For Those With Stock Axles

[lincster]

if you have a big problem with it get some red lock tight nuts will never come off

Negative.

I used Red Loctite once and it lasted for about 2 seasons, then came loose again. I just redid it again at the beginning of this season.

 

I want to know who can torque those down the right way? Were did you get the correct tool? You can order 1 for like $60, but holy cow that hurts.

[banshee04le]

I use a big ass pipe wrench. I jump on the end of the pipe

wrench while my buddy sits on the bike with the brakes on hard.

The pipe wrench leaves small teeth marks on the nut, but it is

really not noticeable. This has worked well for me.

I weigh about 205 and I am on the end of an 18" pipe wrench (well, not

right now I'm not, but....)

18" is not really big ass as far as pipe wrenches go, so be careful.

If your 280 and your pipe wrench is 3ft long, your probably gonna

strip some threads....

If this does not work for you, you are not jumping hard enough

or you just plain need some more ass

[dogboystoy]

Permanent fix... Green loctite, the only way that stuff will come off is if you heat the hell out of it. But I personally recommend the Blue loctite. Do you know how loctite works? Once the nut it tightened it creates an anaerobic environment in the threads, this is when loctite cures. You could take a drop of loctite and put it on a desk, and it would continue to stay wet for a year. Even the damn bottles that the stuff comes in are designed to let air in to keep it from curing. If you are interested in loctite, i recommend you check out their web site and do a little reading, all of the information is there.

[SICK BOY]

I bought a Magnum lock nut from Motorsports Outlet, one of the best $50.00 I spent.

[Wheatchex]

Lincster:

 

Anyone can torque the nuts properly with the right tools. You need a torque wrench that exceeds 200 ft-lbs and has a 1/2" drive. You will also need Motion Pro's yamaha axle nut wrenches p/n 08-0155 (suggested retail $35.90) and a breaker bar with a 1/2" drive. Use the blue Loctite (242) or equivalent. I don't have the exact numbers for the torques right now, but if I can remember correctly here is the procedure: First apply a little loctite to the threads of the axle. It doesn't take much. Tighten the inside nut up against the carrier/bearing to 40 ft-lbs. Now holding the inside nut tighten the outer nut against the inside nut to 140 ft-lbs. Next take a marker or pencil place a line across a convenient location on both nuts. Now holding the outer nut tighten the inner nut against the outer nut to 170 ft-lbs. You are backing the inner nut away from the bearing. Now measure the distance between the marks on the nuts. It should be approximately 3mm. If it is more than 3mm start the procedure over. If less tighten the inner nut against the outer nut so that you get 3mm. I'll check the specs on the tightening torques when I get home and edit them as needed.

 

Save your money and get the Motion Pro wrenches as the Yamaha wrench is expensive and you really need two to work properly.

 

Wheatchex

 

Edited 02-07-04 with correct tightening torques.

[lincster]

Sweet, thanks Wheat.

I will order that part.

The procedure is outlined in my Clymers, no problem there.

200ft/lb torque wrench? No problem, I drive a F250, gotta have big tools to work on that truck.