Animalman294 Posted March 28, 2005 Report Posted March 28, 2005 I went ridin' this weekend and discovered that my rear brake locked in the closed position. The heat from the brake staying on warped the rear rotor into a nice salad bowl shape, so which kind of rotor do you guys recomend (cross drilled, the wavy kind) and which brand do you run with? I shouldn't have to change the front rotor's if I change the rear do I, they work fine? Then does anyone have any idea why this happened in the first place? When I first tried to push down on the rear brake lever it wouldn't budge. Then all of a sudden it released from being stuck and now there is no resistance but it is squeezing the rear rotor with the pads. So I may be able to just replace the rotor and call it a day. Was there ever a recall on the rear brakes for the banshee? Because my dad's 2000 also has a bad rear brake problem, fluid just started leaking out of it a few weeks ago. So if my bike doesn't have fluid leaking out of it then the piston in the caliper and the master cylinder are probably fine right? thanks for the help............ Quote
ssanddemon Posted March 29, 2005 Report Posted March 29, 2005 Some guys (including me) like the rear brake to be set 'tight' with just a tiny amount of travel until the brake applies. Unfortunatley, if the brake adjustment does not allow the piston to travel back over the feed hole from the reservior, then the fluid is trapped in the line and cannot get back to the reservior. It works fine until you ride and the brake fluid heats up from brake usage. Then it expands and begins to apply the brake even though you are not stepping on the pedal. The cure is to have just enough free play so that the bleed hole to the reserior is open. Sounds like what you have got. You probably smoked the pads if the rotor is fried, but otherwise it will probably be OK. Quote
XxMeltIcexX Posted March 29, 2005 Report Posted March 29, 2005 And your dads leak probably could have been prevented? All lines tight, bleeder valve tight? Shouldnt leak, never heard of a defect with rear brake.. Eric Quote
Animalman294 Posted March 29, 2005 Author Report Posted March 29, 2005 And your dads leak probably could have been prevented? All lines tight, bleeder valve tight? Shouldnt leak, never heard of a defect with rear brake.. Eric 346770[/snapback] I am not sure what caused my dads problem, but it is actually leaking from the rubber boot that covers the piston. I think he has a bad seal behind the piston and the boot isn't designed to hold the pressure so it leaks. back to my problem - Sand Demon may have something there, the only thing is there wasn't a lot of brake use prior to this happening. I think we were riding for about fifteen minutes when it happened. I checked the reservior and it is full, and I found no leaks from anywhere on the system, but there is no tension on the brake lever. I think I will try to bleed the lines, maybe there is air in it from an time about a year ago when the cap came off at sand mountain (MIA). I know I need a new rotor, but I am not sure about the pads. Any sugestions about brands of pads and rotors? Thanks for the help............. Quote
MILO Posted March 30, 2005 Report Posted March 30, 2005 personally, if i was replacing the rotor, i'd replace the pads at the same time. i wouldn't want to trash a new rotor due to failure of old pads. i use EBC severe duty pads on my shee and my nephew's blaster. they stop great and seem to wear very well. $25 a set from Rocky Mtn. Quote
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