postman26 Posted April 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2014 So I guess I'll go deep in the pocket and get a billet crank 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redline Racing Posted April 19, 2014 Report Share Posted April 19, 2014 I liked the CW forged cranks. They were a great crank at a great price. But they built them with intentions of them being lower hp builds. Then all the people built high hp cubs, super cubs and DM's these cranks held up ok for awhile. But with detonation, lean conditions and high hp these cranks were broken regularly. I feel most crank problems are related some how to detonation. People don't realize how this effects every part in a two stroke. Usually for a bad outcome if not taken care of. I am not saying billet is bullet proof at all. I have broken billet cranks before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RagunCajun Posted April 19, 2014 Report Share Posted April 19, 2014 mind you im only cranking 140psi +4 timing on pump fuel. Thats probably what im close to right now. I went with billet. I didnt feel comfortable going a cheaper route. After reading all these post, im glad i did Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camatv Posted May 16, 2014 Report Share Posted May 16, 2014 the 10's that have to be "assembled" are the import webb's look at them they are black just like the wang cranks.. now i'm not saying there is anything wrong with the webb's i dont know i dont run them. i have a few sets of old as heck hot-rod 10 mill cranks that literaly have been rebuilt 1-3 times with new rods and the webbs are in great shape no problems.. the TDR 10 fordged i bought for 900 has hot rod rods on it and i reused the tz bearing from my old cw 10 that let go. they can be bought with larger bearings for not much more money. from what i understand these use webs that were cast a long time ago in a big bulk deal. the forgings are super strong. i have abused mine quite a bit. the crank m+m used was a wang also BUT it at the time had the fat rods on them with no markings and those seemed to hold up a lot better than the more stockish looking thin rods that are known to snap in half after about 5 mins of runtime... this is just my opinion so take for what its worth. if a motor is built to be strong and reliable and built using high quality parts you shouldnt have to worry about issues with crank webbs or sections failing and needing replaced.. good crank seals that dont fail ( yes a bunch of aftermarket ones fail like hot cakes hitting the fryng pan) strong clutch baskets with strong backing plates that dont break bolt heads off and send the pieces through the drive side seal causing a lean out and motor fail, shit webb sections that crack under normal stress due to being shit built, bad assembly practices that result in center case seal failures causing lean out and motor go by by, using those crappy ass intakes with the import shit boots that leak and the retarded "built in boost bottle" that also leaks like a mad man.. bad fuel delivery practices that result in bowl drain outs on runs resulting in lean out and deto motor go by by. shit carb setups that also result in weird lean out conditions. using shitty cheap o-rings in sealing sections of head resulting in o-ring failure and coolant bypass and lean out bye bye motor etc etc etc to me a shit ton of problems can be fixed or prevented even before the motor is assembled with a good motor package and tuning package.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.