banshee_blue_03 Posted April 14, 2004 Report Posted April 14, 2004 I have my project shee stripped to the frame to have it powdercoated. The only thing left on there is the bushing/oil seal that the steering stem sits into. I'm assuming this will need to come out in order to PC it, what is the best way to get it out without damaging it? I also would like to PC the A-arms, but i think that I'll just paint them since I don't want to risk the ball joints getting fried. Has anyone here PC'd their arms and if so, how did you keep the joints from getting fried. If there is anything else I need to do for prep, please let me know. Thanks Quote
94BansheeRider Posted April 14, 2004 Report Posted April 14, 2004 (edited) On the top inside of the seal housing is a hex drive keeper threaded into to the housing. I forget what size it is, but you can use a bolt with a head the same size with some jam nuts to remove this, and then you will have to pop out the seal on the bottom. If you are real careful, it will come out without damage, but be prepared to get a new one. I chromed my arms instead of PC them because on the bottom of the ball joint is a nylon bushing that will melt in the PC oven. But if you want to try then you will have to remove the rubber boot and clean all the grease out. Then I put some brass spacers on top of the ball joint with the castle nut on top to keep anything out of the joint. When I put mine back together I used safety wire around the boots instead of the pain-in-the-ass clip that was originally on there. Hope this helps... Edited April 14, 2004 by 94BansheeRider Quote
locogato11283 Posted April 14, 2004 Report Posted April 14, 2004 just use a straight screw driver to pry the top and bottom seals out. then there gold peice will fall out of the bottom and the bearing will come out from the top. depending the age of your bike it may be a good idea to replace those seals. as for the a-arms, i wouldnt attempt it just yet. there is a guy here working on trying a set to see if its possible to do. he has heard that if you put them in a certain way, the rubber surround will melt, but then reform when cooled. who knows as of right now. is your powdercoater gonna have the frame sandblasted or are you? it has to be sandblasted. also i reccommend checking the frame over for cracks and such. if there are any have them fixed before you pc. if there are any unneccessary mounts cut them off and grind them smooth. Quote
ledofthezep Posted April 14, 2004 Report Posted April 14, 2004 just use a straight screw driver to pry the top and bottom seals out. then there gold peice will fall out of the bottom and the bearing will come out from the top. Rightyo'... And... On the top inside of the seal housing is a hex drive keeper threaded into to the housing. I forget what size it is, but you can use a bolt with a head the same size with some jam nuts to remove this, The manual says you need a special tool. If you don't have the tool you can do just that. I just took a flathead & tapped it a bit to break that keeper nut or whatever loose, then backed it out by hand...pulled all the bearings out in order & zip tied them in order so I know what order to put them back in. My question is....what to use to plug all the bolt holes in the frame so they don't get coated? I've heard to use cork(but you'd think it would melt) or some type of plugs? Anyone have any insight? I may just put the original bolts back in the frame & order a new OEM bolt kit, anyone know where & prices on that sort of deal? Quote
94BansheeRider Posted April 14, 2004 Report Posted April 14, 2004 My question is....what to use to plug all the bolt holes in the frame so they don't get coated? I've heard to use cork(but you'd think it would melt) or some type of plugs? Anyone have any insight? I may just put the original bolts back in the frame & order a new OEM bolt kit, anyone know where & prices on that sort of deal? I just retapped the holes once I got the frame back Quote
DUNEDEMON Posted April 14, 2004 Report Posted April 14, 2004 My question is....what to use to plug all the bolt holes in the frame so they don't get coated? I've heard to use cork(but you'd think it would melt) or some type of plugs? Most good powder coaters will plug all important holes and tape all required areas, you may have to go over this with the coater to ensure it is done correctly. Quote
ledofthezep Posted April 14, 2004 Report Posted April 14, 2004 Thanks DUNEDEMON, that's what I figured; but if it was something I could do myself to save a few buck I thought I may...but I'd rather get it done right & not take the chance, nor do I want to have to retap the whole thing. Bet that was a headache. Quote
locogato11283 Posted April 14, 2004 Report Posted April 14, 2004 My question is....what to use to plug all the bolt holes in the frame so they don't get coated? I've heard to use cork(but you'd think it would melt) or some type of plugs? Anyone have any insight? I may just put the original bolts back in the frame & order a new OEM bolt kit, anyone know where & prices on that sort of deal? my powdercoater just puts bolts in all the holes. he has this huge ass box of bolts and shit. on occasion you might have to retap one. but it would be a pain if you had to do them all. Quote
Meat Posted April 15, 2004 Report Posted April 15, 2004 hey get ahold of Cotton eye joe, he makes\sells a nice little steering stem bearing remover tool doohicky. Its like a big ass nut, with a square cut in the center for a 3\8 ths ratchet to turn it. Quote
evil Posted April 15, 2004 Report Posted April 15, 2004 My question is....what to use to plug all the bolt holes in the frame so they don't get coated? I've heard to use cork(but you'd think it would melt) or some type of plugs? Anyone have any insight? I may just put the original bolts back in the frame & order a new OEM bolt kit, anyone know where & prices on that sort of deal? SILICONE PLUGS, SOME ARE TAPERED SO THEY JAM IN THE HOLE AND SOME ARE JUST CYLINDERS THAT THEY SCREW IN. YOU COULD GET A KIT FROM EASTWOOD, I THINK, FOR 30 BUCKS THAT HAS ENOUGH SIZES TO PLUG ALL THE HOLES IN A FRAME. IF YOU DO USE BOLTS, THE COATER HAS TO BE CAREFULL ON THE AMOUNT OF POWDER THAT WILL FLOW ON AND AROUND THE BOLT. IF IT GETS TO THICK AND CURES AND YOU BACK IT OUT IT CAN PULL THE COATING OFF WITH IT. KIKND OF HARD TO EXPLAIN. Quote
ledofthezep Posted April 15, 2004 Report Posted April 15, 2004 I see what you're saying evil...got me thinking, what if I just got some high temp silicon from the auto store,...like the 1500 degree stuff & use it to plug all the bolt holes? I know they only heat like to around 400 degrees to bake the powder on, so surely it'd hold up just fine. Then when it's finished I can just pop that shit out & put the bolts back in. Anyone?? Quote
DUNEDEMON Posted April 15, 2004 Report Posted April 15, 2004 I'd say talk to your coater and see what he suggests. Quote
ledofthezep Posted April 15, 2004 Report Posted April 15, 2004 I just called them, they'll plug the holes & tape off what needs to be. Quote
wansomordis Posted April 16, 2004 Report Posted April 16, 2004 If i remember right a 32mm bolt head will fit the steering stem nut(gold thing) Just weld a nut onto the 32mm bolt and use the head to loos"n the steering nut.. I know what I'm TRYING to say... Quote
banshee_blue_03 Posted April 22, 2004 Author Report Posted April 22, 2004 I would like to get the hubs PC's also. Do I need to remove the bearings prior to PC'ing or will they hold up under the heat when baking? Quote
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