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Rear tires for MX


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Been riding for 20 years in Michigan and have loved my 20x10x8 turf tamers for normal trails, light mud, light sand. But now they are worn out. This summer was also my first time at my local MX track, loved it so much I joined my first race and will be back for more next summer. 

I am limited to about $500 in upgrades per season if I will have enough money to actually attend races and minor repairs. Racing only for fun, not chasing points or sponsors. 


I see most guys for years running ITP holeshots, so I assume thats a great option. But I also see alot of the newer quads stock with radial tires that hook up really well from what Ive ridden on. But i can get brand new turf famers for $75 which leaves me money to buy actual banshee nerf bars(currently using modified 250R to get by) and I need some front wheels cuz I bent those in practice as well as some new goggles and to replace the leaking intake mainifolds. Hence I need multiple things to get back on the track next summer, but I know rear tire quality is key.

So what rear tire is the best for just fun at the track, still running stock suspension but a +4 stroker motor.

Also, since I need new front wheels because my blue labels are bent and leaking, do I just upgrade to red labels? Or is that a waste of money and I should go straight to beadlocks?

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i would stick with standard front wheels maybe red labels as long as you arent doing insane jumps or a lot of really big rocks.  

honestly anymore there are a lot of tire brands that make good tires.  i like my ambush i have.  ITP is just going by the name they built anymore.  others build just as good of a tire these days. 

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 1/18/2018 at 4:54 PM, DDQ said:

 You should be running 9ish up front and 6-7 in the back anyway. 

What is the point of the smaller rear tires and wheels? What tire size would you recommend for front and rear as long as I'm looking at tires and wheels. 

I assume you want a shorter sidewall to keep the bulge down when cornering. And you want smaller diameter for gearing and so you can overpower them to spin when you need, but still hook up when you need? But this would lower the frame height and axle carrier clearance with the ground, which I assume should not be an issue?


Also, what air pressure do you recommend? I was running about 10 in the front and about 8 outback trying to hook up on bald tires. SO new tires I would could go abit higher.

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