QuadMX Posted October 22, 2003 Report Share Posted October 22, 2003 I got some elka shocks a couple weeks ago and the rear shock revalved. I'm barely jumping 5 feet high and it bottoms out really hard. They are zero preload and the rear is set all the way hard with rebound almost all the way fast. I haven't done much with the ride height yet. If I make a higher ride height in the rear do you think it would help a lot or is there something I'm just not doing right? Thanks Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Duece Posted October 22, 2003 Report Share Posted October 22, 2003 I got some elka shocks a couple weeks ago and the rear shock revalved. I'm barely jumping 5 feet high and it bottoms out really hard. They are zero preload and the rear is set all the way hard with rebound almost all the way fast. I haven't done much with the ride height yet. If I make a higher ride height in the rear do you think it would help a lot or is there something I'm just not doing right? Thanks Bob sounds like your rear spring is the wrong gage if its the stock rear spring, youll need a stiffer spring, on the fronts call elka and tell eric your front shocks bottom, he will send you stiffer springs, cranking the preload just raises ride height (elka recomends 9 inches) rebound and compression have nothing to do with what your describing nor does the preload, to use the stock rear shock with the stock spring youd have to cut 2 full coils from the spring to get a 9" ride height but what you really want is a stiffer spring to maintain the travel you need....what bottoms the fronts? the rear or both? it would take one hell of a shock 2 drop a banshee off a 8 foot roof at 2 mph and not have it bottom, if you set the bike up that way it would be useless in every other situation but a real slow drop, theres a sweet spot where it shouldnt bottom and still soak up the terrain your in..ive jumped 70 footers ramp to ramp and landed like i was going over the curb, and have my bike squat on the gas real nice , soak up every hit on the track, you set your shocks up for A: traction and B: the fast whoops on a track...jumping requires timing.if you set your bike up so u can drop it off your roof without bottoming, it will suck on all terrains, i like to go for a great track setup, then when i jump i time myself from launch to landing, when i set it down on a long heuvos type crazy jump im 1 foot off the ground when i land, even if i have to slam on my brakes in the air to dump me down on the ramp, i have a ramp i built that i can put 5 feet from a down hill and just start hitting it.... then scooting it back, before you know it ive pulled it back 70 feet from the down hill....practice...... practice....... practice...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banchetta Posted October 22, 2003 Report Share Posted October 22, 2003 I think you lost me Deuce... Deuce is right about ride height. You want about 2" of sag in the rear and about 1" of sag in the front. Get a friend and measure your shee from the wheelie bar to the ground w/ you pull the weight off the suspension. Now let the shee down and sit on it. Have your buddy measure again. You should only have 2-2.5" of sag. Thats how you adjust the spring tension. Next, if it still bottoms out, then stiffen your compression knob. If the compression knob is all the way stiff and your still bottoming, then send the shock back out to be revalved or resprung like Deuce said......Your rebound has nothing to do w/ bottoming, it only controls how fast your shee comes back up. Too fast and it'll buck you in the ass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuadMX Posted October 23, 2003 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2003 It's got a stiffer spring on the rear already. Just the rear bottoms. The front end stays up pretty decent. I know you can't just set it for big jumps and have it good on any terrain too, but I'm just trying to get it not bottom out when I do jump it. I dunno...I'll just have to keep messing with it for a while til I can get it perfect. Thanks for the help. Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yamahammer Posted October 23, 2003 Report Share Posted October 23, 2003 WOW a mouth full duece not to steal the topic but what would a sand set up be how would it differ? what would you sugest to do on a stock bike to get the most out of it adjustment wise and in youre adjustments above they are for the rear correct what about the front after market wise. Thanks for the info very well thought out and easy to understand Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Duece Posted October 23, 2003 Report Share Posted October 23, 2003 WOW a mouth full duece not to steal the topic but what would a sand set up be how would it differ? what would you sugest to do on a stock bike to get the most out of it adjustment wise and in youre adjustments above they are for the rear correct what about the front after market wise. Thanks for the info very well thought out and easy to understand in sand you need mostly compression, id set my rebound and compression in the 3/4 position probally 15 clicks in front and rear, and those adjustments for mx are for front and rear, if your running stock fronts your only option is to relax them all the way out, they will bottom at the same point, by stiffening a spring all your doing is affecting the top of its travel making all the slow stuff suck and fuckin your cornering abilitys, rigid frames corner like shit they buck and fight the enersha, sand is different because it's not jagged like dirt is, bumps are not as consistant, but your rear squat is important for hook, a rigid rear end doesnt hook for shit, and the lower your bike is the less apt it is to tip or "high side", regardless of terrain, when you drop your bike off a dune you want it to compress slow and rebound slow so it doesnt pitch you off the bike, most times when landing your on the pipe so a slower rebound helps it hook back up......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
364rocket Posted October 23, 2003 Report Share Posted October 23, 2003 i will agree with duece how you ride and jump plays into effect after i put my janssen mx-tech arms and works triple rates with rezzies on i went to the track and thought that i would be able to land a 100 footer w/o a problem i was wrong i experinced the same problem until i learned how to land the quad right for each particular jump for instance when you are jumping a single or just a bump and it throws you up and not out you are gonna bottom out unless you hit the rear tires first but on a double with a nice downslope you can nose the front end down right into the down slope and it'll feel like you didnt even leave the ground you have to really get to know your quad again whenver you do something diffenrnt with the suspension hope that helped Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Duece Posted October 23, 2003 Report Share Posted October 23, 2003 i will agree with duece how you ride and jump plays into effect after i put my janssen mx-tech arms and works triple rates with rezzies on i went to the track and thought that i would be able to land a 100 footer w/o a problem i was wrong i experinced the same problem until i learned how to land the quad right for each particular jump for instance when you are jumping a single or just a bump and it throws you up and not out you are gonna bottom out unless you hit the rear tires first but on a double with a nice downslope you can nose the front end down right into the down slope and it'll feel like you didnt even leave the ground you have to really get to know your quad again whenver you do something diffenrnt with the suspension hope that helpeddamm isnt that the truth rocket...when banchetta mentioned in his post i lost him, i was politely trying to hint on that, with my ramp comment, i think you really need to pratcice how you drop the bike onto the landing surface, good timing does make it seem like you just went off the curb, i dont think any shock will allow you to just drop your bike at 2 mph from 8 feet, one needs to learn to launch on the pipe and land correctly....great comment Rocket Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yamahammer Posted October 23, 2003 Report Share Posted October 23, 2003 thanks for the info this is the best i have read on suspension yet real world knoledge and what it takes to make it work thanks guys (looking back i hope the mouthful comment did not offend it was a compliment on how you explained everything in such detail) thanks for the input on sand i guess the sand absorbs part of the impact and reacts different on the suspension than a hard dirt surface does.(right or wrong) Can the same springs be used for sand and mx just change the comp and rebound and add extra squat to the rear for sand so maybe a 9 inch front and an 8 inch rear frame clearance. What about tire hieght does this affect suspension travel say a 20 rear instead of a 22 so you will have to lower the rear to make up for the tires and get the frame back to the 9 inches of ground clearance same with the front? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuadMX Posted October 24, 2003 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2003 Hey thanks a lot guys...Specially to Duece. I'll start working on it tomorrow once I get done working. Maybe I'll be able to figure some shit out. Thanks again Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banchetta Posted October 24, 2003 Report Share Posted October 24, 2003 I was talking about the comment you made about cutting 2 coils off to get a full 9"... you lost me on that part....Also, I believe a stiffer compression gives more traction, thats why draggers take the shocks out, besides to lower the machine. Did a nice job on the suspension adjusting though. :wink: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Duece Posted October 24, 2003 Report Share Posted October 24, 2003 thanks for the info this is the best i have read on suspension yet real world knoledge and what it takes to make it work thanks guys (looking back i hope the mouthful comment did not offend it was a compliment on how you explained everything in such detail) thanks for the input on sand i guess the sand absorbs part of the impact and reacts different on the suspension than a hard dirt surface does.(right or wrong) Can the same springs be used for sand and mx just change the comp and rebound and add extra squat to the rear for sand so maybe a 9 inch front and an 8 inch rear frame clearance. What about tire hieght does this affect suspension travel say a 20 rear instead of a 22 so you will have to lower the rear to make up for the tires and get the frame back to the 9 inches of ground clearance same with the front? no the comment was right on check, it was a mouthful to say, and im no typest, i forgot to metion tire size, you can go that route for hieght, i run 21's up front, sometimes 20's and 20's or 18's in the rear and i think yes you can use the same set up for sand...ride height is not as important in sand, but for mx and flat track type racing the lower the better.. I myself would just crank my compression and rebound and go for it....and i think lowering the bike in any situation works well although i only ride MX and desert, i do go to glamis and dumont and of course we all ride trails, but asphalt and sand or street drags are not my forte, but i asume i could come up with something decent for my bike in that application as the principals of shocks and terrain dont change providing your running progressive springs over non-progressive...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.