Holyman Posted August 30, 2005 Report Share Posted August 30, 2005 Well the blaster I'm parting out had a piston go bad and I took the easy way out. Flushed it a million times with carb cleaner and wiped it all out with a whole roll of paper otwels. 6 months later the lower crank bearing went out. Way too much of a co-incidence. What happens is if the small bits don't immediately hang up the crank, they slip around in there until they wear down into a wedge shaped piece and they get stuck in between the race and one of the balls. If you are running at 8000 RPMS and the crank can't turn, what happen to the rotating mass of the engine and motion of the ATV? What happens to the power from the ignition of the cylinder? All that pressure comes on the rod which bends and breaks. All it takes is 1 revolution with a broken rod to completely blow the engine apart. The last anshee I parted out had 1 rod come thru the top of the case and get stuck in the bottom of one of the carbs. The other jug aparently rotated a few more times and blew out the front and bottom of the case. For the sake of a few extra hours and gasket sealer, I'd pull it apart. Here's a horror pic for you... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayfst Posted August 30, 2005 Report Share Posted August 30, 2005 I have blown a crap load of banshee motors, alot more than most of you guys, last season alone I built and blew 4. If metal of any kind went down into the crank I sucked it up and rebuilt the crank, I see it like this, you can spend 200 bucks now and after a three hour road trip, one hour riding and two hours of sitting on the sand waiting for someone to pull you back to camp so you can go home and spend a 1000 bucks thats crappy math, if you what to save money get a savings account and buy a 400 ex. just my opinon, I could be wrong! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbkid13 Posted August 30, 2005 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2005 (edited) Well I have the motor all the way out, who rebuilds cracks around here and how much does it cost?? I am not sure if I can afford to get it done anytime soon because Michigan keeps uping tuiton (them bastards) but I want to get a plan together for when I do have more money and by the way if you blew four motors in one season I would say something is not right, a motor should last at least a couple hundred hours unless you are getting to much clearence somewhere or something. I might go to a different machine shop or something. Does anyone know how to get a hold of that tutorial on how to split the case?????????? Edited August 30, 2005 by dbkid13 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayfst Posted August 30, 2005 Report Share Posted August 30, 2005 I had cdi issues, some nos moments, some part failures, but to be fair I wasn't going for relieabilty, I was going for power. now 3 years later a total of six motors and thousands of dollars I have a " ridable " bike that will run with most drag bikes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheefreak Posted August 30, 2005 Report Share Posted August 30, 2005 Holy, if that doesn't deter someone from just slapping a motor back together, I don't know what will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redlined Posted August 30, 2005 Report Share Posted August 30, 2005 Again, I can appreciate what you are saying. I like the fact that you are talking about being proactive, and I would hope we all would be. But, you can Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayfst Posted August 31, 2005 Report Share Posted August 31, 2005 (edited) I see your side redlined and agree. let me just say the ONLY time I took the measure of a crank rebuild was when I saw that something had gone down into my crank, if there was no sign of that then I thanked the banshee gods and threw pistons and then sat down and reassested my tatic. hows that for a run on sentence. Edited August 31, 2005 by wayfst Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98bonerSTOCKshee Posted August 31, 2005 Report Share Posted August 31, 2005 I just got done doing my top end again, I have used a SHOPVAC with fuelline ducttapped to the vacum holes, this allows me to suck any dirt or debris from inside the motor. Does anyone know how to get a hold of that tutorial on how to split the case?????????? 409736[/snapback] get the banshee clymer it tells all.. Just follow the damn yellow brick road.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98bonerSTOCKshee Posted August 31, 2005 Report Share Posted August 31, 2005 you might also pour a solvent/oil mixture down into the crank area. Don't make me bust the video out of the procedure... oh and take the filter out of the SHOPVAC if you are sucking liquid through it.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Holyman Posted August 31, 2005 Report Share Posted August 31, 2005 OK redlined... I see you like to argue a point. So do I. What you didn't factor in is the odds of debris in the crank causing damage to the individual engine and not the overall picture for everyone. The engine is not designed to run with the debris in there so unless there is NO debris in there, there is a greater than 50% chance of future engine failure caused by debris. On the other hand if it takes 6 years for a good engine in good condition to fail and it costs $200 extra to rebuild the crank to get 6 more years out of the engine, it would take 72 years to add up to the figure you came up with. (12 rebuilds times 6 years between). I'd like to think that this guy will live to be in his 90's and still riding but it's unlikely. Consider too his previous inexperience. He ran at low compression beyond the serviceable life of the parts. Now he knows better and can head off these melt downs in the future. So if you add in a single cost of $200 extra now and plan on never having that failure again over the next 12 rebuilds, he is only spending $16.67 per rebuild for peace of mind for the next 72 years. I'd say that's not a bad investment. PS NEVER use a shopvac for flammable liquids!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayfst Posted August 31, 2005 Report Share Posted August 31, 2005 PS NEVER use a shopvac for flammable liquids!!! 409985[/snapback] you can use a vac in this manner, just let me get my camera first!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redlined Posted August 31, 2005 Report Share Posted August 31, 2005 (edited) OK redlined... I see you like to argue a point. So do I. What you didn't factor in is the odds of debris in the crank causing damage to the individual engine and not the overall picture for everyone. The engine is not designed to run with the debris in there so unless there is NO debris in there, there is a greater than 50% chance of future engine failure caused by debris. On the other hand if it takes 6 years for a good engine in good condition to fail and it costs $200 extra to rebuild the crank to get 6 more years out of the engine, it would take 72 years to add up to the figure you came up with. (12 rebuilds times 6 years between). I'd like to think that this guy will live to be in his 90's and still riding but it's unlikely.Consider too his previous inexperience. He ran at low compression beyond the serviceable life of the parts. Now he knows better and can head off these melt downs in the future. So if you add in a single cost of $200 extra now and plan on never having that failure again over the next 12 rebuilds, he is only spending $16.67 per rebuild for peace of mind for the next 72 years. I'd say that's not a bad investment. PS NEVER use a shopvac for flammable liquids!!! 409985[/snapback] You found me out. I can Edited August 31, 2005 by Redlined Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98bonerSTOCKshee Posted September 1, 2005 Report Share Posted September 1, 2005 **edited** use a non flammable solvent when using a SHOPVAC ya'll crack me up.. I know a few guys that need to use the hair removing technique.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trex banshee Posted September 3, 2005 Report Share Posted September 3, 2005 i would have to say i agree wirth holyman. redlined you say you flush it but there is no way you can get every single tiny peice of debris out of those bearings. why take a chance of ruining your new top end.just spend the extra cash and quit half assing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redlined Posted September 5, 2005 Report Share Posted September 5, 2005 i would have to say i agree wirth holyman. redlined you say you flush it but there is no way you can get every single tiny peice of debris out of those bearings. why take a chance of ruining your new top end.just spend the extra cash and quit half assing. 411192[/snapback] Do word problems confuse you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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