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Posted

Since your this far get a magnet and pull the ball out then the rod if they look ok your good. Sometime the cam were your cable hooks to will be welded to the rod or the ball.

I know you can move it just take them out and look at them to make shure there ok. The rod will be a blued hot color on both ends because ther heat treated but thats normal.

If everything is ok put the new clutch in and adjust the adjuster on the cover.

Before you put your cover on work the clutch lever and see if its working.

Do you know how to correctly adjust the clutch at the basket?

Posted

I already have pulled the rod/ball out, everything looks fine. Honestly I don't know the exact procedure to adjusting the clutch at the basket, nor do I completely understand lining up arrows that are somewhere on the basket. Since someone intelligent is going to help me out here, be kind and also tell me if I should leave the rubber spacers out of the clutch's. Last thing, should I use all 6 barnett springs or 3 hd/ 3 stockers? Thanks

Posted

I say 3 of each but thats me some guys have stronger hands and some have an old lady. :D:lol::dance:

 

 

ok there are some arrows on the basket face hard to see its like stamped on there by a 3 year old. then there is arrows on the outside of the clutch basket cover they must oriantated so they line up. Yor just putting this cover on you will notice if its on wrong because it wont sit down all the way. Then put your clutch springs in.

For the adjustment.

 

Move the cam were cable connects on top of motor (have cable diconnected)so it has an arrow point that has to be linned up with the other arrow on the case.

 

Then at the same time turn the phillips head on the adjuster with jamb nut loose untill you feal it hit the ball on the in side. then tighten the jamb nut (LOCTITE) and must be tight.

 

I am asuming this nut was loose if everything else was not welded together. This was your problem I think. It just came loose.

Posted

No rubber spacers toss them . Fiber goes on first the metal than fiber. Last one should be a fiber then the cover

Posted

the same thing happend to my shee.everything checked out fine.so i took the motor out....................and thats where i am now.when i figure it out ill let ya know.now that everything is apart i figured why not do a new frame,top end and crank..funny how shit happens like that huh?so now ive got a shee in pieces,a hole in my wallet,and i still got a clutch that dont fuckin work. banghead

Posted

I found the three arrows on the plate, spaced apart in thirds. Then on the basket there is one stamped arrow at the end of one of the fingers or something. I guess if i line those arrows up, then the rest will be right? Lastly, should the basket have small notches or grooves where the steel plates have been engaging?

Posted

The arrow allignment is correct you found it.

 

As far as the notches in the basket goes it is normal wear but from the factory it is smooth.

What I have done is take Basket out of motor. get a smooth file and smooth it out.

This what I was talking about earlier in this post if you nothes are really bad your cluch plates could get hung up on them.

 

After this adjust the clutch how i stated above. Then chek it with your clutch lever connected. quarts of oil and your ready to go

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Well, I put everything back together and all is good as new. I think the problem was that I haven't changed my ATF fluid latley. ATF works great for lubrication on these machines, but it must be changed frequently. I can't stress this enough. I flushed my motor with diesel, put some new clutch's/shift star,springs in and adjusted everything. Now everything works better then ever.

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