namshee Posted September 20, 2005 Report Posted September 20, 2005 Recently fitted pro circuit pioes with dura blue filter and running no lid. couple of issues i need clarity on: 1. If the bike hasnt run for 1 week or more i have difficulties starting it. - takes 10-15 kicks. and if i want to pick up the revs while idling and cold it dies. 2. the left hand side pipe smokes more that the other one when cold? whee bit more 3. 310 mains in temperatures ranging between 10Celcius and 28celisius sealevel - am i safe or are there a chance of me running lean in the colder temps? rest of shee is still std - i have to be honest in saying that i have never worked on my bike before and therefore are very nervous as my friend seized his engine a couple of weeks ago. mechanic said engine was running lean. Mixture is fully synthetic 2 stroke oil mixed 40:1 with unleaded premium. tks a lot guys/girls - advise will really be appreciated. Quote
noissesboyobyalp Posted September 20, 2005 Report Posted September 20, 2005 change your plug then try shaking your bike back and forth from side to side. it shakes up the oil with the gas. Quote
namshee Posted September 21, 2005 Author Report Posted September 21, 2005 change your plug then try shaking your bike back and forth from side to side. it shakes up the oil with the gas. 416945[/snapback] no offence dude - but that has got to be the most stuid advise anyone has given on the BHQ ever... Quote
hittintrees srh Posted September 21, 2005 Report Posted September 21, 2005 no offence dude - but that has got to be the most stuid advise anyone has given on the BHQ ever... 417378[/snapback] Word!!!!! Banshees usually have a hard time starting when cold. You mite want to check your comp. though. Low comp. can make it hard to start. As for your pipes smoking, your carbs mite be out of sync. Check your carbs to see if your balance tube is still there. They tend to go missing. Just my two cents Quote
namshee Posted September 21, 2005 Author Report Posted September 21, 2005 Word!!!!! Banshees usually have a hard time starting when cold. You mite want to check your comp. though. Low comp. can make it hard to start. As for your pipes smoking, your carbs mite be out of sync. Check your carbs to see if your balance tube is still there. They tend to go missing. Just my two cents 417393[/snapback] tks man. The crossover tube is still there, but the carbs might be out of sync, as i took off the airfilter and played with the throttle - the one moves before the other one starts to move - but where do i corret this? compression should not be a problem - shee is almost still brand new.. my opinion is that somewhere there is a fuel problem? but then again once warmed up, it starts first kick everytime. when i still had the stock pipes on, it used to start very easy - even if not used for a long time. tks Quote
Hilarious Posted September 21, 2005 Report Posted September 21, 2005 Getting your carbs in sync: if you still have the TORS units on top of your carbs you will have to adjust the two, big flathead screws on top of the TORS units. While doing this adjust one or the other until both carburator slides move up and down at the same time. If you have removed the TORS units, adjust your idle speed screws and check your slides. After getting the carbs in sync, you may have to re-adjust the idle setting. Make sure, when doing this, to make equal adjustments to each carb to keep them in sync. As for your bike being hard to start, you may have to install some larger pilot jets if you have not already and adjust your air screws. I believe a 25 is stock for pilot jets. I have 27.5's installed in mine and it usually starts within the first 3 or 4 kicks everytime whether it is warm or cold. Quote
eehsnab2 Posted September 21, 2005 Report Posted September 21, 2005 Syncing the carbs will make a huge improvement.... If you dont have tors there is an adjustment at the top of the carbs with a nut on it. Loosen them up and then screw or unscrew one to make it match with the other. Make sure you give it a couple full throttle pulls to make sure that the carbs will open all the way. Tighten down the nuts once you have the adjustment done. I usually set the idle by the thumb throttle, seems to be the easiest way for me. Quote
namshee Posted September 22, 2005 Author Report Posted September 22, 2005 Getting your carbs in sync: if you still have the TORS units on top of your carbs you will have to adjust the two, big flathead screws on top of the TORS units. While doing this adjust one or the other until both carburator slides move up and down at the same time. If you have removed the TORS units, adjust your idle speed screws and check your slides. After getting the carbs in sync, you may have to re-adjust the idle setting. Make sure, when doing this, to make equal adjustments to each carb to keep them in sync. As for your bike being hard to start, you may have to install some larger pilot jets if you have not already and adjust your air screws. I believe a 25 is stock for pilot jets. I have 27.5's installed in mine and it usually starts within the first 3 or 4 kicks everytime whether it is warm or cold. 417438[/snapback] Tks man, doesn't sound too difficult. Which screws are the air and which ones are the idling i'm learning ----- slowly i might add Syncing the carbs will make a huge improvement.... If you dont have tors there is an adjustment at the top of the carbs with a nut on it. Loosen them up and then screw or unscrew one to make it match with the other. Make sure you give it a couple full throttle pulls to make sure that the carbs will open all the way. Tighten down the nuts once you have the adjustment done. I usually set the idle by the thumb throttle, seems to be the easiest way for me. 417500[/snapback] tks dude, i'll let you know how it goes afterwards. i think the tors are still there.. Quote
Hilarious Posted September 22, 2005 Report Posted September 22, 2005 (edited) Check this website out. HERE It has a complete detailed explanation of your carburators. The air screws are the small, flathead screws, on the left side of each carb closest to the air inlet on each carb. IF you do not have the TORS, I believe your idle screws will be located under the carb cap retention screw, the screw that holds a little bracket that keeps the carb cap from comming loose. Like I and others have said, If you have the TORS units still on your carbs, there will be a fairly large screw head on the tops of them. While you're at it, you should get some new spark plugs and some beers and do a plug chop after you get it running good. Edited September 22, 2005 by Hilarious Quote
namshee Posted September 23, 2005 Author Report Posted September 23, 2005 Check this website out. HERE It has a complete detailed explanation of your carburators.The air screws are the small, flathead screws, on the left side of each carb closest to the air inlet on each carb. IF you do not have the TORS, I believe your idle screws will be located under the carb cap retention screw, the screw that holds a little bracket that keeps the carb cap from comming loose. Like I and others have said, If you have the TORS units still on your carbs, there will be a fairly large screw head on the tops of them. While you're at it, you should get some new spark plugs and some beers and do a plug chop after you get it running good. 417754[/snapback] sweet. i definitely want to do a plug chop - i'll post some pics of them. Want to wait untill the weather is nice and cold to make sure i'm not running lean. why do people remove the TORS? Or is it when you fit new carbs that the new carbs does not have TORS? tks. Quote
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