said banshee~ and it took off even faster like I hit another gear. So that means I need bigger jets right? Should I try the 270's or just step up one size to 240's. I dont have an exausht system yet so I am thinking 270's will be a little to big but then again thats why I dont work on carburators for a living I done a plug read with the clip in the #3 spot and the left plug looked good (chocolate brown) and the right plug look alot lighter than the left. Why would that be. I checked compression and both cylinders are at 115 lbs/psi. I cant find any carb sticks to make sure the carbs are sync but it idles fine, dont skip or anything. Any info on why that would be?

Alright. I put clip on #4 position and it did fix that bog before the powerband. But now it almost seems like it is tacking out faster than it used to and when it is right there at the redline in all the gears it starts to cut out and slows down just a little then picks back up untill the redline again then cuts again. it does this in all the gears. Maybe to rich right there at the redline?? I am gonna try and put it on the #3 spot and maybe even use that 1/2 step washer with it and see what that does.

Stock 2004 Banshee with air lid removed and a K&N powerlid and a dynojet jet kit. Has 230 mains, the dynojet needles are in clip position #2, and elevation is 400' above sea level. The bike will crank up (cold) fine and warm up good. Once warmed the bike idles really good. Has good throttle response when reving. There is a bog before the powerband kicks in. As long as i build up speed it is ok, but if i goose it and the rpms are not high enough for the powerband to kick in then it will bog and then pick back up. It will do this in every gear. But once the rpms are high enough for that powerband to be engaged it hauls ass. Good strong power all the way to redline and still strong when shifting gears(as long as powerband is kicked in) all the way through the gears. It runs awsome except for that bog before the powerband. What adjustment do I need to make to fix that. Thanks. Brad.

I'm sorry, i meant to say that it didnt bog out last night when it was cooler. It rode nearly perfect but it still felt like it could be fine tuned a little more. but when it was warmer it would bog at full throttle. Last night it rode good with no choke. Yesterday when it was warmer when i pulled the choke half way out it would bog even more. Also, yesterday after i done the WOT and cut it off there was smoke coming out of the pipes for a good couple of minutes. Is that because I killed the engine at full throttle or something else that might be serious?

At full throttle with no choke it would flatten out or kinda start to bog. When i would pull the choke half way out it would really bog out then. Also i rode it last night when it was a good bit cooler and it rode perfect, it would bog out at full throttle

I moved the clip position back to stock (#3) and it ran almost perfect. Smoke out of both pipes with no choke and it would idle. I done the WOT test and tried the choke thing and it strated bogging. After the test i pulled the plugs and checked them and they are a golden brown to brown. I did do the choke thing so maybe thats why they are brown. The only problem I had was from idle to 1/2 it was awsome but when I punched it full throttle it didnt really bog it just didnt go, i guess you would say it was flat? There really want any power with full throttle but I could drop back to half and it was good again. and the stock jets were 200 mains

Alright. I just did a plug chop with the 230 mains in. It is a dark brown black, which according to the jetting faq I need to go lower??? And and still didnt want to run right. When I cranked up with no choke there would be very little and i mean little smoke coming out of the left pipe and it would backfire a couple times and smoke coming out of the right side. If i pulled the choke out halfway smoke would start coming out of the left pipe and it ran a little better just sitting there and reving the engine and same for full choke but it wouldnt run any better. I could ride around with the choke halfway out and it would run good, but when i hit it and got to 1/2 throttle and more it would flatten out, so i would push the choke in and then it would top out. And dear lord the throttle response is deadly!!! If i so much as touch the throttle with my thumb it would go!! I am guessing that has to do with the needle clip position, they are on #5?!? And is there any adjustments I could do with the air/fuel mixture screw or is that for idleing only, because it wont stay idleing but i never messed with that screw yet, i want to get the right jet in first and then work on the idleing part. Please help. Thanks. I just read something about the needle clip, I can make the mixture leaner (which is what i need I guess) by moving the clip up to 4 or maybe even the stock position 3. Cause the spark plug didnt look to bad i guess, 1/2 side was dark brown black and the other 1/2 side was just lightly dark brown black, dont know if that will help or not, just wondering. I just checked the color on the plug on the right side(the one that was acting right) and it is a dark brown color, the left side was a dark brown to black and it was the side backfiring and didnt have any smoke coming out with no choke and did with choke

the dynojet jet kit, is that just new needles or does the come with new jets also, just wondering, doesnt really matter. and as for the riding i do it is mainly trails and dirt road and roads, sometimes i might goto the mx track but i usally just ride trails. the dude at the shop where i bought some jets recommended paul turner pipes or even toomeys, which they are pretty expensive from what i have seen but my next buys will be that airfilter and adaptor, the dynojet you suggested and some pipes for sure. Well, i am gonna wait till morning to rejet the carbs to the 230 because i gotta go get some plugs anyways. I really do appreciate all the info man. It has helped out alot! Specially since this is my first time jetting. Its not hard just certain things to remeber keep trying different things till its right. Thanks again man.

I believe my elevation is 400' above sea level. and air temp will most probaly be between 60 and 100. 100 in middle summer so average riding temp somewhere around 80 probally. I will most definatly get a k&n air filter here soon. my next buy. And i just got the 350 mains in and cranked it up. I didnt drive it but just warmed it up and reved it up and it sound ok. still would die when it got to idle but was better than the 200 mains. although it backfired out of the left pipe and then i noticed it was hardly puting anything out of the left pipe, so i checked the plug and it fouled out. and had some unburnt mixed gas on the plug so 350s to big i am guessing. I also bought some 230 mains. I am gonna give these a shot next. gotta go get some plugs also. gonna do the plug chop test with these new plugs on the 230s. Thanks for the info Banshee~. Let me know what you think I should do at that elevation and air temp.

Hello. I have a 2004 Banshee. All stock. I bought a K&N Powerlid. Am keeping in the original airfilter for now till I buy a K&N airfilter to go inside. Anyways, I put on the lid and cranked up to see what it would do. to crank it I would have to pull the choke out all the way. Once cranked it would rev good in high rpms but once it got close to low to idle rpms it would bog out. I know that it needs to be rejetted. So I started to rejet. The instruction that came with the powerlid said for a completly stock banshee to put in 350s and move clip to #5 position. From what I have been reading on here, everyone is saying that is extremly to high of jets. I just want some input from people who have done jetting before. I havent tried to crank my shee with the 350s yet because the filter was missing one jet when i got it. it only came with one instead of two and none of the dealerships around have any in stock, they all have to order them. All info is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

i just bought a k&n powerlid for my banshee which is right now completly stock. the directions for mine says 2 different things, 1 part says to move the clip position to the #5 spot and put in the 350 jets for completly stock banshees. Then to the side it says for completly stock unmodified airboxs go 7 steps up on left carb with no needle change and 11 steps up on right carb with needle clip to the #4 spot. I too have no idea why this is, but was wondering myself. Also will that be ok to put 350 in and move clip to #5 with only a K&N powerlid on my banshee? The guy at K&N tech support said it was fine but was wondering yalls opinion. I am in SouthEast Alabama and I belive the elevation is somewhere around 400. Thanks.

I got an 04 banshee and it came stock with the BR8ES. I went back to the dealer and bought some plugs for it and they didnt have the BR8ES all they had was B8ES. I put those in and took them back out 5min later. The throttle response was noticbly slower and i just didnt like them. So I put the old ones back in(BR8ES) and have had them in now for almost 2 years. I have right now an all stock banshee, haven't modified anything yet.

I have run my banshee for almost 2 years using Quicksilver 2stroke oil at a 20:1 ratio and have never had a problem. I still have the original spark plugs in it and still runs perfect. Smokes just a little once warmed up but only when I gas the throttle. I have read alot of posts about what oil people where using and never saw anyone using the quicksilver oil. I guess it is not hurting my banshee. Well, thats just my info. Anyone has any comments about that please let me know.

I have had the plugs in my banshee for over a year now. And when you say the porcelain color you mean the top of the plug where it says NGK R BR8ES. If so they are completly white, no brown or anything. Is that good?

Pretty sweet man. I think, to me, it looks like what they call chicken wire. I had some friends that used that on their cars. They put it in their front bumpers.

I didnt have any problem with overheating when the overfill tank was in the stock position but I moved it anyways to the front and now when I run full throttle, even just for a couple of seconds when I come to a stop or just slow down, it is smoking pretty bad out of the exhaust and is usually hot coming from the motor, if I just cruise around for about a minute it cools back down and stops smoking. What could be wrong. It shouldnt be lean or rich, I havent done any mods except for that overfill tank. Brad.

My friend that I ride with. He got the Limited Edition banshee 2 weeks before I got my blue banshee. There is no difference in them what-so-ever except all black plastics, black frame, black rims, and 200 more dollars

Lowes and probbaly home depot also has this stuff called plasti-dip i belive that is what it is called. All it is, is liquid rubber kinda. say you got a pair of pliers you would dip the handle down in it and it makes a rubber coating. You could do that with the levers. And I wouldnt see why heat srink wouldnt work either. just if you can find some big enough to slide over the levers.