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I'm anal but I don't like to see any loss, small intake side leak that minimal no biggie, small crank seal or case mating surface big deal. I see sooooo many of these engines go together with terrible cleaning practices and prep . I'm not saying it's a seal at all but I've seen at least 15 motors test good in one crank position then rotate it and it's no Bueno . I've also seen a motor test good on bench but have a semi bad oring in the head and would only let a lil anti freeze in when cylinder was building max pressure then was fine again. I've seen motors with low static pressure but high uccr lift the head because of a lil deto and cause a coolant interference with symptoms like yours . It could be as simple as wrong needle . Could be 1000 things that's why I start with basics

1- get motor to hold air with no leaks

2- put timing at zero to start

3- new plugs

4- electronics test in your case get a known good coil that test out

5- fresh fuel

6- set slides even with proper cable play without idle screws in

7- install idle screw and set sync to 5 cfm with vacuum gauge

8- make sure exhaust packing is good

9- make sure carb clamps get tight enouph to not allow leaks

10- gap plugs

11- make sure exhaust orings are good by head mount

^^^real advice from a builder. Not a parts changer.

 

 

@Dan - yes that's exactly what I meant about the checking for a leak there.

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