turbowrenchhead Posted May 3, 2014 Report Posted May 3, 2014 I finally had some time to check out some problems on my bike today. The key and the kill were not working. I tested the wires for the kill at the cdi and I had no signal. I pulled the control switch apart and the switchboard had come out of its place. So popped it back and reenforced it with some plastic epoxy. Now there is signal at the cdi. I got the bike to start after several kicks and confirmed that the kill works. Then I tested the ignition switch. I had replaced the switch with a cheap one before the badlands and it still wasn't working. Didn't matter what the position the key was in, it would start but not shut off with the key. The the old one was no good when tested at the switch. With the new ignition switch I have signal but I have continuity when the key is in the off position and open while in the on position. There is a new after market coil in it. I have a new OEM on order. I also tested the plug wire and I'm getting erratic spark, hence the hard starting. I really doubt that the new coil is failing so my gut is telling me the cdi, specifically if the cdi doesn't care if the continuity is backwards from the ignition switch. I'm thinking the erratic spark is being caused by the cdi as well. After all its 27 years old. Quote
wayne_smith97 Posted May 3, 2014 Report Posted May 3, 2014 I had the same issue. It would spark then may not spark again for 100 kicks. It turned my Cdi was bad. I would suggest checking everything from parking brake to wiring harness to pickup gap etc before ordering a Cdi. Quote
sleeper06 Posted May 3, 2014 Report Posted May 3, 2014 I have had very few ever go bad allways something else, coil is suspect if its not oem Quote
turbowrenchhead Posted May 3, 2014 Author Report Posted May 3, 2014 The CDI is partially damaged if it doesn't care about the ignition switch input. There is no parking brake. I'll check the pick-up resistance to verify. Quote
wayne_smith97 Posted May 3, 2014 Report Posted May 3, 2014 Check everything else first. Everything except the Cdi is testable. Sleeper is right my situation was abnormal. Forget the Cdi for the moment and at least wait til the oem coil comes in Quote
turbowrenchhead Posted May 4, 2014 Author Report Posted May 4, 2014 I'll check the pickup and stator and get the new coil on first before I consider the CDI. I have seen plenty of cdi's fail across the board on customer machines. So it's not that uncommon. Quote
sleeper06 Posted May 4, 2014 Report Posted May 4, 2014 I have seen plenty fail also just not much on a shee Quote
turbowrenchhead Posted May 5, 2014 Author Report Posted May 5, 2014 I got the new OEM coil today. I installed it and it started on the second kick. I tried starting it again and nothing. Checked the spark with the spark tester, nothing. I ohmed the pick up an stator and I have 124 ohms on the the pickup and 17 ohms on the stator, within specs. So I and pretty sure that my cdi is no good. Quote
turbowrenchhead Posted May 5, 2014 Author Report Posted May 5, 2014 Yeah, it's the original 1987 cdi. It's older then most of the women I've fucked Quote
turbowrenchhead Posted May 5, 2014 Author Report Posted May 5, 2014 Yeah, it's the original 1987 cdi. It's older then most of the women I've fucked Quote
Larry's Shee Posted May 6, 2014 Report Posted May 6, 2014 I would bypass all switches (even just temp). Add ground from coil to engine. Quote
turbowrenchhead Posted May 8, 2014 Author Report Posted May 8, 2014 Write it down on the calendar. I had a CDI go bad. The new one cured the hard starting and the key shut off. Quote
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