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Posted (edited)

The purpose of the tie rap is to compress the clutch lever to the point where the arrow on the clutch arm matches the mark on the crankcase. After this point when you turn in the adjuster screw till you feel some resistance there should be no play between the adjustign screw, ball, rod and clutch arm. Well that is what I thought.

 

The issue is not the the lock nut it is that the adjusting screw is coming loose. The adjusting screw is working its way out away from the ball thus when I compress the lever there is no or less resistance than what I initially set it at.

 

The only thing that I thought that I could do now is to locktight the screw so it is less likely to work itself out.

 

Chris

Edited by Chris Yax
Posted (edited)

:o 1st on the clutch perch adjust the cable tensioner in to make

cable loose a possible

2 nd at the adjuster on the basket insert a screwdriver take a wrench

while holding the screw with the screw driver loosen the nut.

3rd were the cable meets the ARM on the Engine Top side

press the arm towards the front of the engine until it stops Hold pressure on the

arm. Then with the screw driver in the screw adjustment turning left or right adjust the arrows until they meet.

4th tightn the nut while holding the screw with the screw driver.

Then tighten the cable until theres like 10 mm of travel at the end of your lever before it starts to grap or desire. :clap:

Get the clucth update kit if you change rod an ball.

Edited by FORMULASPEED
Posted

Formula; This is the third clutch in 15 years and have always followed the manual/your process and never had a problem until this year. I don't see any noticable wear on any of the parts but am replacing them anyway. The adjustement screw is not staying tight in the adjuster so I am just going to lock tight it in and I should not have any problem from there, but I swear I remember that the screw is supposed to float but now as it floats my adjustment is off. Does anyone else hear loctite the adjustment screw???

 

Chris

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