I have no spark...

[lastlegwarrior]

Ok, i have a 2000 shee completely stock (it's on a fresh rebuild, new pistons, and seals), except lightened flywheel, and stator plate (but the stator plate is set at stock timing). Here's the deal, i know i posted on this topic before, but i've got some more info now. I went home this weekend and messed with it for a day with no success. I have no spark what so ever, i can put my finger on the end of the plug and nothing, i've also tried grounding it on the head and also nothing. At first i was wondering if it was just weak spark and i couldn't see it so i heated up the plugs and installed them and tried a little starting fluid, nothing, not even a sputter. So i was thinking maybe it was my stator or something down in that region, so i switched with my buddy, i took off his flywheel and stator/w stator plate, and wires, i also switched the magnet too. My buddies shee runs fine so his stuff is in good working order, and i still got nothing. So i kept his stuff on my shee and started switching more stuff, i switched out the little metal box right next to the cdi box off my bud's and stuck it on mine, still nothing. then i switched out the run switch on he left handlebar from his, and put it on mine and still nothing. I've tried unplugging all the tors, the e-brake, and throttle sensor and still nothing. The wierd thing is, last week, and yes i know you shouldn't do this but as a last resort week we drug the thing behind my buddies recon and eventually it would roll start (not easily by any means though), it would run, but never hit the powerband and it would sputter and pop. this is my scenario, if you have any ideas please let me know cause i'm running out. Is it possible my cdi box is bad, and also if you unplug the tors or e-brake or the throttle sensor will any of these cause it not to start? any help is much appreciated. thanks.

[kenr74]

we drug the thing behind my buddies recon and eventually it would roll start (not easily by any means though), it would run, but never hit the powerband and it would sputter and pop.

 

I was going to say check your connections but if it ran then you may just be really flooded. I ran through a puddle and killed my bike. Kicked it for 20 minutes and got nothing. Got towed for a while and got it running. It sputtered and popped for a good 10 minutes before it cleared up. Then it was back to normal.

 

One connection to check closely is the plug coming from your stator. Mine had four prongs and I bent one of them once. It was hard to see that it wasn't going into the connector where it should but that caused me to lose spark completely. You have have something like that where it is just not making a good connection.

[stclark04]

my brother kinda had the same problem once. it would roll start after a while then it would run for a minute and just die. come to find out his stator was toast. have ur stator tested.

[Cotton eyed Joe]

Have you checked for a shorted out wire? I had this happen and it was a couple wires shorted out on my exhaust stingers.

It would only start with fresh plugs, and then it ran like shit until I rectified the situation.

[J.J.]

Pick-up coil gapped correctly? Can't remember the actual measurement, I'm at work right now. Take a read through BenBB's electrical FAQ.

[boonman]

.020"I think is the proper gappage. Also, have you checked the coil? Just curious..... Try swapping the CDI's if you have a working bike in the neighborhood. (your buddies) Electrical can be a crap shoot, and be recitified by swapping parts unitll you come up with a solution....

[lastlegwarrior]

well about swapping the cdi boxes i've tried to use my buddies, but his is a '96 and the connectors are different. but i did swap my buddies coil and the wires with it and i still had no spark. Also, just wondering, sorry for the ignorance, but this electrical crap kind of gets me, anyways could i use a test light and touch one of the prongs on the wires that come out of the stator i mean would the light actually light up if i had spark. Or do i need to get the resistance tested, the thing that gets me though is my buddies shee is a good running shee so i thought if i no spark and the stator was the problem when i swapped them mine should've worked, i dunno. Also the magnet gap, what happens if it's set too close, could that be the culprit, because i think i set mine at like .017, just wondering. hope this helps everyone diagnose my problem, thanks.

[zilladude]

Do you still have the key switch? Follow the wires from the key switch to the plug. Disconnect the plug, on the harness side take a paper clip & jump the 2 wires together( red w/black tracer & black). My switch failed on my old Shee & did exactly what yours is doing.

[BenBB]

Like zilladude said, about all that's left to swap is the key switch, the wiring harness, and the CDI. Try jumping the switch first, then swap out the CDI's. You can remove the terminals from his CDI connector and yours and test it (just remove the terminals from the connectors and put them in the other connector, it's in the FAQ below, I know it works because my Dyna was for a '97 and my bike is a '96 but anyway). My money's on the CDI but I would take the time to swap it out first, as there's still an outside chance that it's a different connector or wiring harness problem like kenr74 said...or compression, air or fuel as I posted in your other thread. Good luck.

[ledofthezep]

Also the magnet gap, what happens if it's set too close, could that be the culprit, because i think i set mine at like .017, just wondering.

Should be alright,...I don't have my bible on me but I believe it specs .017-.020; someone correct me if I'm wrong. What's your stator look like? Here's a pic of my 2nd stock stator that went to chit after about roughly 30hrs...been running a RS stator since without any issues.

Edited September 8, 2004 by ledofthezep