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Why did the Bashee Blow-Up?


dbkid13

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Where in the world are you people coming from???

First and foremost, you engine oil has NOTHING to do the piston chunks. There is NO WAY for piston debris to get into the engine oil unless the case is SEVERELY damaged.

Second, the crank is not "sealed". The oil/ gas blend surrounds the balls in the bearing and provides ALL lubrication for the crank. If the crank bearings were sealed from the inside, they would fail almost immediately ecause there would be NO lubrication!

Third, all the crap that was bouncing around on top of the piston is almost guaranteed to have become embedded in your crank bearings, which again are NOT sealed, and no matter how many gallons of stuff you flush it with, the little fragments could always come back to haunt you later. And if one of the rods break {caused by a pin-head sized bit of piston you didn't flush out getting lodged in the bearing of the crank}, it usually goes straight out the top of the case or the bottom of the case or BOTH {like mine did}.

The best thing for you to do is check your intake boots for fine cracks and the back of the boost bottle for a pin hole from rubbing cables. And when you get done with the rebuild, stomp the boost bottle to a pancake and get new intake boots and make sure you get a new crank or at least have your bearings and seals replaced. Yes it will be a little more hassle to do it now BUT it's cheap compared to new cases, double the work and money and pushing your blown banshee back home from the trail.

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thanks holyman,where the hell are these people comin from.split the friggin cases do it right. or you will trash a new topend job.oh by the way, i threw the BOGG BOTTLES IN THE GARBAGE TOO.them things are pieces of crap

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i've seen engines not only destroy the cases when they come apart, but also destroy the cylinder and crank. Don't know about most of you out there but I'm thinkin its gonna cost more than $1000 to replace the crank, cases, a cylinder (if not both), pistons, and gaskets. I think I'd just pull the crank now and spen the $200 on crand bearings, and while I was at it I'd prolly go ahead and put the TZ bearing on the water pump side.

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