Carb leak

[Coreydgonzalez]

Ok I have a 2001 banshee and it was leaking from the over flow tubes on both carbs. I took both off cleaned them, made sure there was no grime on any thing adjusted, both floats to the proper levels and put them back on. The left carb was fixed wit the float adjustment but the right keeps on leaking. Both fuel screws are all the way in there and the float is perfectly set. It only seems to start leaking after I've ran it and then turned it off, not while it is running. What else could it be?

[sheerider11]

Did you try tapping it with the back of a screw driver?

Did you clean the seat and needle? Is the needle worn to the point it doesn't seal?

[Coreydgonzalez]

No I didn't try tapping it with a screw driver. I never thought of that. What would that do exactly? Yes I cleaned the needle and seat and the needle is fine no damage or anything.

[sheerider11]

If the float is hanging up you can knock it loose sometimes

[Coreydgonzalez]

Oh yeah that makes since. I will try that and give the results. But if not have any other ideas.

[uman1030]

Tapping it will usually let a sticking needle valve seat correctly. Rarely fixes it for good as there is a reason its not seating correctly. Possibly some debri keeping needle valve from seating correctly.

 

Take apart your carb look at the jet needle valve and clean it, also see if it looks worn. The tip is made of viton. After years of sitting in fuel it can get hard and not seal correctly. It should be flexible as its rubber.

 

Could also be float level.

 

Needle valve/seat are one of the few things i actually do replace when "rebuilding" these carbs most everything else can just be cleaned thoroughly. the seat and valve are about $15 alone wich is about the price of the cheap rebuild kits that also include stock jets, needle and gaskets so i usually just buy the rebuild kit and toss the other crap in the parts drawer.

[Coreydgonzalez]

Tapping it will usually let a sticking needle valve seat correctly. Rarely fixes it for good as there is a reason its not seating correctly. Possibly some debri keeping needle valve from seating correctly.

 

Take apart your carb look at the jet needle valve and clean it, also see if it looks worn. The tip is made of viton. After years of sitting in fuel it can get hard and not seal correctly. It should be flexible as its rubber.

 

Could also be float level.

 

Needle valve/seat are one of the few things i actually do replace when "rebuilding" these carbs most everything else can just be cleaned thoroughly. the seat and valve are about $15 alone wich is about the price of the cheap rebuild kits that also include stock jets, needle and gaskets so i usually just buy the rebuild kit and toss the other crap in the parts drawer.

 

.

 Yeah I am going to get a rebuild kit but as far as all that other stuff I already did and it all seems fine except the tip of the needle I didn't really pay attention as to whether it was hard or more of a rubber feel.

Edited March 11, 2014 by Coreydgonzalez

[Coreydgonzalez]

I also have notice that when I take the gas tank off and let the gas that is in the line drain out ( with the petcock closed) and the set it down, a couple of minutes later there is a leak coming from the hose on the gas tank, even with the petcock closed. Could it be leaking into the carbs after I have turned everything off. Because I noticed that when I take the carbs out and put them back after I am done, with no gas in the carbs or in the tubes and start it up it has no leaking coming out of the over flow tubes. It only comes out after I turn it off and wait a few minutes.

[foxrider603]

I think you may have answered your own question

[Coreydgonzalez]

I think you may have answered your own question

Yeah I know but its best to get more opinions then getting it wrong and then not knowing what it is, then end up on here asking the same thing anyways.