Motorheadtilldead Posted April 19, 2013 Report Posted April 19, 2013 New banshee builder, old wrench. Me and my younger brother are putting together my shee outta a blown up forgotten about farm boys wheeler and a shoe string budget. We have most of what we need to put the motor together after having her bottom end junked out by a broken connecting rod. It all seems pretty basic once we got her all torn down but now that we're about to try and bring her back to life I'm wondering if there is anything I need to know from yall experienced builders!? Any advice I can get on things not to miss when reassembling or tips and tricks would be greatly appreciated! I'm confident I can resurrect this honey but I just want to be sure I'm not missin anything a newb like me wouldn't know. Thanx bros, looking forward to learning some valuable information from you guys to make my banshee rip and stay rippin! Quote
Nightmare Posted April 19, 2013 Report Posted April 19, 2013 Get a clymers manual.<br /><br />Sent from my SGH-T679 using Tapatalk 2<br /><br /> Quote
Motorheadtilldead Posted April 19, 2013 Author Report Posted April 19, 2013 I'm very thorough so that shouldn't be a problem. I guess if the manual covers everything I should be set. Quote
toytech Posted April 19, 2013 Report Posted April 19, 2013 there is a you tube vid on banshee motor assembly -rebuild Quote
Motorheadtilldead Posted April 19, 2013 Author Report Posted April 19, 2013 cool I'll check that out thanks Quote
tdod101 Posted April 19, 2013 Report Posted April 19, 2013 This: http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=140912 Quote
dave5.0 Posted April 19, 2013 Report Posted April 19, 2013 Put some sealer on the nuts and keyway on the crank gear. It'll leak air otherwise. Did you get the crank trued and welded? How basic if a build is it? Pipes and a buncha other to fast parts? There's a few little tweeks you couldn't prob make to make your life easier. Get a pancake bearing setup for the clutch. Get a decent billet impeller for the w/p. Ive never had good luck with the crappy paper base gaskets. I started using the composite ones. Never leaked since. Maybe if you have a paper one or singles use some aviation gasket sealer goo on it. Might consider blue loctite on fasteners inside the engine. Check the kickstart idler gear for wear. Those are good for wobbling then spitting the washer and c clip off. There's prob more but I'm drawing a blank. Oh, how are the bushings on the clutch basket? Or u using a new one? Quote
Motorheadtilldead Posted April 19, 2013 Author Report Posted April 19, 2013 Excellent this is the kinda advice I'm talking about thanx dave! I do have pipes to put on and do plan to add vitos dual stage reeds and a boost bottle later. The machine is on its original bore but had been freshened once so I'm assuming most stuff has minimal wear but I'll look into everything you mentioned for sure! I'll be starting to get ready for reassembly this weekend so I'll update you you on the stuff you talked about thanx again! Quote
coryv4 Posted April 19, 2013 Report Posted April 19, 2013 Excellent this is the kinda advice I'm talking about thanx dave! I do have pipes to put on and do plan to add vitos dual stage reeds and a boost bottle later. The machine is on its original bore but had been freshened once so I'm assuming most stuff has minimal wear but I'll look into everything you mentioned for sure! I'll be starting to get ready for reassembly this weekend so I'll update you you on the stuff you talked about thanx again! dont get either. buy vforce reeds and do not buy a boost bottle its a waiste of 20 dollars. Quote
Motorheadtilldead Posted April 19, 2013 Author Report Posted April 19, 2013 Copy that on the v force reeds and I'll skip the boost I've heard that before. Quote
tdod101 Posted April 19, 2013 Report Posted April 19, 2013 Copy that on the v force reeds and I'll skip the boost I've heard that before. I just got vforce 4 reeds from fast $195 Quote
Starwriter Posted April 19, 2013 Report Posted April 19, 2013 There are lots of mods you can do now or do later down the road when you have extra money to spend. The main thing is to build a good strong foundation now. Here are the absolute must do items. Tru and weld crank New seals and gaskets Make sure ports are chamfered Do a leakdown test Check kicker idler bushing for wear. FAST sells a better bushing than stock Make sure carbs are clean, floats adjusted, and jetting is in the ballpark for your mods After you get it running and warmed up, do a compression test to insure you are safe for pump gas and to have a baseline number. Here are some mods that are strongly advised. TM Designworks casesaver Billet water pump impeller Remove TORS box with 3 wires under the left front of the tank and smash it with a hammer. Advance timing 4 degrees. Free with modding your stock plate or buy a billet adjustable timing plate. Here is the link for how to mod your plate. bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=137560 Also, check ball joints, tie rod ends, and check every nut and bolt on the bike to make sure they're tight. There have been many people tossed over the bars because a ball joint popped apart or a nut came loose. Quote
Motorheadtilldead Posted April 20, 2013 Author Report Posted April 20, 2013 thanks a lot starwriter those are some excellent tips I am on a very tight budget though so that trued and welded crank is kind of out of the question for now and most of the parts were putting on are NOS how do you do a leak down test Quote
Starwriter Posted April 20, 2013 Report Posted April 20, 2013 If you're not going to tru and weld the crank, then there's no need to do a leakdown test. It's just going to blow up anyway. Quote
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