People that contacted me about carriers

[Cotton eyed Joe]

There were quite a few people that inquired about carriers, swingarms and conversions over the last month, and as I promised here is the post in the General Forums, since I've emptied my PM box 3 times since then, letting you know things are up and rolling again. I got my lathe problems solved, and I will have a run of these done tomorrow/friday.

 

thx

[Cotton eyed Joe]

Bizzump for those gone over the holiday

[holeshotkid]

So what exactly are you going to be selling? Complete swingarms or just the conversion kit? Prices?

[.]

you making any roundhouse carriers for tapered bearings?

[bigboybanshee]

He's been making them / selling them all along, I think he was just down for a while because of his lathe problems.

 

Here is a parts list on his website; everything on it he sells...pm him for the best pricing.

 

http://www.dunedevilinc.com/index.php?action=parts

[holeshotkid]

Thanks for the link.

[Cotton eyed Joe]

you making any roundhouse carriers for tapered bearings?

375383[/snapback]

Nope.

After doing some research, talking with the guys at my bearing supplier and such, tapered roller bearings, using double bearings, class 7 bearings etc... are a waste of money and quite unneccesary. The bearings supplied as stock from Yamaha are good for a few reasons I found out.

1, they aren't super tight tolerance. A bearing that is a bit "looser" will roll more free. That translates into a cooler running bearing, and less power needed to turn it. You won't even notice the difference on your banshee for a few reasons. One reason being your tires aren't even balanced. Its an atv, not the space shuttle.

 

2, Cost. You run a seal anyway, and if you replace your bearings every year due to conditions you run, these bearings cost anywhere from $20-$50 less per bearing, and are easier to install being they aren't any wider than about .438-.500"

 

3, For me right now its a bit of a pain to make 3-4 different carriers for different bearings. The way I manufacture these, it would mean I would need a different set up for each style. Too much to keep track of at this point.

 

He's been making them / selling them all along, I think he was just down for a while because of his lathe problems. 

 

Here is a parts list on his website; everything on it he sells...pm him for the best pricing.

 

http://www.dunedevilinc.com/index.php?action=parts

Yep.

I had quite a few people contact me the week my lathe took a shit. I told the people that contacted me that I would put a message in the general section being that I was going to be emptying my pm box a time or two and would probably lose the contact info.

Hopefully I'll be getting back into some advertising which would make things a little easier in a situation like this.

[.]

For hardcore beatings like my quad goes through, tapered is the way to go. Regular bearings arent meant to have up and down play, Once they get some play, they just beat themselves apart and there is nothing you can do.

 

With a tapered bearing, once it gets play, you can retighten it and get more life out of it before it completely goes bad.

 

I understand where your coming from though. Most riding doesnt go through the tortures my quad has gone through in the last week. Went through a set of axle bearings in 4 days. (they were all balls bearings....so they werent the best quality, but still)

[racer]

umm, how do you adjust a bearing?

[Cotton eyed Joe]

For hardcore beatings like my quad goes through, tapered is the way to go.  Regular bearings arent meant to have up and down play,  Once they get some play, they just beat themselves apart and there is nothing you can do.

 

With a tapered bearing, once it gets play, you can retighten it and get more life out of it before it completely goes bad.

 

I understand where your coming from though.  Most riding doesnt go through the tortures my quad has gone through in the last week.  Went through a set of axle bearings in 4 days.  (they were all balls bearings....so they werent the  best quality, but still)

375471[/snapback]

Thats a pretty good point. I hadn't thought of that. But yeah, I guess you could just reset the preload on a tapered bearing.

[.]

umm, how do you adjust a bearing?

375526[/snapback]

 

with a regular bearing once it gets play, you can tighten the axle bearings as tight as you want, its still gonna have up and down play.

 

With a tapered bearing, think of it as a wedge, once it gets loose, you can slide it in a little bit farther and it'll tighten up again.

[rebelbanshee2]

the big problem with tapered bearings is you cant adjust the chain worth a crap. They are so much a bigger OD that ball bearings they cant be off center as much. My brother couldnt adjust enough to put a 1 tooth bigger sprocket on his bike, even when adding and subracting links

[Cotton eyed Joe]

the big problem with tapered bearings is you cant adjust the chain worth a crap.  They are so much a bigger OD that ball bearings they cant be off center as much.  My brother couldnt adjust enough to put a 1 tooth bigger sprocket on his bike, even when adding and subracting links

376005[/snapback]

Right now with the standard 6007 bearing, I have just under .375 in each direction for a total of about 3/4" Thats the most you can get with this particular design. I've compared mine to others and they are all the same.

Like you said, go putting a bigger bearing in there, and you run out of material to put it in, so you have to move it more towards center. There is only about .100 to play with there anyway.