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Widths & Offsets - revisited


sredish

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My wifey bought me some Douglas beadlocks for xmas. Well, I didn't realize they were a different offset until I was at the race this past weekend. I was sitting on it and noticed my ball joints were farther away from the tire. I measured the width and came up with 50.5". I don't want to get rid of my +2 a-arms, so I ordered some 4+1 offset baja wheels to try. If they work good and narrow me up to where I need to be, then I'll use them on the tighter tracks. I'm hoping for 48" or maybe a tad less, but dunno. I get confused when figuring offsets sometimes.

 

The Douglas locks are 2+3? And then the stockers are 3+2? So, would that mean there is a 2" difference in these locks and the baja 4+1s I ordered?

 

Ben, have I asked you your width? And you race mostly rocky desert right, or is there some woods you have to contend with in NM as well?

 

Meat, I've read over your Quadzone post a hundred times.

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I'll hafta round up a tape measure and check it tonight, mine fits between the wheelwells of my truck so I'm guessing between 49" and 50".

 

From what I can tell on ITP's site, yes you're right stock offset is 3+2, so the 4+1's should drop your width 2" on a side from the 2+3's...so theoretically you should be 1" wider on each side than stock (43.3" on Yamaha's site) using 4+1 on +2 a-arms: about 45"...but if you've got 50.5" the new rims should at least get you down to 48.5"...

 

Anyway, yes the courses here have been pretty technical, alot more like a GNCC than a Baja race. Talked to one guy from AZ on a built DS650, and he hated our courses, said they were way too tight compared to his desert races :shrugani: We've run a couple through trees but usually the more technical sections are real tight arroyos, and well a shitload of whoops. Huge whoops. Fucking park a compact car between them and either double 'em or do like Jason does; pin it in 4th, sit back on the seat, close your eyes and hang on :bolt: But none of us have really had any issues with width, Chris (ridingorhiding) runs Janssen +3 LT a-arms on I think stock offset rims. I was using 2+3 rims on +2 a-arms and went to stock offset rims and liked it better, mostly because it felt like the tires were less apt to get jerked off center than the wider ones, but I really could use a steering stabilizer too...

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Thanks for the info Ben, my wheels and tires will be in today, so hopefully I'll see how much of a difference that makes on the front end, then I can pull some shims out of the axle and narrow her up all the way around. Man, I hate hitting trees... :P

 

Later.

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Johnny G. says:

But I will comment on the 4+1 wheel issue. They are the only way to go....the bike handles sooooo much better!!!!

 

Jeff Stoess says:

I'm at 45 front and rear at ride height

 

Laz Sommers says:

GNCC dry track - 47 1/4

GNCC Mudfest - 45

 

But ya gotta remember, these guys are racing real tight, techical east coast GNCCs. You guys racing in the desert @ fast & wide-open tracks or dry\mudless tracks can get away with running a wider front end.

 

BTW I just got my 4-1 HiPer wheels in the mail today :dance:

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I gotta get ya a picture of the Hipers. They're pretty neat. Got black beadlock rings.

speaking of pictures, I seen your 2 threads of your race pictures. Mud sucks, I'm not much of a mudrider myself. Something I'm going to have to get better at. I usually avoid all mud and water on the trails cause my Banshee does the infamous Banshee carb bog\rev when you get it wet. So I'm a master puddle dodger and not much of a mudster :shrugani: . Sucks about the DNF tho. shit happens, make the best of it and learn something from it.

 

My districts first race is coming up soon. Feb 6th and its at a track about 40 miles away from my front porch. I won't have my 250r ready in time, but my yellow 404 is ready to go, sorta. Its at 50 inches wide <_<B)

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In regards to the DNF, I initially thought it was because of the spark plug boots getting drenched. Today, I was resetting my timing plate back to 0 so I could run the Dyna ignition I just put on. When I pulled the stator cover, about a pint of water came out. So, I pulled the stator and looked at everything. My "red" wire off the stator was black in spots and had burnt through the lining. It was grounding out and causing problems, mostly because of the water. So, I think there was more to my DNF than I had first thought.

 

Also, my lights hadn't been working and I wasn't sure why, hadn't looked, but one of the lighting coil wires had popped off and was shorting out. So, a nice big potential problem I found. I think it's still okay and need to clean and resolder some of the wires, but could've been real bad, maybe even close to causing a fire.

 

Once I get that dealt with, I need to figure out why my Cascade cover is leaking. POS I guess, may end up selling that thing and going back to stock or something.

 

:(

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OOOooo so you have a billet stator cover huh. And it let water in. damn. I'v heard of stock ones doing that. Some guys were puttin' drain holes and vent tubes in thier stock stator cover.

 

My Banshee boggs like hell whenever I get it wet and everyone says its water getting to the carbs, but I think the bogging feels and sounds more like its not getting spark.... possibly from water in my stator cover. Well I always ran a open airfilter\Toomey 2:1 UNI and one day last summer I decided to take it off and put the airbox back on. I run with the lid off, a uni in the box with an outerwear and a billet filter plate. I can splash through the water now without it cutting out\bogging anymore :shrugani: . I feel alot more confident with the mud and water with that airbox back on.

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