Mis firing on one cylinder

[dbkid13]

So here is a recap incase you dont want to read everything

 

ADDED PICS ON SECOND PAGE OF MISSING CARB PART HOWEVER IT WAS MISSING OFF THE SIDE THAT WAS RUNNING GOOD. ANY IDEA???????????

 

 

 

 

Mods: Toomey T5 pipes and Silencers, boyseen reeds, pro-action ari filter, lid on air box heavily vented but not removed elevation unsure of elevation (ann arbor michigan).

 

Jetting: 280 mains, 25, pilots, 3rd postion from the top on 6 grover toomey needles.

 

Symptoms: If sitting will idel fine and will rev fine with no load just sitting.

When a person is riding slow (below power band) it runs good. When a person is riding hard I seem to lose my right cylinder (though it was the left for a while) and then the bike will back fire shooting out very warm exhaust. If i then ride it slow again for a while it will start running good.

 

Things I have tried:

I switched my spark plug wires:: no change.

I switched my coil with one from another running banshee:: no change.

I put four different set of plugs in it:: no change.

I have checked all my electrical components accrding to the electrical faq and they seem to all be okay.

I have ran high octance gas through it:: no change.

I have cleaned my carbs like 10 times:: no change (all times seemed pretty good).

I have cleaned the hell out of my air fiter:: no change.

I inspected the reeds and they dont seem to be cracked.

I moved my needle from the 4th postion from the top of the needle to the 3rd postion (leanning it out slightly):: very little change cant tell if it is better or worse.

 

I did a plug chop and it passed however it might be slighlty lean however If I went to a 300 I would be real rich.

 

It ran great when I was up in grayling three weeks ago when it was 60 degrees. However since then I have not been able to get it to run right. So the plug chop says that I might be a little lean however since it ran good in 60 and now at 80 I should have a slightly rich condition. Plus the choke trick says that I should not go any richer.

 

So any other ideas (I am about ready to take it to a shop guys out of frustration)??????????????

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I purchased a Banshee 5 weeks ago and at first it ran great however now I am having a few problems. When I first purchased the bike I took it up north and rode and it and the bike ran great no problems all weekend. The weekend following it warmed up about 20 degrees and I began fouling spark plugs only on the right side. It seems to run very poorly at low RPMS (this is where I have been fouling plugs) however if I keep it very high in the RPMS it runs better but still not good. I tore the carbs apart at the dunes and cleaned them up and it ran but not very good. I have T5 pipes and silencers, pro-action air filter, and some holes drilled in the top of my airbox with vents, I was also told that the bike had boysen reeds however I can not confirm this since I have not removed them. The mains are 280's which for the mods should be close from what I read at http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html (which is an amazing tutorial) and the pilots are 25's which I think are a bit small. I have ran a compression test and the cylinders are fine and was wondering how to check to see if my reeds are good. I also was wondering why the right cylinder would run so poorly while the left runs perfect ( golden brown sprak plug with all the same settings). I have been reading a lot but there seems to be too much info for me to take in at once and diagnose the problem. I have changed my plugs three times and it still wants to foul them. Think I should lean out my jetting or possibly flop my reeds to see if they are causing the problem?? I also have those stupid tors on the carbs. Thanks for any help and I am sorry that this was so poorly organized. --------Sam

Edited June 24, 2005 by dbkid13

[dbkid13]

I was thinking about moving my pilots to 30 today, however dont really know since I am fouling plugs and this would be giving the carbs more gas ( I think). I also dont want to mess with the jetting since my left cylinder runs perfect. I guess I am going to flip my reeds tonight (from right to left and left to right) to see if this changes anyhthing. Anyother suggestions would be appreciated. Also thinking that maybe I am having spark plug wire issues so I might change them also. Can I just switch the caps from one plug to the other?? I assume that since there are two cylinders they are timmed exzactly opposite.

[sheefreak]

Yes you can switch caps, will work either way. Before you do anything else though, I just had the exact same problem w/mine. Ended up being the tors, did not help to switch caps either. Just unplug the tors control box under the gas tank to disable the whole system, and that will at least eliminate the tors, if not fix the problem. I am very confident this may be your problem.

Edited June 15, 2005 by sheefreak

[dbkid13]

I will try it when I get home. Thanks!!!!!!!

[dbkid13]

When I went to check my needle height I noticed there were 6 groves not five like I was expecting. It was also on the third from the bottle grove. Does these mean I have after market needles and if so is the jetting about right for my mods?? Thanks for the help. --------Sam

 

 

I tried removing the tor wires are my spark went away when I disconnected them. I didnt realize this at first and kicked the thing until I got a blister on my foot. I then hooked them up and started it and it worked fine then I disconnected and the four wheeler died. From what I have read this should not be happening.

[cb67rs1]

When I went to check my needle height I noticed there were 6 groves not five like I was expecting. It was also on the third from the bottle grove. Does these mean I have after market needles and if so is the jetting about right for my mods?? Thanks for the help. --------Sam

I tried removing the tor wires are my spark went away when I disconnected them. I didnt realize this at first and kicked the thing until I got a blister on my foot. I then hooked them up and started it and it worked fine then I disconnected and the four wheeler died. From what I have read this should not be happening.

382198[/snapback]

 

 

if its a tors problem disconect the liitle black box on the left side of the quad under the fuel tank , that will get rid of your tors system if you disconnect the wires on your carbs it will not run if that box is plugged in

Edited June 16, 2005 by cb67rs1

[dbkid13]

I went riding this weekend and found I still have the same problem of losing a cylinder however now it seems to be the other cylinder, I never switched my reeds so I am going to eliminate that as a possibility and I disconnected the tors so those should no longer be a possibility, I took the carbs apart and moved the clip from the 4th to the 3rd grove from te blunt end of the needle to lean it out since I am following my plugs (there are 6 groves not five like I expected so I think they are aftermarket needles. Also I cleaned the heck out of my air filter so that should not be a problem (though it wasnt really dirty). So the only thing I can think of that is left is spark plug wires and since it switches from mising on one cylinder to the other when keeping my wires the same I dont think it should be that and maybe the stater. The problem I have is when I put new plugs in they seem to work fine but after it runs for maybe 10- 15 minutes I will drop one cylinder. My mods are below and I am still running 280 mains and 25 pilots which should in theory be lean. I make good power when both cylinders are running so I dont think its running lean, and when I pull the new plugs after 5 minutes or so they look like they are running good. So is it possible that my stator is starting to go and is causing my bike to run like crap which results in one cylinder being lost and then comes back. Also when it does this it backfires. So if anyone has any ideas I would be more then intrested in them. I am getting very frustrated trying to get it ready to ride next weeknd. If anyone lives around the Ann Arbor, Michigan area I would be willing to pay someone to come out and help me diagnose the problem. Also my float sticks open sometimes even though I have cleaned the hell out of them and causes fuel to leak from my overflow tube. Could this have something to do with it and if so how do I fix it. Most of the time its fine which makes me think that its not out of adjustment but sometimes it just pores out when I shut it off. I have used like 4 cans of carb clean with out successe of solving the problem. THanks for the help. Sam Edited June 19, 2005 by dbkid13

[9603banshee]

check your pickup coil gapping, if you're not familiar with what it is, it's the small black square down by the flywheel with little circular magnet on it, it has 2 screws holding it in place...if these screws somehow vibrated loose, it might be too far from the flywheel during the revolutions and not sending spark or intermittent spark to your cylinders

[dbkid13]

I will try it tomorrow I just set both float heights to 21mm like I read in some other forums and it seemed not to help a bit. I will try that since I was planning on taking a look at the stator anyways. If i work on it any more tonight I might decided just to push it off the stand.

[dbkid13]

Also does anyone know how to tell if a stator is going bad, I have a ohm meter so I can check resistivity but I dont know what it should be or how to go about checking it. Also any ideas on what kind of needles I have (6 groves instead of 5) and how to set these vs. stock needles.

Edited June 19, 2005 by dbkid13

[9603banshee]

you have toomey needles, if you have the clip on the 3rd from top, that's a good spot, the ohms are in a clymer manual, I'll try and find out for ya, it also could be your cdi going bad too...they will do this also if going bad

[dbkid13]

thanks for looking up that info for me. I also have a 96 banshee will the cdi boxes be interchangable. It looks like on ebay they are the same from 1997 and up so the 1996 would be different. hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm. I will figure out some way of testing it.

[9603banshee]

thanks for looking up that info for me. I also have a 96 banshee will the cdi boxes be interchangable. It looks like on ebay they are the same from 1997 and up so the 1996 would be different. hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm. I will figure out some way of testing it.

383793[/snapback]

the 95 & 96's are different....you can cut the ends and splice them up though...that's always an option as long as ya keep them the same wires

[dbkid13]

Alright its a 99 and 96 but they are slightly different also. I found http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/elecfaq.html today and went thorough all of the electroical measurements and everything was right except I could not get a reading on my plug wires the measurment that should be 4700 - 7100 ohms however I was probably not doing it right, if It was really over 200,000 ohms (the max of my ohmmeter) then the bike would not run at all. Any ways here is some new information the electrical system seems to be all good, so its back to the jetting. If I put new plugs in it, the bike will run good at an idel, then if I give it a lot of gas still in neutral, it still runs great, then I rode it around low in the rpms (below the power band ) and it still runs good however when I am on it high in the RPMS it drops the left cylinder and fouls that plug. I switched the plug wires like 5 times and it had no effect on the situation. Even though I am running T5's, a foam pro-action filter, and boysen reeds with my snorkel removed, I think that I am running rich on my needles or my 280 mains. I am going to do a plug chop tomorrow, my friend lives on a dirt road so i will try it over there. However all my symptons point to rich jetting even though I am running 280 mains, 3rd from the top of 6 on the toomey needles, and the stock 25 pilot jets. My spark is great and consistant. So I think that I will try to lean it out more. I cleaned the hell out of the carbs again today and cleaned the air filter. If my plug chop comes back as not rich the last thing I can think of is that damn CDI box and since the 99 and 96 are different I will be looking for one to test on. But if it was the CDI box wouldnt it be going through all the RPM range or could it be at just the top. I will have more info with my plug chop. I have a Diff Eq exam wensday so I need to stop working on it for a bit or I will probably fail my test. Talk to you guys later, and thanks for all the help so far.

Edited June 21, 2005 by dbkid13

[dbkid13]

Alright, I did the plug chop and if anything it might be a little lean. I warmed it up and then changed the plugs and then ran WOT through all 6 gears(about 1/2 of a mile), when I pulled the plugs and cut them away I saw some light brown rigns around the bottom however they were not consistant around the whole electrode most spots had the ring some spots didnt. If anything (according to what I see at http://www.dfn.com/agservices/jetfaq.html) they might be slightly lean. SO this does not make sence. If this was a lean condition why was it running fine when it was cold and why they would I be losing a cylinder and fouling the pl;ug on just one side. So I am back to being confused. I guess my mains are close however, it seemed to run good at full speed. My needle is still at the 3rd postion from the top of 6 (toomey needles). I switched my coil today with the one that was running good however this didnt seem to change anything.

 

So here is a recap incase you dont want to read everything before

 

Mods: Toomey T5 pipes and Silencers, boyseen reeds, pro-action ari filter, lid on air box heavily vented but not removed elevation unsure of elevation (ann arbor michigan).

 

Jetting: 280 mains, 25, pilots, 3rd postion from the top on 6 grover toomey needles.

 

Symptoms: If sitting will idel fine and will rev fine with no load just sitting.

When a person is riding slow (below power band) it runs good. When a person is riding hard I seem to lose my right cylinder (though it was the left for a while) and then the bike will back fire shooting out very warm exhaust. If i then ride it slow again for a while it will start running good.

 

Things I have tried:

I switched my spark plug wires:: no change.

I switched my coil with one from another running banshee:: no change.

I put four different set of plugs in it:: no change.

I have checked all my electrical components accrding to the electrical faq and they seem to all be okay.

I have ran high octance gas through it:: no change.

I have cleaned my carbs like 10 times:: no change (all times seemed pretty good).

I have cleaned the hell out of my air fiter:: no change.

I inspected the reeds and they dont seem to be cracked.

I moved my needle from the 4th postion from the top of the needle to the 3rd postion (leanning it out slightly):: very little change cant tell if it is better or worse.

 

I did a plug chop and it passed however it might be slighlty lean however If I went to a 300 I would be real rich.

 

It ran great when I was up in grayling three weeks ago when it was 60 degrees. However since then I have not been able to get it to run right. So the plug chop says that I might be a little lean however since it ran good in 60 and now at 80 I should have a slightly rich condition. Plus the choke trick says that I should not go any richer.

 

So any other ideas (I am about ready to take it to a shop guys out of frustration)??????????????

Edited June 24, 2005 by dbkid13